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My New House & Workshop

Uncle Gump

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Lead, Follow or get out of my way
So your argument is that you think you're a good looking woman??
No... they were peeing in the urinals on either side of me!
 


Jim Oaks

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Bobby's a robot. He doesn't pee.
 

bobbywalter

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it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
I had the deluxe funnel in my old garage...

I had a couple drunk hot chicks come in the mens bathroom at a Detroit Red Wings hockey game and use the urinals on either side of me once. Surely that must count for something...

Ahhh....this I have seen before...


So....this one time at the lesbian gay bar with my lesbian sister and my wife........


Funnel still needs water chaser.
 

Uncle Gump

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Lead, Follow or get out of my way
I'm confused... did that place have a "mens" room?
 

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
I'm confused... did that place have a "mens" room?
No. A guy and a girl holding hands on the wall.....no door. Doors. Anywhere.


Yeah....today....no. But I was in my 20,s.....


Just didn't go like I would have thought....
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Screenshot_20210614-194957_Samsung Internet.jpg


TRS is so educational!
 

2drxploder

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Actually building over it's not a bad idea. I just have to figure out how to cap it. As old as the building is I'm guessing it's metal pipe and not PVC.
they sell a rubber plug, with threads and screw in insert. called t-cone plugs. install it mostly snug in pipe, knock down 3-4 inches and fill with concrete (not runny) to floor level. works like a dream, the other red one pictured above, will not go down in the pipe a few inches with out some help from a grinder or something similar.
 

1990RangerinSK

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they sell a rubber plug, with threads and screw in insert. called t-cone plugs. install it mostly snug in pipe, knock down 3-4 inches and fill with concrete (not runny) to floor level. works like a dream, the other red one pictured above, will not go down in the pipe a few inches with out some help from a grinder or something similar.
Seems to me that might be a nice spot for a cleanout. So, cut the toilet flange off, and install appropriate piece to receive the cap.
 

Roert42

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I would go for the wash sink, considering all the utilities are already there.

I would like a wash tub in my shop, but do not want to dig a trench that deep.
 

2drxploder

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I was assuming he wanted a smooth floor
 

Uncle Gump

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Lead, Follow or get out of my way
I'm not sure I would do anything to the toilet flange other the cap it and cover it up. You never know... a couple years from now you may want to install a bathroom again.
 

Rick W

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@Jim Oaks

I’m coming late to this dance again, I’m not getting the email notices on this one for some reason, no biggie.

A couple of thoughts: on the electrical box, some of these guys know electrical much better than I, but I vaguely remember you’re not supposed to run more than one circuit in any box for such residential after the main box or a sub panel. I think it’s code so that somebody doesn’t turn off one breaker and think everything is off and go digging in a box with a hot circuit. It’s not just a matter of whether the wires will fit or not.

Second thought on the bathroom light, that needs to be covered by your ground fault too. I think it’s anything electrical that you can reach, plus like one or 2 feet, so a light above the mirror would definitely be in the range.

I’m not finding fault with anything anybody said, but the only reason you have to seal that drain pipe is so that vapors don’t come back into the living space. I think you know that two bolts, one on each side of the bottom, unbolt them in the toilet comes up. It may be sticky cause it’s stuck on a wax ring. Then you can see what kind of drain pipe you’ve got underneath it.

On the toilet flange, if there’s some reason you have to have that floor perfectly flat in that kind of shop, even if it’s just what you want, let us know.

If you don’t want a bump in one spot, you can seal the drain, and then just build up the floor with some pressure treated two by twos, with plywood on top or such. You could do that across the whole floor, or you could do that across part of the floor. I think there’s a lot of wisdom in maintaining the flange for a later date.

If you keep the flange, it has bolt holes around it, so sealing it is as simple as making a piece of flat plastic, using a wax ring just as if it had a toilet on it, and bolting that flat piece of plastic across the top to seal it. Or you can use silicone, but the problem will be cleaning the old wax off the flange and pipe before you put your cover plate down. The silicone won’t stick to the wax.

If there’s no room to work on it, you can get a hammer drill and stitch out a circle or a rectangle around the flange, and then break it out with a hammer. You’ll also be able to find out how thick it is when you do that. Then, you can cut or just break up the pipe. You can lay some vinyl over the top, ideally wrapped around the pipe, but I don’t think that’s mandatory. Then you can fill up the hole flush with sand mix concrete or mortar mix. The vinyl is to prevent vapors from coming up, it doesn’t have to be waterproof. That point on your sewer line is high, so it’s unlikely any water would come up through there that you wouldn’t know about for 1000 other reasons, and if you simply put the vinyl down and then pour cement over it, vapor intrusion should be eliminated.

I put a toilet in my shop, and instead of a little hand wash sink, I put in the laundry tub. It’s been great for most of the 20 some odd years. My three or 4 inch PVC drain line from the commode has the bare minimum fall on it to intercept the line into my septic tank with correct fall. I didn’t catch it until too late, but a tree right outside of that bathroom has distorted the drain pipe in the ground, I can tell from the clean out. I’ve been debating whether I should pull the toilet and install a urinal, but nobody’s in there when I’m not in there and I’ve been baking sure people know they can only go number one. Obviously, if I could do it over again, I would’ve just planted the tree in a different place. But I’d love to have the capability of handling all my needs in there, including anything that might come up with a couple of hot chicks!

& the window looks fab!

My 2 cents, hope it helps!
 

franklin2

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@Jim Oaks
A couple of thoughts: on the electrical box, some of these guys know electrical much better than I, but I vaguely remember you’re not supposed to run more than one circuit in any box for such residential after the main box or a sub panel. I think it’s code so that somebody doesn’t turn off one breaker and think everything is off and go digging in a box with a hot circuit. It’s not just a matter of whether the wires will fit or not.
It's allowed to run multiple circuits fed by different breakers into a single box.

Second thought on the bathroom light, that needs to be covered by your ground fault too. I think it’s anything electrical that you can reach, plus like one or 2 feet, so a light above the mirror would definitely be in the range.
You are correct on this. Basically, stick your hand in the sink and reach around with your other hand. Anything electrical you can reach has to be ground fault, even the light if it's right above the sink and you can reach it.
 

Jim Oaks

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So how do I ground fault the light? Breaker??
 

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