2.3L ('83-'97) Need help with my 2.3 asap

[Ethan614]

I'm not the biggest car guy so this is prolly going to sound dumb to some, but I have this 1990 and it has been sitting for over a year. It started out shutting off while I was driving or stopping and then I had to start jumping it every time I drove it and now it just doesn't start even when it's been on a jump for an hour. It makes a sort of grinding/clicking noise when trying to turn over. I have replaced the alternator, solenoid, iv had my starter tested, and the battery is a little over a year old as well. I need to figure this out ASAP as my electrical apprenticeship is on the line.

 

[Dirtman]

Whats the battery voltage? Just because it's only a year old doesn't mean it's any good...

Also check the condition of the cables, check for voltage drop on both positive and ground cables.

 

[Ethan614]

Whats the battery voltage? Just because it's only a year old doesn't mean it's any good...

Also check the condition of the cables, check for voltage drop on both positive and ground cables.

Thank you much man. I will check that later when I get home from work

 

[HAWGFORD]

When you have a starter tested ,its on a bench, not actually turnin over a motor. Samething with a battery and alt. Probably needs rebuilt, or replaced. another thing to upgrades is your grounds, you should have one from the battery to motor, battery to frame and even put on on the body. Usually going from a starter bolt to the frame is a wise idea. use thick NEW cables or ground straps and makes sure there is clean bare metal at all connections. You didn't say when was the last time you changed your timing belt and 45k-60k is time. when you do this, you ALWAYS replace the crank sensor and water pump. The crank sensor could be alot of your problem. I own 5 2.3/5's and workin on my second turbo build. When I rebuilt the first, it had over 400k on it, had even above average compression and no oil leaks, however the oil pressure wasn't immediate at start up, maybe 2 sec. delay. I run a Lanzar amp and American Bass drivers,5x7-4 and dual voil coil 8" in modded explorer console. with higher compression and bigger injectors/cam. the stock starter spins it easy and stock alt charges easy. I have replaced everything possible with commercial grade LEDs and just havin LED headlights drops the draw alot. I have seen crazy stuff happen on trucks, cars and Harleys when the ground was no good. *********Just got in a 95 X-CAB to part out. NO DRIVETRAIN available. Body parts are clean southern panels from Atl, GA. Silver paint. Shortbed has perfect flor, but hard hit left tailight. Easy replacement job. If I find a junk bed and get the sections ,its included. ALL glass is nice. and stock x-cab windows are heavy tint. Gray interior including carpet is nice. email me direct hawgford@windstream.net. Cruise control for 2.3 5spd available.

 

[89Twincharge]

Check starter selonoid, I've had bad new ones before... on passenger side engine bay by battery. Touch both poles with screwdrivers and see if it turns over, also if its corroded it can cause all sorts of problems as that's where everything gets its power from! Also should be a ground from battery to your block passenger side also needs to be corrosion free and tight connection as well as one that goes to your starter!

 

[Ethan614]

So i had it running. I bought a new battery, solenoid, and alternator. I drove it for a couple days and just a little bit ago, i drove it to get pizza and it died wouldnt start when I came back out. It was too dead to start. So now I'm thinking it's a fuse possibly?

 

[Shran]

Touch both poles with screwdrivers and see if it turns over

Probably goes without saying but put the trans in neutral (if it's a manual) and engage the parking brake if and when you do this!

So i had it running. I bought a new battery, solenoid, and alternator. I drove it for a couple days and just a little bit ago, i drove it to get pizza and it died wouldnt start when I came back out. It was too dead to start. So now I'm thinking it's a fuse possibly?

Sounds to me like something in your charging system is not working. If I am reading this correctly, you have replaced the alternator twice now?

When it died this time could you turn on any lights? Radio, etc? Rule out a huge power drain somewhere when the ignition is off.

Do you have a multimeter? If so you should unhook the battery, charge it fully, start the engine and check the alternator output voltage. You will put your red lead on the big wire on the back of the alternator, the one held on by a nut. Black lead on a ground or negative battery terminal. You should see voltage of 14v +/- a little... anything around 12 or lower would indicate that the alternator is not working... then check your battery voltage directly on the battery terminals, should also read around the same 14v or so with the engine running.

Could be a lot of things at this point, you sure could check your fuses, both in the cab and under the hood.