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New Clutch, Pressure Plate, Slave Cylinder -->Clutch Won't Disengage

4RingCircus

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First time doing a clutch, and I'd like to say I'm 99% done... except it's not working. The basics: 1987 4x4, 2.3 Lima/Pinto and 5-speed.

I bought the M-PACT 07048WS kit from RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8139676&cc=1137530&pt=1993&jsn=14. I replaced the pilot bearing, put in the new clutch & pressure plate, as well as new slave cylinder. Put the whole thing back together, and bled the clutch. Then tested: Press the clutch pedal down while a friend tried to roll the truck. Sure enough, it is still in gear.

Bleeding: The clutch does feel spongy, and I can't tell of the slave is moving. This is not the newer style hydraulic line with the quick-connect fitting; this uses an R-clip and has a bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. I gravity bled until no air bubbles came out. Also unbolted the master cylinder and held it level, then pressed in the shaft to try to get potentially trapped air bubbles to go up into the reservoir (basically the new quick-connect style technique used to get air bubbles out). When I open the bleeder screw and press the clutch, pure fluid squirts out; no air bubbles.

And finally: 1) Just cause I'm a rookie at this, I have to say: I swear I put the clutch in correctly. Flat side against the flywheel and the higher-side fitting into the bulge in the pressure plate. See if you can tell from the pic?? 2) Its a 23 spline and the old clutch is 8-7/8". According to RockAuto, my new clutch is 9". But it came with the pressure plate and bolted perfectly to the flywheel. Also, the kit's dorman key fits the old clutch perfectly. So I'm fairly confident its the correct part (was 100% certain until this strange clutch-not-working.... now, who knows?)

Thanks!
 

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2 bronco 11s

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The push rod on the master cylinder should move less than 1/8 inch. If more you will have to bleed it. It must be unhooked from the slave cylinder - throw out bearing to test. Hope this helps.
 

4RingCircus

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The push rod on the master cylinder should move less than 1/8 inch. If more you will have to bleed it. It must be unhooked from the slave cylinder - throw out bearing to test. Hope this helps.
Thanks, but it sounds like you are referring to the newer quick-connect style, yes? The old style simply has a metal fitting that slides into the slave cylinder and is held in place with an "R" clip. With my truck, if I disconnect, there is nothing to stop the fluid from draining out the bottom of the hydraulic line (see pic). If I push the master cylinder rod, it will simply squirt fluid out the bottom. I've done this, but it is certainly possible there is more air in the master. I'll do it again.

Anyone have experience bleeding this style of master cylinder?

74965
 

Eddo Rogue

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Sounds like slave/master cylinder issue. See if the clutch arm is physically moving when you push the pedal. If not, you need to bleed it more. Maybe use a vacuum bleeder.
 

Shran

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Did you allow all the fluid to run out of the hose when you had it apart? If so there is air trapped in the master. Leave the hose hooked up but unbolt the master from the firewall and tilt it so that it's flat - the way these are attached lets air get trapped in one end. You will have to remove the push rod from the clutch pedal in order to do this.

Let it gravity bleed - I would run 5 or more reservoirs of fluid through and take a wrench or something and lightly tap along the hose and master cylinder to see if you can get air bubbles coming up through the reservoir as it's bleeding.

These are really difficult to bleed if they run dry as you have discovered... it is best to plug off the end of the hose when you pull it out of the slave cylinder to prevent this from happening.
 

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