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Needing 4.0 Supercharger Info

anupaum

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Nice after looking all these years they're right in my back yard
i'm taking a drive over there on monday or tuesday
I'm sure you won't be disappointed. :icon_bounceblue:
 


downer

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another option is an m90 out of an 95-97 jaguar xjr, may be other years not sure. shorter snout if that helps you. this is basically what i have, but i have yet to install it. i don't have factory a/c, so i'm trying to find a way to intercool with this setup. they are usually a bit more money.
$_577.jpg
$_57.jpg
$_5777.jpg
 

RavoHimself

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I just installed my moddbox supercharger. i put it in my build thread in my signiture. relatively easy install. possibly my only suggestion on the kit would be to angle the intake tube on the manifold more so you dont have to bend it around the oil fill and get an extension. other than that i'm extremely pleased with this bolt on kit!
 

AllanD

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I have a pair of Eaton M90's sitting here, one out of an '89 Cougar and the other?, I've always thought an M62 off of a GM would be a better match for the 4.0OHV, but I can see underdriving the M90...

Though I'll warn people to be "Nice" to the M5OD-R1 as I have already snapped an output shaft off of one without a supercharger...
 

PlumCrazy

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^The BBK setup uses an M62. It has one of the smallest pulleys available and hardly makes 5 psi. The IATs are less than steller with the little fella working so hard.

Sent from XT907 using Crapatalk
 

92RangerDanger

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Vortech.

1992 Ford ranger xlt 4.0l ohv
With current pulley seeing 3lbs boost!
Runs great! The piping in picture is just mock up... Waiting for proper peices!
Stock injectors stock maf
Vortech v1 s-trim
Vortech 12:1 fmu
eBay bov
Aem wideband
Digital boost gauge
255 walbro pump
Spec stage 2 clutch!
No check engine, pulls hard, no tune!
Only thing is I'm surging a little at idle, and running really rich at idle!
Driving is great tho!
 

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92RangerDanger

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Air filter, maf, charger, No bov ....
Runs likes shit.

Air filter, Maf , charger , bov then throttle body. ...
Runs Good but rich at idle and not smooth at low rpm driving!

Airfilter, charger, bov, Maf just before throttle body ...
Runs amazing, not as rich at idle and very smooth driving at all rpm, air/fuel good!

No tune, pulls hard, runs great.
I have 317,000km

Now running 5lbs boost.
 

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86merc5.0

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My 94 Ranger ( 2wd/ext cab/4.0 ohv/5 speed/ Zexel Torsen diff/275-40-17 BFG kdws's ) received a Vortech supercharger kit back in the day, I currently have over 385,000 miles on this truck & have only replaced 2 thermostats & replaced the clutch & serpentine belt tensioner. this truck has never been babied ( I kept a spare 4.0 from an 5.0 conversion/ just in case I blew it up/ I knew Ford warranty would never cover the repair ) From memory there was no issue with the install ( our shop was a Vortech distributor ) I had installed a few kits by then ( Mustang/Corvette & 1 on a Ferrari 308 [ it kept blowing up it's Paxton ] }. Best suggestion was using high quality lines for the oil feed & drain & on the drain side to the pan use lots of grease on the bit to drill the hole in the pan ( if your not removing the pan ) then use brake clean ( use the red straw bend 180 degrees ) to spray around the new hole, drain engine oil ( that way no metal shavings were in oil pan ). The truck was very fast ( highway trips were phenomenal, got great mileage, never overheated ( Florida/Texas/Arizona ) loaded-up road trips). I know most people used the roots style supercharger systems, ( That's what is going on my newly acquired 11 ranger --see Modbox system ). The truck ran on 89 octane in summer & 87 in colder months, never detonated, pulled trailers great. I did replace the engine mounts at 90 ish thousand miles, the intake tube was starting to rub on the bottom of the hood. I could post the install manual if that would help, I have seen it listed on there web site. The truck had boost right off idle & pulled through the rpm range, no lag it just moved out, the blower whine sound was great ( moving forward in traffic or parking lots, you would see gearheads/hotrodders turning there heads looking for the source of the supercharger whine ).
 
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JakeSRE

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Hey guys. I have a 96 4wd single cab with a 4L and Auto. I ran across this video with an M-62 Eaton install.
I have a M-90 off of a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Does anyone sharper than me know if all the sensor swaps included in the above video will work on the M-90? I know the Intake and throttle body are on the drivers side on the M-90, but am unaware of other differences. What are you guys doing for upper plenum/supercharger adaptors? Just cutting a stock upper intake above the flange, and welding on a short plenum box/supercharger adaptor plate? Doesn't seem too hard to do.

I am an automotive engine machinist/engine builder. I can tell you guys this. The 4L heads really need hard exhaust seats installed before they crack.

The seats on the 3L and 4L heads were only induction or flame hardened cast iron. This was not hard enough, so eventually the valve would pound the seat WAY down into the head. Sometimes I've even seen them below the surface of the chamber. When you install the seats called for in the SBI or Qualcast catalogs the I.D. of the seats is a fair amount larger than the throat in the exhaust port. I have done many of these heads over the years. If you open up the throat and bowl area to match the new seats, then roll the SSR (Short side radius) or "Short turn" they will pick up a ton of power with minimal "port work". This is just a basic throat and bowl blend, literally about 10 minutes on each port with a flame shaped carbide. You do not have to get crazy, just blend what's there. I have had customers call me after re-installing the heads and they are AMAZED at how much more responsive the engine is. Of course, the seats were usually pounded in causing poor performance also, but the minimal blend job really helps as the throat percentage was really small on the 3L and 4L exhaust ports.

You can do the same in the intake throats/bowls/SSR. Use an expander (looks like a compas for drawing circles) and a caliper to measure the throat percentage. Play it safe and don't go over 90%. 91% is ideal, but if you get to 92% you have destroyed the port, and it will not transition well into the valve job. It's best to have your seats installed first, have the machine shop cut a 35/45/R8 (radius) profile on your exhaust seats, and use a 35/45/65/75 4 angle cutter blade/profile on the intake side. A radius intake seat will kill power due to the fact that it sheers fuel out of the A/F mixture and results in lost atomization, pulls the fuel out of suspension, and results in much larger fuel droplets.

Just a few tips on the heads in exchange for some info on the M-90 swap.

Thanks!
Jake
 

holyford86

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Hey guys. I have a 96 4wd single cab with a 4L and Auto. I ran across this video with an M-62 Eaton install.
I have a M-90 off of a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Does anyone sharper than me know if all the sensor swaps included in the above video will work on the M-90? I know the Intake and throttle body are on the drivers side on the M-90, but am unaware of other differences. What are you guys doing for upper plenum/supercharger adaptors? Just cutting a stock upper intake above the flange, and welding on a short plenum box/supercharger adaptor plate? Doesn't seem too hard to do.

I am an automotive engine machinist/engine builder. I can tell you guys this. The 4L heads really need hard exhaust seats installed before they crack.

The seats on the 3L and 4L heads were only induction or flame hardened cast iron. This was not hard enough, so eventually the valve would pound the seat WAY down into the head. Sometimes I've even seen them below the surface of the chamber. When you install the seats called for in the SBI or Qualcast catalogs the I.D. of the seats is a fair amount larger than the throat in the exhaust port. I have done many of these heads over the years. If you open up the throat and bowl area to match the new seats, then roll the SSR (Short side radius) or "Short turn" they will pick up a ton of power with minimal "port work". This is just a basic throat and bowl blend, literally about 10 minutes on each port with a flame shaped carbide. You do not have to get crazy, just blend what's there. I have had customers call me after re-installing the heads and they are AMAZED at how much more responsive the engine is. Of course, the seats were usually pounded in causing poor performance also, but the minimal blend job really helps as the throat percentage was really small on the 3L and 4L exhaust ports.

You can do the same in the intake throats/bowls/SSR. Use an expander (looks like a compas for drawing circles) and a caliper to measure the throat percentage. Play it safe and don't go over 90%. 91% is ideal, but if you get to 92% you have destroyed the port, and it will not transition well into the valve job. It's best to have your seats installed first, have the machine shop cut a 35/45/R8 (radius) profile on your exhaust seats, and use a 35/45/65/75 4 angle cutter blade/profile on the intake side. A radius intake seat will kill power due to the fact that it sheers fuel out of the A/F mixture and results in lost atomization, pulls the fuel out of suspension, and results in much larger fuel droplets.

Just a few tips on the heads in exchange for some info on the M-90 swap.

Thanks!
Jake
That's my truck and my video, haha. I've done a write up on the whole thing in this sub forum, let me know if you've got any questions. I know the 4.0 heads are a weak point and that sounds like sound advice to me (care to do some pro bono machine work?) and I may do that in the future should I ever run into issues with the setup
 

rubydist

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I put the Moddbox kit on my 09 FX4 this fall.

69626



Overall, the kit is well designed and well executed, and the instructions are pretty clear in most respects.

There are a couple of details that I think they should have addressed:
1. Using the Ranger EGR valve results in the extension tube pushing on the coil packs. I fixed this by obtaining a Mustang EGR valve (as shown in the photo) which has the intake port oriented to the front rather than to the driver side.
2. The throttle body is about half an inch farther to the passenger side of the vehicle than it needs to be. This results in the tps sensor being smashed up against the heater core hose (you can see that in the photo) and the iac being right up against the heater housing (hidden in the photo). This will make r/r of either of those parts fairly complex as the whole intake to the blower needs to be removed to access either. Their instructions do not clearly state that the electrical connector must be on the iac before you install the intake piece, so I got to do that part twice.
3. The air intake hose runs right over the oil inlet. This is not a huge issue for me since my engine thankfully does not use oil, so I can take the intake hose loose a couple of times a year when I change oil, but if the throttle body were angled as suggested in one of the posts above, that could be avoided.

Given the complexity of the whole system, those are fairly minor concerns and overall I give it an A- for design and execution. I had the RPCaster kit on my 03 FX4 back 15 years ago or so, and this is much cleaner and better executed imho, and it appears it will provide more power for the same boost level due to smoother flowing air into and out of the blower.

The pully I have on the blower generates 6 psi boost here at 5000-6000 feet elevation, and it makes a pretty significant difference in performance. The truck was kind of a slug in factory trim given the lack of air up here, and with the blower its perfectly adequate, but will only feel like a race car compared to a 3.0 Ranger. I tune with SCT ProRacer and am still working on the tune - I don't have the meth injection turned on yet but here at my elevation there is not much adjustment to the factory tune required even at these boost levels. I do have the iat sensor relocated to after the blower, so I can make the tune sense if the meth injection is working or not and adjust accordingly.
 

vegeta

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I put the Moddbox kit on my 09 FX4 this fall.

View attachment 69626


Overall, the kit is well designed and well executed, and the instructions are pretty clear in most respects.

There are a couple of details that I think they should have addressed:
1. Using the Ranger EGR valve results in the extension tube pushing on the coil packs. I fixed this by obtaining a Mustang EGR valve (as shown in the photo) which has the intake port oriented to the front rather than to the driver side.
2. The throttle body is about half an inch farther to the passenger side of the vehicle than it needs to be. This results in the tps sensor being smashed up against the heater core hose (you can see that in the photo) and the iac being right up against the heater housing (hidden in the photo). This will make r/r of either of those parts fairly complex as the whole intake to the blower needs to be removed to access either. Their instructions do not clearly state that the electrical connector must be on the iac before you install the intake piece, so I got to do that part twice.
3. The air intake hose runs right over the oil inlet. This is not a huge issue for me since my engine thankfully does not use oil, so I can take the intake hose loose a couple of times a year when I change oil, but if the throttle body were angled as suggested in one of the posts above, that could be avoided.

Given the complexity of the whole system, those are fairly minor concerns and overall I give it an A- for design and execution. I had the RPCaster kit on my 03 FX4 back 15 years ago or so, and this is much cleaner and better executed imho, and it appears it will provide more power for the same boost level due to smoother flowing air into and out of the blower.

The pully I have on the blower generates 6 psi boost here at 5000-6000 feet elevation, and it makes a pretty significant difference in performance. The truck was kind of a slug in factory trim given the lack of air up here, and with the blower its perfectly adequate, but will only feel like a race car compared to a 3.0 Ranger. I tune with SCT ProRacer and am still working on the tune - I don't have the meth injection turned on yet but here at my elevation there is not much adjustment to the factory tune required even at these boost levels. I do have the iat sensor relocated to after the blower, so I can make the tune sense if the meth injection is working or not and adjust accordingly.
what year mustang for the egr?
 

rubydist

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4WD
MOTORCRAFT CX1720 or STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS EGV464 or similar - fits 99-04 Mustang plus a whole lot of other Ford vehicles.
 

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