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rangerluver

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As in Dearborn, Mich? In all technicality I live in Dearborn Heights, so if I could bs with him that would be awesome.
Hey, maybe someone should show her how to PM someone.


(Hint hint)
 

rangerluver

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As in Dearborn, Mich? In all technicality I live in Dearborn Heights, so if I could bs with him that would be awesome.
And hey, welcome to the site. I have been here for a while, lurking longer than I have been a member.

Also, I used to live in Pontiac and work at the Ford Rouge plant (old Mustang Plant where they now make the F-150) but I live in Louisiana now I can't be much help...sorry.
 
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Earl43P

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To send a member a PM, simply click on their username and a menu will appear.

The second line lets you send a PM which they will see (a pop-up appears) when they logon.
 

rcwc28

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on my old 2.9 i had a bad intake manifold gasket once i replaced it it ran fine
id try checking that good luck and welcome to trs these guys know alot and are very helpful .
 

ranger_mclaren

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--weezl--

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just because it hasn't been mentioned, is it possible that the plugs are soaked with carbon and gas (carbon from combustion chamber or intake) and not oil?

not that i don't believe you, but it seems odd to me that 2 are soaked in oil, the rest are clean, and those 2 aren't firing...

i forget what you said, is the cap new? what about wires? those 2 wires could be dead, or those 2 plugs on the cap
 

Ms. Bennett

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Thank you ranger_mclaren and yes weezl, the wires are new the plugs and cap are new as well. When I changed plugs 1 & 4, not only did I use my sense of smell to find out which fluid was covering them but I also had about ten people check it out and so far everyone has agreed that it is oil. But I do believe that I am getting to much fuel to the regulator. I have been on a mad search hunt for the fuel regulator tester and once I get a hold of one I will post the test results for your guys' opinion.
 

BlackBII

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JayFX4 wont be any help, he's pretty much worthless. Ask Mark_88, he'll tell ya.

Once you test the fuel pressure, let us know what the psi is at idle AND while driving....that can get tricky, I know, But the thing about fuel pressure is though, is that having high PSI will cause the motor to run rich, but in every cylinder...not just 1 and 4.

Could you maybe post of video of the truck idling? That may help, so we can see it running.

While it is idling, pull off one of the spark plug wires, and see if the idle changes and gets more rough. If it does, then you know that that cylinder is in fact firing correctly. If 1 and 4 are the bad ones, then pulling their wires off shouldn't make much of a difference in the idle.


Don't have a mechanic friend that will test the fuel pressure for free? It doesn't take more than 5 min to do...

You could make your own pressure gauge easily. All you need is something to attach to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and a pressure gauge and some hose.

http://www.amazon.com/Long-Flexible-Lock-Tire-Chuck/dp/B0039ZJ3HE/ref=pd_sim_auto_2

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100111543/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
 
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Mark_88

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Welcome Ms Bennett...it appears you have plenty of great advice already...and you also have BBII tossing around his schrader valve...

I'd offer whatever help I can but, unfortunately, this is Wednesday and all I can say is welcome to the site...Thursdays aren't good for me either...especially when you're talking fuel injection...but ask me anything about plankton or computers...and I will show you a real picture of BBII in the nude...well, he did have his schrader valve sort of covered...
 
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kimcrwbr1

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Get the engine hot and pull 1/2 a can of seafoam thru the brake booster vacuum line. As soon as it is in the engine turn it off and let it sit for an hour. Then start it and run it between 2500 and 3000 rpm until the smoke show stops. You may have carbon buildup on the valves and heads. And then put a new PCV valve in there if you havent and proceed with the diagnostic. Eliminate the variables I always start with the cheap parts first and you need to start showing results, compression numbers, vacuum readings, fuel pressures and codes.
 

--weezl--

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While it is idling, pull off one of the spark plug wires, and see if the idle changes and gets more rough. If it does, then you know that that cylinder is in fact firing correctly. If 1 and 4 are the bad ones, then pulling their wires off shouldn't make much of a difference in the idle.
eec-iv has a self test for this, not sure what computer system she has...
 

RatDog8o8

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Sent you some pix of my 2.9, hope they help a bit!
 

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