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Need PATS help on 93 ranger swap


farmhanddunc

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Like the title says im about to drop my 5.0 out of a 98 explorer into my 93 ranger. It then hits me im going to have to deal with PATS. since my vehicle does not have Pats i understand i am going to need something of the explorer steering column and then the module behind the glove box.

Now what exactly do i need from the steering column and what is the best way to wire up the pats system so it will start ?
 


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RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

You will need the Transceiver that is located around the key cylinder in the steering column of the explorer, along with it's wiring to the PATS module above glove box.

And of course the wiring between PATS module and computer

You can just put a working PATS key from the explorer inside the transceivers ring, tape it in place and put module and transceiver/with key, out of the way under the dash.

1998 PATS works like this
Key is turned on
PATS module powers up and sends a Radio Frequency(RF) Burst out of the Transceiver around key cylinder
PATS key's RF ID Tag gets energy from that burst and it sends out its unique RF ID Tag number, so no batteries required for PATS keys
Transceiver picks up that Tag number and sends it to the PATS module(transceiver = transmitter/receiver)
Module has a list of up to 6 Tag numbers, and compares in coming number to that list
If it finds a match then PATS module sends a unique code to Computer that allows computer to start fuel pump and fuel injectors for starting, starter motor relay was also added but not sure in 1998 PATS
If there is no match then computer never gets the "OK" to start fuel system

The PATS Module and Computer are "Married" at the factory, so they are a set, this means there is not a simple OK or NO that can be by-passed in the computer, they have an RSA encryption for OK or NO that changes each time they are booted up, so even if a thief were to intercept an OK code it wouldn't be any good for next start up.
If computer or PATS module are changed Ford Dealer needs to remarry them


So if working PATS key is in the transceiver when 1993 Ranger key is turned on the PATS will read the Explorer key's PATS number and allow vehicle to start.

Google: pats transceiver images

PATS is ONLY used for startup, it is not used once engine is running

You can also send out computer to a programmer who can delete PATS so it isn't require for starting
 
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farmhanddunc

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Thanks RonD!

Motor is sittin on mounts and the transmission is about to be installed.

PATS is my next project. ill be sure to post in this or DM you if i run into any issues!
 

farmhanddunc

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Okay, everything on this swap is complete except for the wiring. I searched for hours to find a 42 pin connnector diagram off a 98 explorer and I sure hope the one I found is correct. I labeled all the wires and have a few that are "Data link" I read somewhere that these are the wires that run pats.

how do I splice the pats into the connector to get the truck to fire?

And can anyone point me to a wiring diagram for a 93 4.0 ranger for splicing
 

farmhanddunc

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Okay I found some wiring I info. I plan on pulling the wires from the back of the ranger 60 pin and then splicing into the 42 pin off the explorer.

This is the explorer


This is the ranger


Can someone help me with what needs to be spliced where? This will be day 3 of me trying to figure it out. Obviously I won't need all of the 42 connector hooked up. Just the essentials plus what I need for A/C.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

farmhanddunc

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Update:

The everything is wired in. I think...

the PATS tranciever module is wired directly to the control module by matching all colors. grounds are connected to a ground and Hot wires are connected to positive leads.
the Bus + and - ( T/O & PK/LB) are connected to the "data link" wires from the ecm.

the 42 pin connector is all spliced in except for a few wires that are not vital for ignition and run (A/C, etc.)

engine will crank but will not start. fuel pump isnt kicking on. When i stick a test light on the "anti theft indicator from the PATS control module there are no flashes. (shouldnt there be one every 2 seconds?)

I am out of ideas and getting very frustrated. Need some serious advice and help!
 

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Are you get CEL(check engine light) when key is turned on, that means computer(ECM) is booting up

Yes, with key OFF anti-theft light should flash every few seconds, light is Grounded in the dash so PATS module sends it 12volts every few seconds

PATS module should have power 24/7, all the time
And a separate Key ON power wire

With key ON and in START position a rapid flashing anti-theft light means key didn't pass PATS Test
 

farmhanddunc

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Are you get CEL(check engine light) when key is turned on, that means computer(ECM) is booting up

Yes, with key OFF anti-theft light should flash every few seconds, light is Grounded in the dash so PATS module sends it 12volts every few seconds

PATS module should have power 24/7, all the time
And a separate Key ON power wire

With key ON and in START position a rapid flashing anti-theft light means key didn't pass PATS Test
at one point the CEL came on when i turned the key. i Just unplugged it for a few seconds and then plugged the computer back in and it did not do it. maybe i didnt wait long enough. (side note the CEL light is on very dim when the key is off and removed. so its back feeding from somewhere)

i dont have an indicator light but a test light is not receiving any power from the indicator. (should be every 2 seconds)

the always hot and start/run wires for the PATS module are both connected to an always hot for the time being. should i change that?
 

2Krngr

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at one point the CEL came on when i turned the key. i Just unplugged it for a few seconds and then plugged the computer back in and it did not do it. maybe i didnt wait long enough. (side note the CEL light is on very dim when the key is off and removed. so its back feeding from somewhere)

i dont have an indicator light but a test light is not receiving any power from the indicator. (should be every 2 seconds)

the always hot and start/run wires for the PATS module are both connected to an always hot for the time being. should i change that?
Sorry I'm not sure as to the wiring trouble you are having, but personally to me It seems that I wouldn't have even messed with adding PATS to an early chassis that was never offered with PATS as for the wiring headache.

I would just send out the ecu to have the function removed or buy an SCT x4 which can eliminate it as well as give the ability to tune the truck. Although at $400 the x4 might not be in everyones build budget, I don't know what the ecu service cost in comparison.

With such a large amount of wiring changes you have had to do to install the late model ecu into the early gen chassis it seems that PATS makes it much for difficult for you to diagnose\complete the swap, as there could be something else not allowing the truck to start and you could be chasing PATS as the problem for weeks but there may be more to it.

Not trying to be negative, props for tackling the wiring on this project. Just expressing my initial feeling on what I would have probably done.

Hope you get this thing started soon!
 

farmhanddunc

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Sorry I'm not sure as to the wiring trouble you are having, but personally to me It seems that I wouldn't have even messed with adding PATS to an early chassis that was never offered with PATS as for the wiring headache.

I would just send out the ecu to have the function removed or buy an SCT x4 which can eliminate it as well as give the ability to tune the truck. Although at $400 the x4 might not be in everyones build budget, I don't know what the ecu service cost in comparison.

With such a large amount of wiring changes you have had to do to install the late model ecu into the early gen chassis it seems that PATS makes it much for difficult for you to diagnose\complete the swap, as there could be something else not allowing the truck to start and you could be chasing PATS as the problem for weeks but there may be more to it.

Not trying to be negative, props for tackling the wiring on this project. Just expressing my initial feeling on what I would have probably done.

Hope you get this thing started soon!
As a college student being a gear head is sometimes hard as it limits my budget. i got a good deal on a donor and picked it up thinking pats would be an inconvenience not a headache. the wires seem simple enough so thats why i am confused on what could be wrong unless it is something on the ecm (like me incorrectly wiring something from the 42 pin connector)
 

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As a college student being a gear head is sometimes hard as it limits my budget. i got a good deal on a donor and picked it up thinking pats would be an inconvenience not a headache. the wires seem simple enough so thats why i am confused on what could be wrong unless it is something on the ecm (like me incorrectly wiring something from the 42 pin connector)
The two 5.0 swaps I have done were a 99 2dr expo and a 00 ranger both had pats already. So it's just a matter of swapping the parts into it, plug and play luckily.

So I have not had the pats harness out of the trucks, I just swapped the key cylinder and ecu so I haven't really taken a good look at it. Does the pats harness/module behind the passenger dash area integrate into the dash harness, or is it a separate standalone harness from the rest of the cabin harness?

I ask as to did you transplant a standalone PATS harness module-to-igniton-to-firewall connector and just needed to add the couple pins for power/ground or was it much more involved than that if it was integrated into the donor trucks complete dash harness?

I am interested in your build and what it takes to get the PATS going. Do you have any pics?
 

farmhanddunc

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The two 5.0 swaps I have done were a 99 2dr expo and a 00 ranger both had pats already. So it's just a matter of swapping the parts into it, plug and play luckily.



So I have not had the pats harness out of the trucks, I just swapped the key cylinder and ecu so I haven't really taken a good look at it. Does the pats harness/module behind the passenger dash area integrate into the dash harness, or is it a separate standalone harness from the rest of the cabin harness?



I ask as to did you transplant a standalone PATS harness module-to-igniton-to-firewall connector and just needed to add the couple pins for power/ground or was it much more involved than that if it was integrated into the donor trucks complete dash harness?



I am interested in your build and what it takes to get the PATS going. Do you have any pics?

PATS seemed to be integrated into the main dash harness. So I just cut Some wiring out with the two pieces

This is all the PATS stuff I removed from the donor
-key ring/transceiver with some wiring
-key
-control module with some wiring



These are the diagrams for the two. Three wires all from the transceiver I wired directly to the corresponding colors on the control module. Grounded all grounds. Put the hot wires to B+. Removed the indicator wire as I don't have one. Then wired in the remaining two "Bus" connectors to the corresponding "data link" wires from the PCM



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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farmhanddunc

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RonD

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You are using the 104 wire PCM(computer) right, have to ask

And the instrument cluster for that PCM?
 


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