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need some input on building my rockcrawler


PaleBlue90

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so right now my truggy project has a HP D30, with 4.10's, stock tj shafts and a OX locker for the front axle. the rear is a 28 spline 8.8, 4.10's, stock fx4 LS. right now im running stock FX4 leafs and blocks. the front is 6 inch procomp yj leafs with hyper flex bushings. im only running rubicon wheels with stock size MTR's. my MTRs are bald so ill be lookin for a set of 33's or 35's

i have a 2.3 .30over, RV cam, ported head, and forged internals. i was told that if i run bigger then 31's with the 30 i need to truss it. would it be worth the money to build my 30 and 8.8 or go to something else that leaf sprung. the 30 has new seals,balljoints,u joints,etc. its only got 20 miles on it. the 8.8 has 10K on it. i really dont have the money to build another set of axles, plus it would make it so i can finish the damn thing by the 1st of the year:sad:

im lookin for advice on a "cheap" but beefy way to run 33's or 35's. i kno im going to have to regear, idk to what. plus i want to be locked front and rear:D
 


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flyingbrick

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If your gentle a D30 can handle 33s, if you drive like a old lady on her way to church it can handle up to 37s. and a d30 can only be geared to 4.88
 

PaleBlue90

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If your gentle a D30 can handle 33s, if you drive like a old lady on her way to church it can handle up to 37s. and a d30 can only be geared to 4.88
hmmmm thats something to think about. i was told if i drive with a real light foot i can handle 37's 38s if its wheeled hard and trussed. as for the gearing.... idk if 4.88's would be enough for my 2.3:icon_rofl:
 

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eb44 or...

something odd and flameworthy...

yoder 8's.

Cheap. Strong. Wrong side drop. But that can be fixed. It's tempting me (not too worried bout flippin the axle, should be able to get it done) but width is what worries me, but shouldn't be bad.
 

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hmmmm thats something to think about. i was told if i drive with a real light foot i can handle 37's 38s if its wheeled hard and trussed. as for the gearing.... idk if 4.88's would be enough for my 2.3:icon_rofl:
My buddy's dad has a 30 in his TJ with 37s, locked front and rear and it has held up admirably well. I think he has 4.88s and hardened shafts.

I wouldn't bother spending the time and effort trussing a 30... I just don't think you'll need it. If you were doing high speed stuff and jumps then maybe, but in the rocks you will be just fine without.

I think if it were me in your situation I would be looking for a set of 33s and no larger just due to your motor and gears. If you were looking to regear immediately then I'd look for maybe some 35s or 36s and 4.88s.
 

PaleBlue90

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My buddy's dad has a 30 in his TJ with 37s, locked front and rear and it has held up admirably well. I think he has 4.88s and hardened shafts.

I wouldn't bother spending the time and effort trussing a 30... I just don't think you'll need it. If you were doing high speed stuff and jumps then maybe, but in the rocks you will be just fine without.

I think if it were me in your situation I would be looking for a set of 33s and no larger just due to your motor and gears. If you were looking to regear immediately then I'd look for maybe some 35s or 36s and 4.88s.
you do you think 4.10's would b fine with 33's and a 2.3?

i think i might just go with 33's for right now. if i dont have to regear anyway. i really want to wheel and and have it driveable. if i did that i could build a 60 and a stearling 10.25 for the rear:D:icon_welder::icon_hornsup:
 

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Yota axles could be sick.

There's a bunch of solid axle coil sprung land rovers or range rovers. What ever the hell rovers ran the funny lookin little solid front with the e locker.

They only ask 180 for an axle with disks regardless of the axle...
 

PaleBlue90

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Yota axles could be sick.

There's a bunch of solid axle coil sprung land rovers or range rovers. What ever the hell rovers ran the funny lookin little solid front with the e locker.

They only ask 180 for an axle with disks regardless of the axle...
i thought about the yota axles. havent looked much into it.might have to do that:icon_thumby:
 

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you do you think 4.10's would b fine with 33's and a 2.3?

i think i might just go with 33's for right now. if i dont have to regear anyway. i really want to wheel and and have it driveable. if i did that i could build a 60 and a stearling 10.25 for the rear:D:icon_welder::icon_hornsup:
You'll ride the clutch a little more but it's doable.
 

PaleBlue90

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You'll ride the clutch a little more but it's doable.
well i think the 33's are going to fit the bill, im looking at a Klune for my self :D

my friend kept talkin shi* about how im going to split the frame, so im goin to get it driveable and build 1 tons for it with 40's:thefinger:
 

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ok so adamn (littlebigfoot) told me about some front axle stuff i will get that sorted. i need ideas on a rearend to build. im torn between these 3

14bolt

Pros: strong, good aftermarket (from what i have heard the pinion is bigger then a 9inches pinion)
Cons:heavy,no ground clearence.

9inch
Pros: 31 spline shafts, good after market, easy to set up in a ranger.
Cons: pinion is a weak link (from what ive heard)

sterling 10.25

Pros: good ground clearence,good after market, easy to find, half the weight of a 14bolt, i dont have to shave it to gain major clearence

Cons:kinda pricey,the hardware has a issue of comeing loose in the diff and blowing up

i think the rear will depend on what my front lug pattern is. littlebigfoot said that you could use 60 spindles,knuckles etc. but im not 100% beacuse it was a few nights ago. ill have to PM him and get all the facts again
 

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As far as the 30 in front. My buddy wheels a jeep with 4.10s and 35s he isnt locked in front, he does well on the trail and doesnt break anything. When he used to drive it on the road, it was a dog. 55mph in 3rd gear.
 

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ok so adamn (littlebigfoot) told me about some front axle stuff i will get that sorted. i need ideas on a rearend to build. im torn between these 3

14bolt

Pros: strong, good aftermarket (from what i have heard the pinion is bigger then a 9inches pinion)
Cons:heavy,no ground clearence.

9inch
Pros: 31 spline shafts, good after market, easy to set up in a ranger.
Cons: pinion is a weak link (from what ive heard)

sterling 10.25

Pros: good ground clearence,good after market, easy to find, half the weight of a 14bolt, i dont have to shave it to gain major clearence

Cons:kinda pricey,the hardware has a issue of comeing loose in the diff and blowing up

i think the rear will depend on what my front lug pattern is. littlebigfoot said that you could use 60 spindles,knuckles etc. but im not 100% beacuse it was a few nights ago. ill have to PM him and get all the facts again
your 8.8 should be able to handle 36's without any worry. after that, id just go all the way up to the sterling. absoloutley insane axle. bulletproof. and the ring gear hardware is a nonissue with different bolts. not a 14bolt fan, and while the 9 is an excellent axle, people in my area want good money for them since theyre used in racing so much.

for the front, are you willing to do a fullwidth setup?
 

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14bolt

Pros: strong, good aftermarket (from what i have heard the pinion is bigger then a 9inches pinion)
Cons:heavy,no ground clearence.

9inch
Pros: 31 spline shafts, good after market, easy to set up in a ranger.
Cons: pinion is a weak link (from what ive heard)

sterling 10.25

Pros: good ground clearence,good after market, easy to find, half the weight of a 14bolt, i dont have to shave it to gain major clearence

Cons:kinda pricey,the hardware has a issue of comeing loose in the diff and blowing up

i think the rear will depend on what my front lug pattern is. littlebigfoot said that you could use 60 spindles,knuckles etc. but im not 100% beacuse it was a few nights ago. ill have to PM him and get all the facts again
Personally, I would go with the 9". For your application anyway. If you were immediately gonna have a need for the one ton stuff, I'd probably do the Sterling. They are still heavy as hell though. The ring gear bolt issue can be solved with Loctite.
 


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