My Steering build kinda like superrunner

[Crashtest84]

Ok This build is from my old ranger but it worked great. I am going to build another for my new ranger but there will be a few changes for the new one. This one has heims but could have used TREs. The biggest bad design in this is that the drag link TRE to the pitman arm was welded in the tube. So when it needed to be replaced it wouldn't have been a easy fix. All the tube is 1 1/2 .190 wall if IIRC it might have .250 but I don't think it was.

Now right here would be a good place for an upgrade. Would be to have these cut out to be bent on a brake so that its like a few pieces of flat stock welded together. At the time its what I had to work with and kinda a prototype if you wanna call it that. Or if you wanted to run TREs then this would have to be out of solid stock and tapered.

Again this is on my old truck I no longer have. But I know this set-up had 3 yrs on it last I saw it and still working I think I have some flex shots of it I will look for them.

 

[Crashtest84]

found these 2

 

[Beef52751]

that is an awesome setup, i am thinking about building one myself

 

[legoms013]

I wondered whatever happened to this setup, thanks for the update Its good to know you finished it and have been rockin' it around for a while and didn't just abandon it...

 

[4x4junkie]

+1
Glad to see an update on this

I think I see Jeep coils in that pic... Hmmm

 

[Crashtest84]

+1
Glad to see an update on this

I think I see Jeep coils in that pic... Hmmm

why yes you do BDS 6.5 XJ coils best flex for the price..

Glad I can maybe help you guys out. I had forgotten how bad the stock steering is on a lifted truck. My lift came off a parts truck I bought so I have no idea what it is but I know its got a trailmaster pitman arm. Lol it was the only thing that had a number or stamp on it but. let just say its not near enough and my steering right now sucks.

But back to the design im thinking of moving the passenger side to the outside of the frame and it having a bend in the drag-link mount so that. One the drivers side can be a few inches longer and the " swing " will then hang at 90* angles. I did notice on the old sel-up that the frame to link mount would try and climb when a right turn was made. This makes and you can see why in the design.

 

[Crashtest84]

something like this

 

[Hagan]

Thats awesome! The steering really does suck on a lifted truck! So are you building these for us?

The mount on the boxed passenger side frame rail looks like a swingset style mount.

 

[Crashtest84]

Thats awesome! The steering really does suck on a lifted truck! So are you building these for us?

The mount on the boxed passenger side frame rail looks like a swingset style mount.

It is kinda the "swing set" has this on both sides on most of the ones I have seen. My goal is to make the steering pivots on the same plane and length as the axle. My old design fell short on the drivers side link. So by moving the center drag link to the outside of the frame nets that extra few inches needed.

 

[legoms013]

I did notice on the old sel-up that the frame to link mount would try and climb when a right turn was made. This makes and you can see why in the design.

What do you mean by this, I am curious

It is kinda the "swing set" has this on both sides on most of the ones I have seen. My goal is to make the steering pivots on the same plane and length as the axle. My old design fell short on the drivers side link. So by moving the center drag link to the outside of the frame nets that extra few inches needed.

How are your tie-rod angles at static ride height?

Both need to be longer it seems. From the looks of this pic that floats around, the driver's side tie-rod needs to be longer yet still, another few inches to get it out in front of the diff, but I see that would be sorta hard with a TRE connection at the pitman arm....might be more suited to a double shear setup with a heim there instead. Not as feasible if you don't wanna rework the whole setup though.

Just throwing that out there as an idea to consider if you are gonna modify it all anyway.

 

[Crashtest84]

What do you mean by this, I am curious



How are your tie-rod angles at static ride height?

Both need to be longer it seems. From the looks of this pic that floats around, the driver's side tie-rod needs to be longer yet still, another few inches to get it out in front of the diff, but I see that would be sorta hard with a TRE connection at the pitman arm....might be more suited to a double shear setup with a heim there instead. Not as feasible if you don't wanna rework the whole setup though.

Just throwing that out there as an idea to consider if you are gonna modify it all anyway.

On your question about the center drag link Im not really sure but I was letting a buddy drive and me spot. but I noticed that the "swing" or idler arm would push up. not sure if it was from the steering pushing on it in that direction or what but when you turned left it would pull then not push. its kinda a hard thing to explain I guess. But here is prob the best pic I can find of it setting at static.

 

[Crashtest84]

Ok this might give a better idea. In order to keep both links clear of hitting each other or the pitman arm. I offset the center drag link. in hopes of not having to bend anything but that didn't work. The red circle and arrow is the direction that the joint or link would try and push in. In a perfect world the center link need to be strait in line with the pitman are like the Green line.

 

[legoms013]

I forgot to add the pic in my last post in which I refer to. But see the red line, in an ideal world all our tie-rods would pivot there. Making them longer helps with the bump steer tremendously.

Yeah my idler arm does what you describe too (I think)...it sorta "walks" or wobbles up and down when a change of direction is inputted or under severe strain. Like when turning but not rolling, or when a tire is pegged up against a rock. I have eliminated most of it by putting an impact on the bolt and cinching it down super tight until the bracket captures the inner metal sleeve in the bushing so tight that it is basically part of the bracket....if it is the correct length then it does not hurt the bushing. Some if it is still there in severe situations...which bothers me cuz it feels like "play" in the steering but I have not built a better solution yet (I wanna do away with bushings and go to tapered roller bearings up there on the frame mount someday). I may SAS before that ever happens though lol.

 

[4x4junkie]

Making that upper tube on the frame end of the idler arm longer (putting more distance between the bushings) would get rid of a lot of that deflection. Being shorter (narrower) causes the bushings to compress more when force from the steering is put against it.

 

[Crashtest84]

Thought I would add this, this is the bushings I used. http://www.kore4x4customs.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=153&category_id=36&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54