My turbo'd 5.0L'd 4/5 dropped 2000 Ranger

[ummduh]

On the driver's side, pretty sure the higher deck block would put the header right back into the steering shaft though. Can't say for sure without doing it, but it barely clears now.

I'd have to get in there with a tape measure and try to figure it out. Or just do it and figure it out after.

 

[bobbywalter]

redirect the shaft with a bracket off of the control arm.

did that in 98 with a new 2wd and 454 swap. everybody runs the obx headers because no one wants to move a pivot point.

 

[ummduh]

Slowly chipping away, my best 1/8th yet... But then look at the log. I just can't get out of the hole! Spinning from 40-60mph at only 55-60% tps and 12-14psi... There is a LOT of time left on the table here. I also cleaned up my timing table and was down ~2 degrees across the board (plus I forgot about my rather aggressive 6 degree shift retard), and the trans short shifted due to the low TPS.

 

[bobbywalter]

at mid where is the timing....below 16 deg? i cant see a scale for it. you would think 15 psi 10 deg would be helping with the tires.....16 should be on target for max power at 20 psi though and be pretty safe.

 

[ummduh]

If you had more traction, you’d have more load, which might result in

This has haunted me for a few days now. I don't know why I didn't process the idea of load the first time I read it. I all of a sudden got it through.

I think I've got load under control, it hooks up and takes all of it sometimes.

I don't know that it would survive a 1/4 mile run though just due to my iat's..

 

[ummduh]

at mid where is the timing....below 16 deg? i cant see a scale for it. you would think 15 psi 10 deg would be helping with the tires.....16 should be on target for max power at 20 psi though and be pretty safe.

I'll post up my timing chart. I think I was drunk the last time I played with and and just went back and made it a lot safer, but some of my tweaks got lost in the mix. It sure ran good though! Mostly I'm just running n/a timing until 6psi or so, then pulling. Before the posted log I was at 19° at the same 20psi boost. Now it's about 17, sans shift retards.

I'm not pulling anything for IAT/clt.

 

[ummduh]

at mid where is the timing....below 16 deg? i cant see a scale for it. you would think 15 psi 10 deg would be helping with the tires.....16 should be on target for max power at 20 psi though and be pretty safe.

Current table. Nothing fancy. I noted kPa to psi in green on the left.

Low RPM is a lot soft (it doesn't spend any real down low besides idling, cruising speed it around 3k currently) . I haven't put much effort into perfecting it.

This map makes it run very happy. 20psi gives me 17.5*.

I need to figure out how to get the trans to shift faster now. I tried some manual shifting on my way home and it takes fooooooooooooooorever to actually shift. I normally keep it in auto, but I can see how it wouldn't always work out well doing that.

edit: Pretty sure its getting parked for the winter here soon, I'll pull plugs and see what they look like. In the past, running 22* at 18psi, I had one cylinder (was either #5 or 6 can't remember right now) that was hitting a plug pretty hard otherwise it could have taken more timing no problem. I suspect it'll be more of the same this time.

 

[ummduh]

Alrighty, so, winter money project is fuel cell. And swapping to the MS3X from the micro. I'll probably switch to sequential injection but keep the wasted spark for now.

Warning: probably a lot of rambling. Lots of reading, not a lot of comprehending, no experience going on.

I want internal pump.

I have 3 main options:

1) the typical 20gal tank is 24"L x 20"W x 10" deep.

This is a little too tall for fitting where the spare tire is. I really need a 7", but those are always 30" L. Doesn't fit there either. I've emailed a couple places and they say they're really meant to be installed the way theyre measured, can't really turn them 90*. I don't actually know though.

I can just cut the bed a bit (a lot) and set it above the floor a bit.

2) above mentioned 20 gal universal tank in the bed. I can go in the front of the bed (close to cab), or back of bed (by tailgate).

Which and why?

I want to look into having a custom cell made also. No idea on cost.



I want to use an aeromotive phantom kit with their foam sump/baffle thing: (start with a dual pump, with option to go triple in the future if ever needed, or switch the 340's out for 450's)

Dual 340 LPH Phantom Series In-Tank Fuel Pump Kit

P/N 18309: Dual PhantomDual Phantom Stealth Fuel SystemToday's aftermarket world makes it easy to pick up the phone and order 1000 HP for your street car. This has created several challenges for fuel delivery, ranging from hot fuel handling to pump noise. Aeromotive has accepted this challenge...

aeromotiveinc.com

3) OR, RCI has some tanks that are baffled, take the holley drop in modules, and use a hydramat in the baffle.

I'm a little hesitant there because I just don't expect the baffle to work in anything but straight acceleration, and I'm not really big on holley efi stuff. It did just occur to me that perhaps the baffle shown in actually boxed in, not open like shown. I don't actually know.

This option, I think I would have to put inside the bed due to the direction the baffling works?

I have room to put the 24L x 20W in the other direction in the spare tire area. As in 20L x 24W. But I don't know if the baffling would work turned that way. Still problems with the 10" depth though.

 

[ummduh]

I'm leaning towards just putting it in the front of the bed as it would have a minimum of cutting stuff up to work, look a bit less hack. But putting in the back of the bed would get me more weight on the rear tires.

And it would keep the tank out of harm's way.

BUT, it'd be out in the weather/sun, potentially contributing to hotter fuel.

 

[bobbywalter]

that....is a you problem.



me problem. i would run the biggest possible tank behind the axle and do whatever the rules allow to make it fit....or whatever the fawk i felt like doing that day.

dual 340 pumps......maybe a surge system.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Dual 340 Aeromotive phantom pumps will support like 700hp, that's what we use on the LT4 engines at work for the in tank pump setups... but that's regular premium dino juice not E85...

I'm a sucker for big tanks, wish my F350 had bigger tanks, the 21 gallon in the V8 Explorers is nearly sufficient but that size works better in a 4 cylinder Ranger...

 

[ITSA 7]

I put my 20 gal fuel cell in the bed back by the tailgate so I could reach it to fill it.
The batteries are back there too.

 

[ummduh]

I put my 20 gal fuel cell in the bed back by the tailgate so I could reach it to fill it.
The batteries are back there too.

I sometimes get hung up on over-doing some of this stuff. Putting the tank under the bed in all honestly only looks cleaner, doesn't really get me anything. It's not like I can use the bed for anything truck-like anymore. I keep forgetting that.

I'm leaning towards either the RCI with a holley hyrdamat sock in the provided sump, or putting a phantom kit is something else. I like the idea of the phantom kit more but the actual information out there about it is severely lacking.

Has anyone in here used the phantom kits with the foam baffle? @scotts90ranger ?

I don't see how the bottom of the setup works once fuel level falls below the level of the foam portion.

So far, i see that return fuel is put right into the baffle/sump, but how does it handle lower fuel levels? There has got to be a way for fuel to enter the sump at low fuel level.

I was also looking for the holley pump setup but there doesn't appear to be options for anything dual pump with that version.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I think you might be over thinking it... the foam tube sits in a rubber sock if memory serves, I can check tomorrow but it acts as a baffle and the rubber has holes about 1/2" up from the bottom to let fuel in. The foam goes from the bottom of the tank to the top and compresses between to act as a constant baffle. The sock on the bottom of the pump sits at the bottom of the tank and the instructions walk you through cutting the support to the right length to get you there. It's a pretty solid setup really, I have nothing against it... If I think of it tomorrow at work I'll snap some pics of what's in the box with an idea on how it works... you could even put it in a stock tank if the holes line up close enough or just put another hole in the tank.

 

[ITSA 7]

No experience with either. My truck was supposed to be a street "Street Toy" so I used a Speedmaster 20gal fuel cell with a QFT 230 pump, AN-10 lines to a 1050 QFT carb. Seems to work OK. Right now my boys have it installing a Broader C4 and a roll cage. Need warmer weather.