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My new house


Roert42

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If the shelf sits flush with the studs I would use that to nail the drywall too.
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 7FA902352B4C01: April 5th, 2021

racsan

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we looked at a house a few years ago that had a garage added sometime after the house was built, one bedroom had a window, looking into the garage. I dont know why they didnt remove the window.
 

Rick W

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Ignore the long horn
Won’t that get in the way of the bed more than the shelf? Talk about horny!!

Regardless, I would match up the studs above and below. Two suggestions: cut the scab-in studs maybe 1/16” too long so you have to set them in at an angle and then tap them into place vertically to restore strength (not pound them in). It’s probably not a structural wall, but if you make it very tight, you won’t have to worry about wall cracks and such when you’re pounding the headboard against the wall (when you’re moving your furniture in I mean).

Along the same thinking, instead of toe nailing them in, get a handful of long wallboard screws, pre-drill the holes a little smaller, and then screw them in. You only need two screws per stud, one from each side, above and below, and that way you won’t crack the sheet rock with the hammering. It’ll only take you 10 minutes longer. An alternative is Liquid Nails construction adhesive and no nails screws. Put it on the ends and the frame before you tap them in.

Yes, use insulation, it’s not just about temperature, it’s also about preventing condensation (and mold) inside the wall.

Finally, if you talk to a couple local contractors or sheet rock guys, they can probably tell you how they created the texture. I suspect it might be as simple as mixing up a little thin spackling paste, cutting it with a little water, and then running a long hair roller over it. Or maybe the use a stipple brush and then sand the peaks gently when dry.

Second finally, Instead of taping it like a regular sheet rock joint, use some high-quality caulk, so you disturb less of the wall. It will become invisible when you put the texture on.

Third finally, when you texture the edges, don’t carry them across and up and down in a straight line. Run the line in and out, like a starburst, like you would feather paint on a car, and you should be able to make it invisible to anyone who isn’t looking for it.

My 2 cents, hope it helps.
 

Rick W

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This concrete pad is roughly 12' x 33'.
12x33 x 3” deep = 3.66 yards of concrete. Assume 4 yds with the turned down edges.

Same thing with 60# bags is about 175 bags of concrete.

Concrete is about $90 per yard, but assume $125 for 4,000psi with fiber. $500 plus about $60 delivery. $560 2-3 days work.

175 bags gets you the Home Depot bulk discount (112 or more) @ $3 are $525 plus all the ibuprofen. A work in progress next winter (and a year of mess).

Forms are about the same cost either way, $50? 1/2x20 rebar @$11 each = $44

& if you pour it 4” so you can park an F350 on it, add $100.

I’m not sure what you do, but I’m assuming you do it pretty well. Do 2-3 side jobs, get up $1,000 and knock it out in 2-3 days and save your back!!! Drink beer on it instead of digging your grave!!! (& think of all the extra time and energy you’ll have for the whole longhorns in bed thing).

As always, my 2 cents, hope it helps!
 

Dirtman

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we looked at a house a few years ago that had a garage added sometime after the house was built, one bedroom had a window, looking into the garage. I dont know why they didnt remove the window.
So you can lay awake at night looking out at your loved ones...
 

85_Ranger4x4

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So you can lay awake at night looking out at your loved ones...
Exactly.

If I had a garage against my bedroom and didn't have to run it thru a committee... I would install a window.
 

Jim Oaks

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I'd park mine in my living room and rename it the Ranger room.
 

ericbphoto

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Rick W

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😳 You guys don’t sleep with them in the garage??? 😲
 

snoranger

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😳 You guys don’t sleep with them in the garage??? 😲
You leave your Ranger in the garage? Is it at least climate controlled?
 

97RangerXLT

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If I had a garage against my bedroom and didn't have to run it thru a committee... I would install a window.
And 85_Ranger4x4's wife says:

AJ
 

MikeG

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Wall texture is just sheetrock mud, thinned out a little. How much you thin it and the size of the tip on the sprayer more or less control what you get on the wall. That and maybe the air pressure.

You can buy cans of the stuff to 'touch up' little areas. Get the water-based stuff if you go that route, and practice on something else first. Hint, if it isn't near-perfectly FLAT before you start, the texture won't cover much. Just like painting a vehicle, get all the prep work done right or it will look like you painted / textured over a gravel road.
 

franklin2

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Patch it as good as you can, then hang a picture over it.
 


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