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Need V-8 Swap Articles

Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 4FF3E9EEA14805 Expires: October 1st, 2020


Well-known member
Jun 28, 2009
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Not sure if it's needed here, but I had this in a file from another post I made about my build. Maybe someone will find the links useful??

Hedmann 88400 headers fit my 87 single cab shortbed really nice. Had them blasted and ceramic coated in Indy. - https://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/88400/10002/-1

The Transdapt oil filter adapter is a piece of junk. I'd go with the L&L oil filter adapter myself. - https://www.landlproducts.com/details.aspx?c=0&sc=0&ItemID=1020

The swap radiator I bought on Ebay. It has a 90 degree angled filler neck. Made by Superior Radiator. A very nice part and beautifully built, and it tucks up inside the core support to give you enough room for the factory mechanical fan. Can be used with an automatic trans or a manual trans - https://www.ebay.com/p/Ford-302-Ranger-V8-V-8-Aluminum-Radiator-Direct-Fit/11021510326?iid=163511953925&chn=ps

If you go to a T5, the speed sensor that let me keep my original Ranger mechanical drive speedo, but also supply the Mustang A9P computer the speed signal it needed, was Napa part #NOE-600-4273 or a Dorman #917-614 - It works with any classic Mustang speedo cable.

To get the original Ranger dashboard oil pressure guage to work with the V8 I used - BWD- S334 with a 45 degree adapter for clearance - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-oil-pressure-gauge-switch-s334/5971586-P

To keep the original Ranger coolant temperature guage working with the V8 I used part - WT7245 - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-temperature-sender-with-gauge-wt7245/18480667-P

My conversion u-joints to use a shortened Explorer Limited aluminum driveshaft hooked to my Ranger 8.8" 4.10 w/Torsen from an FX4 LVL II, were a 1310-1330 Conversion u-joint Moog-253 - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-253

The rubber engine mounts I used were - Anchor #2329 - I had to grind one corner a TINY bit for block clearance - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ani-2329?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-anchor-industries&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj8v9nJqz4AIVT7jACh12HAF7EAQYASABEgLTnPD_BwE

The engine mount plates I got were used but they came from the Tran Dapt Ranger swap kit. Should be these - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9716/overview/make/ford/model/ranger

Speedway Motors aluminum radiator expansion tank maintains a good vacuum in the system and lets it pull coolant back in when needed - 106-80158 AFCO brand - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-80158-Coolant-Recovery-Tank,39689.html

My locking header bolts have been great so far - ProForm 66756 - https://www.cjponyparts.com/proform-exhaust-header-bolt-set-3-8-inch-16x1-inch-wedge-locking-small-block-big-block/p/EXHDB17/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI46H05Jqz4AIVArbACh0AVwy4EAQYASABEgIaF_D_BwE

I used a billet Tilton hydraulic slave cylinder with the factory Ranger clutch master cylinder but I advise against it. My Tilton has been problematic with the flat faced throwout bearing that Tilton uses. Junk Chinese bearings that they charge $50 each for.. It's a super nice piece if I can ever get the bearing to last - http://tiltonracing.com/product/6000-series-hydraulic-release-bearings/

Ford Performance billet steel flywheel - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6375-C302B

RAM HDX Clutch Kits 88794HD - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-88794HD

Ron Francis Telorvek wiring system with Ford Mustang A9P EEC - https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MG-70

Modern Driveline front shift, rear socket conversion T5Z transmission to maintain the original location of the floor shifter, along with their billet shifter, speedo cable, and all hardware. I had my own Mustang bell housing - $3386 http://transmission.moderndriveline.com/speed/pc/TREMEC-Super-Duty-T5-5-Speed-with-Front-Shift-Rear-Socket-conversion-p6.htm

Core Shifters double bend chrome Hurst shift lever for the T5 - https://core-shifters.com/products/hurst-chrome-shifter-stick-handle-6900-1969-77-chevy-truck-1982-86-jeep-cj-t5

Hurst shift lever ball - 3/8"-16 - https://www.ebay.com/i/281854910157?chn=ps

Offset double lip rear main crankshaft seal for the 5.0 - seals it up for good - EngineTech S4686 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/enginetech,S4686,crankshaft+seal,5604

Flowmaster universal 2.5" mandrel bent stainless steel u-weld-it duel exhaust kit with H-pipe - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-815936

Magnaflow dual in / dual out stainless 2.5" muffler - https://www.ebay.com/p/Exhaust-Muffler-Magnaflow-11386/227444772?iid=271754820097&chn=ps

Ford 8.8" axle swap u bolts - Currie CE-9020 4pcs - https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/currie-u-bolt-for-3-1-4-inch-axle-tube-ce-9020/_/R-DVPF-CE-9020

Ford 8.8" axle swap spring plates, extra beefy units - https://www.ebay.com/itm/U-Bolt-Plates-for-14-Bolt-8-8-3-25/303049923191?hash=item468f2eda77:g:nhAAAOSwBOlagKZc:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true

The AN fuel system I used all Russell brand adapters and hose ends. This let me retain a factory Ranger EFI fuel pickup in the stock fuel tank. Plug and play. You can find them all on Russell's website.
To the fuel rail - https://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/640873/10002/-1
To the fuel rail - https://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/640903/10002/-1
More from this page to hook to the factory Ranger fuel pickup tubes: http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/adapter-fittings/specialty-fuel-injected.shtml

Earls billet fuel filter - https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/fuel_system_components/fuel_filters/parts/230606ERL

Two of these to adapt to the Earl's billet filter - Earl's Performance AN Port Adapters AT985006ERL - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at985006erl

I'm extremely happy with it so far, but I did it the expensive way for sure. It's built like a tank though.