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NEED HELP


Deano3000

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I have a 94 B3000 and the past couple months I've replaced my distributor cap,button,wires and plugs then 2 days ago she died after pulling out on APD515 got up to 55-60 no warning she decided to give up the ghost right there in the middle of hwy I got it home got the EEC codes off the check engine light and it threw 211 Profile Ignition Pickup Circuit Failure, now I have no spark at my plugs and can't figure it out I replaced the Ignition coil hoping it would correct it and it did nothing my buddy said I wasn't getting anything at my injectors (power) so I'm lost. I can try the process of elimination but the crankshaft position sensor isn't too cheap like 70$ and I don't have that much cash to work with rn I'm in between jobs and just don't have it. Any and all insights would help tremendously thank you in advance. I attached a picture of my poor lowrider truck out of commission she's my daily driver too
 

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RonD

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The way the TFI system works is that inside the distributor is a Hall Effect sensor that pulses 12volts on and off each time the vane/window passes by it
Parts seen here: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/amedee/2010-02-04_203629_1.gif

The Rotor vane spins at engine/cam RPMs
The Pulsing is called the Profile Ignition Pickup(PIP) signal, 12v on/off

In the 1991-1994 3.0l that signal is sent to the remote mounted TFI module, usually mounted to the Rad support drivers side (under battery?)

The PIP signal tells TFI module when to spark the coil
TFI Module also sends PIP signal to engine computer, so it knows when to open fuel injectors, so no PIP means no injectors

The new distributor may have bad Hall effect sensor or rotor vane is loose
Or new distributor gear's roll pin has failed so distributor is no longer spinning at all, so no oil pump either
Take off cap and see if rotor is turning when you crank the engine over

Check the wires from distributor to TFI module

General TFI testing here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml
 

Deano3000

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The way the TFI system works is that inside the distributor is a Hall Effect sensor that pulses 12volts on and off each time the vane/window passes by it
Parts seen here: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/amedee/2010-02-04_203629_1.gif

The Rotor vane spins at engine/cam RPMs
The Pulsing is called the Profile Ignition Pickup(PIP) signal, 12v on/off

In the 1991-1994 3.0l that signal is sent to the remote mounted TFI module, usually mounted to the Rad support drivers side (under battery?)

The PIP signal tells TFI module when to spark the coil
TFI Module also sends PIP signal to engine computer, so it knows when to open fuel injectors, so no PIP means no injectors

The new distributor may have bad Hall effect sensor or rotor vane is loose
Or new distributor gear's roll pin has failed so distributor is no longer spinning at all, so no oil pump either
Take off cap and see if rotor is turning when you crank the engine over

Check the wires from distributor to TFI module

General TFI testing here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml


Could this possibly be part of my issue I believe this is my throttle position sensor wires I had put hot glue on the connectors before and I had a problem with the temp under my hood being it felt too hot under there and the glue melted off
 

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Deano3000

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Could this possibly be part of my issue I believe this is my throttle position sensor wires I had put hot glue on the connectors before and I had a problem with the temp under my hood being it felt too hot under there and the glue melted off
I also checked my TFI its fine e no corrosion issues or melted wires or connection problem that i can see I really need to invest in a multi meter so I can test wires I've never had an issue like this before
 

RonD

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As far as the no spark issue no

Engine may get a wandering idle or hesitate when you press down gas pedal but wouldn't cause spark issue

The Temp issue would effect TFI which is why it was moved to rad support on the 3.0ls

Does the distributor rotor turn when you crank the engine over?
 

Deano3000

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Really lost RN dude sorry to be a pest I have no choice but to reach out to whoever for some help
 

Deano3000

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Ok im gonna read more of the info you sent and see what I can come up with thanks man its very appreciated
 

Deano3000

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As far as the no spark issue no

Engine may get a wandering idle or hesitate when you press down gas pedal but wouldn't cause spark issue

The Temp issue would effect TFI which is why it was moved to rad support on the 3.0ls

Does the distributor rotor turn when you crank the engine over?
Ok i just had the wife come out and turn it over with the cap off and it is not turning
 

RonD

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So that's the problem and why it just died all of a sudden

Pull out new distributor and have a look at why

Most common issue is the roll pin that holds gear to distributor shaft sheared off
Pull it out carefully so gear comes out with distributor
But its a New part so should still be warrantied

The distributor gear is driven by a gear on the cam shaft, seen here: https://drivetribe.imgix.net/atYeT0tfSt-pnTjvVo7i0A

Cam gear is machined on to the cam shaft so can't come loose, its also made of a harder steel than distributor gear so if there is a "mismatch" the removable distributor gear would be the one that fails not the gear on the cam

The distributor gear is held onto the distributor shaft by a pin that slides thru the gear and shaft, its called a roll pin because its not a solid metal pin, its a "rolled metal" pin that has a slit along its length so it can be "tapped" into the slightly smaller hole and it holds tight

Looks like this: https://d3i5pc79anudl9.cloudfront.net/cache/400-400-/catalog/graphics/M/MS16562-16.jpg
 
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Deano3000

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So that's the problem and why it just died all of a sudden

Pull out new distributor and have a look at why

Most common issue is the roll pin that holds gear to distributor shaft sheared off
Pull it out carefully so gear comes out with distributor
But its a New part so should still be warrantied

The distributor gear is driven by a gear on the cam shaft, seen here: https://drivetribe.imgix.net/atYeT0tfSt-pnTjvVo7i0A

Cam gear is machined on to the cam shaft so can't come loose, its also made of a harder steel than distributor gear so if there is a "mismatch" the removable distributor gear would be the one that fails not the gear on the cam

The distributor gear is held onto the distributor shaft by a pin that slides thru the gear and shaft, its called a roll pin because its not a solid metal pin, its a "rolled metal" pin that has a slit along its length so it can be "tapped" into the slightly smaller hole and it holds tight

Looks like this: https://d3i5pc79anudl9.cloudfront.net/cache/400-400-/catalog/graphics/M/MS16562-16.jpg
I

When I replaced the distributor it was only the cap and rotor button nothing any further than that but when I go to replace the distributor don't I need to mark it somewhere so I don't mess up the timing
 

RonD

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No, timing is already off

You just need to pull distributor and find out the problem

You will need to time it again regardless of the problem
Its not hard, 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time
100% chance of getting it right if you pull out spark plug in #1 and find TDC Compression stroke
Really not that hard to time an engine
 

Deano3000

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So
I

When I replaced the distributor it was only the cap and rotor button nothing any further than that but when I go to replace the distributor don't I need to mark it somewhere so I don't mess up the timing
So if I have roll pins i can replace that one and it should be fine or ehats up cause I ha e a set of roll pins I bought for something else I was doing
 

Deano3000

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No, timing is already off

You just need to pull distributor and find out the problem

You will need to time it again regardless of the problem
Its not hard, 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time
100% chance of getting it right if you pull out spark plug in #1 and find TDC Compression stroke
Really not that hard to time an engine
10.4 man I really appreciate your time if I can be of any help or possibly give insight on something your tackling just holler at me im located in western NC and really need my truck deer hunting season opened today and I didn't go was too busy messing with this damn truck
 

RonD

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So is distributor out?

Yes, roll pin can just be replaced if it came out or sheared off, but I was assuming "new" distributor so defective part
Not sure what the issue is if its the original distributor at 27 years old
 

Deano3000

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I am pulling the distributor this morning I was mentally exhausted last night I been pulling hair out for days to try and figure it out to no avail til you answered my questions thank you this is the plus of being part of a group that love their rangers&B series trucks
 

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