• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

2.3L ('83-'97) Need help with my 2.3 asap


Ethan614

New Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2021
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Manual
I'm not the biggest car guy so this is prolly going to sound dumb to some, but I have this 1990 and it has been sitting for over a year. It started out shutting off while I was driving or stopping and then I had to start jumping it every time I drove it and now it just doesn't start even when it's been on a jump for an hour. It makes a sort of grinding/clicking noise when trying to turn over. I have replaced the alternator, solenoid, iv had my starter tested, and the battery is a little over a year old as well. I need to figure this out ASAP as my electrical apprenticeship is on the line.
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 70D65189E6D8FF: January 5th, 2022

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Supporting Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
19,340
Reaction score
13,286
Points
113
Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
Whats the battery voltage? Just because it's only a year old doesn't mean it's any good...

Also check the condition of the cables, check for voltage drop on both positive and ground cables.
 

Ethan614

New Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2021
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Manual
Whats the battery voltage? Just because it's only a year old doesn't mean it's any good...

Also check the condition of the cables, check for voltage drop on both positive and ground cables.
Thank you much man. I will check that later when I get home from work
 

HAWGFORD

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2015
Messages
59
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Vehicle Year
96
Make / Model
ford
Transmission
Automatic
When you have a starter tested ,its on a bench, not actually turnin over a motor. Samething with a battery and alt. Probably needs rebuilt, or replaced. another thing to upgrades is your grounds, you should have one from the battery to motor, battery to frame and even put on on the body. Usually going from a starter bolt to the frame is a wise idea. use thick NEW cables or ground straps and makes sure there is clean bare metal at all connections. You didn't say when was the last time you changed your timing belt and 45k-60k is time. when you do this, you ALWAYS replace the crank sensor and water pump. The crank sensor could be alot of your problem. I own 5 2.3/5's and workin on my second turbo build. When I rebuilt the first, it had over 400k on it, had even above average compression and no oil leaks, however the oil pressure wasn't immediate at start up, maybe 2 sec. delay. I run a Lanzar amp and American Bass drivers,5x7-4 and dual voil coil 8" in modded explorer console. with higher compression and bigger injectors/cam. the stock starter spins it easy and stock alt charges easy. I have replaced everything possible with commercial grade LEDs and just havin LED headlights drops the draw alot. I have seen crazy stuff happen on trucks, cars and Harleys when the ground was no good. *********Just got in a 95 X-CAB to part out. NO DRIVETRAIN available. Body parts are clean southern panels from Atl, GA. Silver paint. Shortbed has perfect flor, but hard hit left tailight. Easy replacement job. If I find a junk bed and get the sections ,its included. ALL glass is nice. and stock x-cab windows are heavy tint. Gray interior including carpet is nice. email me direct hawgford@windstream.net. Cruise control for 2.3 5spd available.
 

89Twincharge

Active Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
198
Reaction score
92
Points
28
Vehicle Year
89
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Check starter selonoid, I've had bad new ones before... on passenger side engine bay by battery. Touch both poles with screwdrivers and see if it turns over, also if its corroded it can cause all sorts of problems as that's where everything gets its power from! Also should be a ground from battery to your block passenger side also needs to be corrosion free and tight connection as well as one that goes to your starter!
 

Ethan614

New Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2021
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Transmission
Manual
So i had it running. I bought a new battery, solenoid, and alternator. I drove it for a couple days and just a little bit ago, i drove it to get pizza and it died wouldnt start when I came back out. It was too dead to start. So now I'm thinking it's a fuse possibly?
 

Shran

Junk Collector
Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
V8 Engine Swap
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Mar 4, 2008
Messages
6,606
Reaction score
1,858
Points
113
Location
Rapid City SD
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
5.0
Touch both poles with screwdrivers and see if it turns over
Probably goes without saying but put the trans in neutral (if it's a manual) and engage the parking brake if and when you do this!

So i had it running. I bought a new battery, solenoid, and alternator. I drove it for a couple days and just a little bit ago, i drove it to get pizza and it died wouldnt start when I came back out. It was too dead to start. So now I'm thinking it's a fuse possibly?
Sounds to me like something in your charging system is not working. If I am reading this correctly, you have replaced the alternator twice now?

When it died this time could you turn on any lights? Radio, etc? Rule out a huge power drain somewhere when the ignition is off.

Do you have a multimeter? If so you should unhook the battery, charge it fully, start the engine and check the alternator output voltage. You will put your red lead on the big wire on the back of the alternator, the one held on by a nut. Black lead on a ground or negative battery terminal. You should see voltage of 14v +/- a little... anything around 12 or lower would indicate that the alternator is not working... then check your battery voltage directly on the battery terminals, should also read around the same 14v or so with the engine running.

Could be a lot of things at this point, you sure could check your fuses, both in the cab and under the hood.
 


Top