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Need V-8 Swap Articles




Bird76Mojo

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Not sure if it's needed here, but I had this in a file from another post I made about my build. Maybe someone will find the links useful??

Hedmann 88400 headers fit my 87 single cab shortbed really nice. Had them blasted and ceramic coated in Indy. - https://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/88400/10002/-1

The Transdapt oil filter adapter is a piece of junk. I'd go with the L&L oil filter adapter myself. - https://www.landlproducts.com/details.aspx?c=0&sc=0&ItemID=1020

The swap radiator I bought on Ebay. It has a 90 degree angled filler neck. Made by Superior Radiator. A very nice part and beautifully built, and it tucks up inside the core support to give you enough room for the factory mechanical fan. Can be used with an automatic trans or a manual trans - https://www.ebay.com/p/Ford-302-Ranger-V8-V-8-Aluminum-Radiator-Direct-Fit/11021510326?iid=163511953925&chn=ps

If you go to a T5, the speed sensor that let me keep my original Ranger mechanical drive speedo, but also supply the Mustang A9P computer the speed signal it needed, was Napa part #NOE-600-4273 or a Dorman #917-614 - It works with any classic Mustang speedo cable.

To get the original Ranger dashboard oil pressure guage to work with the V8 I used - BWD- S334 with a 45 degree adapter for clearance - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-oil-pressure-gauge-switch-s334/5971586-P

To keep the original Ranger coolant temperature guage working with the V8 I used part - WT7245 - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-temperature-sender-with-gauge-wt7245/18480667-P

My conversion u-joints to use a shortened Explorer Limited aluminum driveshaft hooked to my Ranger 8.8" 4.10 w/Torsen from an FX4 LVL II, were a 1310-1330 Conversion u-joint Moog-253 - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-253

The rubber engine mounts I used were - Anchor #2329 - I had to grind one corner a TINY bit for block clearance - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ani-2329?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-anchor-industries&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj8v9nJqz4AIVT7jACh12HAF7EAQYASABEgLTnPD_BwE

The engine mount plates I got were used but they came from the Tran Dapt Ranger swap kit. Should be these - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9716/overview/make/ford/model/ranger

Speedway Motors aluminum radiator expansion tank maintains a good vacuum in the system and lets it pull coolant back in when needed - 106-80158 AFCO brand - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-80158-Coolant-Recovery-Tank,39689.html

My locking header bolts have been great so far - ProForm 66756 - https://www.cjponyparts.com/proform-exhaust-header-bolt-set-3-8-inch-16x1-inch-wedge-locking-small-block-big-block/p/EXHDB17/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI46H05Jqz4AIVArbACh0AVwy4EAQYASABEgIaF_D_BwE

I used a billet Tilton hydraulic slave cylinder with the factory Ranger clutch master cylinder but I advise against it. My Tilton has been problematic with the flat faced throwout bearing that Tilton uses. Junk Chinese bearings that they charge $50 each for.. It's a super nice piece if I can ever get the bearing to last - http://tiltonracing.com/product/6000-series-hydraulic-release-bearings/

Ford Performance billet steel flywheel - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6375-C302B

RAM HDX Clutch Kits 88794HD - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-88794HD

Ron Francis Telorvek wiring system with Ford Mustang A9P EEC - https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MG-70

Modern Driveline front shift, rear socket conversion T5Z transmission to maintain the original location of the floor shifter, along with their billet shifter, speedo cable, and all hardware. I had my own Mustang bell housing - $3386 http://transmission.moderndriveline.com/speed/pc/TREMEC-Super-Duty-T5-5-Speed-with-Front-Shift-Rear-Socket-conversion-p6.htm

Core Shifters double bend chrome Hurst shift lever for the T5 - https://core-shifters.com/products/hurst-chrome-shifter-stick-handle-6900-1969-77-chevy-truck-1982-86-jeep-cj-t5

Hurst shift lever ball - 3/8"-16 - https://www.ebay.com/i/281854910157?chn=ps

Offset double lip rear main crankshaft seal for the 5.0 - seals it up for good - EngineTech S4686 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/enginetech,S4686,crankshaft+seal,5604

Flowmaster universal 2.5" mandrel bent stainless steel u-weld-it duel exhaust kit with H-pipe - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-815936

Magnaflow dual in / dual out stainless 2.5" muffler - https://www.ebay.com/p/Exhaust-Muffler-Magnaflow-11386/227444772?iid=271754820097&chn=ps

Ford 8.8" axle swap u bolts - Currie CE-9020 4pcs - https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/currie-u-bolt-for-3-1-4-inch-axle-tube-ce-9020/_/R-DVPF-CE-9020

Ford 8.8" axle swap spring plates, extra beefy units - https://www.ebay.com/itm/U-Bolt-Plates-for-14-Bolt-8-8-3-25/303049923191?hash=item468f2eda77:g:nhAAAOSwBOlagKZc:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true

The AN fuel system I used all Russell brand adapters and hose ends. This let me retain a factory Ranger EFI fuel pickup in the stock fuel tank. Plug and play. You can find them all on Russell's website.
To the fuel rail - https://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/640873/10002/-1
To the fuel rail - https://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/640903/10002/-1
More from this page to hook to the factory Ranger fuel pickup tubes: http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/adapter-fittings/specialty-fuel-injected.shtml

Earls billet fuel filter - https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/fuel_system_components/fuel_filters/parts/230606ERL

Two of these to adapt to the Earl's billet filter - Earl's Performance AN Port Adapters AT985006ERL - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at985006erl


I'm extremely happy with it so far, but I did it the expensive way for sure. It's built like a tank though.
 

Rick W

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How about a Lincoln 302 from a 1988-89 town car with the OD tranny? I’ve got 3 Lincolns and now 3 rangers plus Big Red, the F250 diesel. If my 1993 mini tractor trailer conversion works out, the next step would be to beef up the power. I‘ll need torque more than quick acceleration and speed. I’m thinking the Lincoln seci fuel injected 8, overdrive auto trans, and change the drive axle and gears. I’m interested in the Lincoln simply cuz the Lincolns are my trademark right now if you know what I mean. So my question for you guys is: is there really a big difference (or a big time savings) using the explorer 302 vs the Lincoln 302??? Aren’t they the same block/mounting? I also have the 87&88 town cars as “go by” models to get it all in place.

As always comments, criticism and sarcasm welcome!
 

Loganwildman

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How about a Lincoln 302 from a 1988-89 town car with the OD tranny? I’ve got 3 Lincolns and now 3 rangers plus Big Red, the F250 diesel. If my 1993 mini tractor trailer conversion works out, the next step would be to beef up the power. I‘ll need torque more than quick acceleration and speed. I’m thinking the Lincoln seci fuel injected 8, overdrive auto trans, and change the drive axle and gears. I’m interested in the Lincoln simply cuz the Lincolns are my trademark right now if you know what I mean. So my question for you guys is: is there really a big difference (or a big time savings) using the explorer 302 vs the Lincoln 302??? Aren’t they the same block/mounting? I also have the 87&88 town cars as “go by” models to get it all in place.

As always comments, criticism and sarcasm welcome!
The main reason the explorer 302 is recommended is for the FEAD. It is a low profile and gives a bit more room between the engine and the radiator. However, it can be done with a regular 302 FEAD. If you watch my video series (links in earlier posts) you can see how I tackled it and maybe pick up some tips that will be some help to you. You will need the complete engine harness and computer along with a good guide to understanding the harness, to make the fuelie system work. Also, if you look around on ebay, you can find the complete electrical schematics for each model year.
 

Ranger850

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Born with a 3.0, looking for a donor V8
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Stock 2"
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My credo
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How about a Lincoln 302 from a 1988-89 town car with the OD tranny? I’ve got 3 Lincolns and now 3 rangers plus Big Red, the F250 diesel. If my 1993 mini tractor trailer conversion works out, the next step would be to beef up the power. I‘ll need torque more than quick acceleration and speed. I’m thinking the Lincoln seci fuel injected 8, overdrive auto trans, and change the drive axle and gears. I’m interested in the Lincoln simply cuz the Lincolns are my trademark right now if you know what I mean. So my question for you guys is: is there really a big difference (or a big time savings) using the explorer 302 vs the Lincoln 302??? Aren’t they the same block/mounting? I also have the 87&88 town cars as “go by” models to get it all in place.

As always comments, criticism and sarcasm welcome!
Do it.
Do a write-up while you do it and post pics
 

Loganwildman

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I am planning to pull the 302 I installed in my Ranger project to improve it by boring and stroking it to a 332. I also plan to discuss porting the aluminum X heads and going with a cam that is matched to the package instead of the F series motorsports cam that I have now. If there is interest, I can redo some of the video's I did during the first build of this project. I also am debating on installing a c4 instead of the 5 speed.
 

Rick W

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Make / Model
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Engine Type
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Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
Just when we think we know it all....

what is “FEAD” or “302 FEAD” ???

also, I’ve caught the fever, but I’m moving slow in my golden years, and I have 2-1/2 other Rangers to finish (buying them was like eating peanuts), not to mention the list for the Lincolns and Big Red’s basic needs. & there’s a house that needs painting and yard work in there somewhere. However, I know it’s all possible now, since all the wives are gone! Having said that, I usually get all my thoughts together over a period of time, and start accumulating junk like I’ve done for the 4WD, trailers and Mini tractor trailer project. Then I just dive in one weekend. I’m semi retired so I’ve got about 5 1/2 or six days of weekends every week these days...

THANK YOU for the great write up and advice and Encouragement. You know, if I go with this, be careful what you wish for, I’m your new best friend…
 
Last edited:

fastpakr

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Front end accessory drive - the pulley setup for the water pump, alternator, A/C, steering, etc.
 

Rick W

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Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
Learn something new every day.....
 

Rick W

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Age
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1997 1987
Make / Model
Ranger XLT x2
Engine Type
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Engine Size
4.0 & 2.9
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
97 stock, 3” on 87
Total Drop
N/A
Tire Size
235/75-15
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
Also, if you look around on ebay, you can find the complete electrical schematics for each model year.
LWM, Are you talking about schematics for the Lincoln donor or for the Ranger (or both)?
 

Shran

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How about a Lincoln 302 from a 1988-89 town car with the OD tranny?
I have a 302 from an '89 Crown Vic in mine, same engine you are considering. Strong running engine but it does not make much power - I think they were rated at 150hp. It was a step up from the 2.9 since I could run a better transmission behind it but it's still kind of a dog sometimes. I had pretty low expectations though and was not disappointed by the swap.

The Explorer 302 will for sure make more power and as mentioned the accessories are easier to work with BUT depending on your donor, you may have to run special headers/manifolds to clear the spark plugs and the wiring part may be marginally more difficult.

Late 80's Ford engine harnesses are really easy to work with, you just need power to a couple of wires and grounds hooked up to make them function.
 

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