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My Dana 30 SAS

982WDRanger

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centering axle

So got some more parts in, go almost everything I need to swap in my axle. Ill post up some pics of my long arm kit later, got it from ironman fab. I have a question on how to go about centering up my dana 30 in the front. Any good places to measure from for reference? Or just a basic how to guide from others who have done it before, any help would be nice. Thanks.
 


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Though I've never done it, I would guess the process involves something like the following:

Hang a a pumb-bob from the center of your coil buckets above.

Center your coil perches of your axle below accordingly (some like to push the axle a little offset like +1" towards the front of the vehicle as opposed to dead centered).

After that check your measurements by measuring diagonally from a constant reference point from the rear of the vehicle (say a leaf spring shackle mount) back to that same point of the lower coil perch. Diagonal measurements will ensure it being square with the framerails...unless of course you've wrecked your truck before (but I assume not :D)

So again it would be like measuring from the top rear rivet of the driver's side shackle hanger (that mounts to the frame rail), to the center (or the -1" from center) on the coil perch of the passenger side. Do the same for the reverse side and compare dimensions.
 

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So got some more parts in, go almost everything I need to swap in my axle. Ill post up some pics of my long arm kit later, got it from ironman fab. I have a question on how to go about centering up my dana 30 in the front. Any good places to measure from for reference? Or just a basic how to guide from others who have done it before, any help would be nice. Thanks.
All I did was measure the distance from rear axle on both sides to make sure they were even, and make sure both link mounts are in same place both sides, that will make it easier to keep both arms even length.

And with the IronMan arms, they have plenty of adjustment to fine tune everything.
 

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I just eye balled it for 10 minutes and then hooked the arms up and put the mounts up to a common spot on the frame and went from there. Good part about the arms is you can fine tune the axle under the front. Also had the coils help me out a bit too.
 

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Thanks for the input on measurements, it sucks because I don't have and easy starting point. I have no coil buckets for reference, and I have to chop out the curved part of my frame rail where my current coils sit. But measuring off the rear axle will work though!:icon_thumby:.

Started setting up my gears in my 8.8 last night. Think we have a good pattern, waiting on a friend to stop in and see what he says, more than one opinion is best for gear set up.:dunno:

Going to order my Dana 30 gears this week and have those in next week, then the build can begin.
 

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More goodies...!

Got some more gifts in the mail the other day, yaya..:headbang:

Iron Man Long Arms:
[/IMG]

Lower Link Mounts:
[/IMG]

Also have a better picture of my Dana30 all done up, just needs some gears.
[/IMG]

Took a pic too of the 8.8 getting its new teeth:D
[/IMG]

So all you guys running the iron man arms, how do you go about adjusting them. May sound stupid but do you start out all the closed or adjust them out a little then throw them on....? I got the double adjustable ones so I have a lot of room to play with, just want to get an idea of what I will be doing? And how to adjust for my new, longer coils.
 

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put your axle on stands under your truck, take a measurement and start from there.... perfect time to stretch the wheelbase a little if you want... as long as your steering and all allows you to.
 

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I left it to where i can have forward and rear adjusting. Mine i can move the entire assembly forward, i can move the top ones for more tilt and the same fot the bottom.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 

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put your axle on stands under your truck, take a measurement and start from there.... perfect time to stretch the wheelbase a little if you want... as long as your steering and all allows you to.
Like this

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2
 

982WDRanger

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Steering choices..

So I went with the ruff stuff GM 1-ton steering kit. I want to go with hi-steer but I don't want to change my knuckles or buy the expensive kit, so I figured just ream out my stock knuckles and go over the top instead of under. I know this work because a friend of mine did it for another ranger guy on his sas. He is running a TJ axle though, my question is are the knuckles on the TJ different from the XJ ones? The guys just reamed them out to fit the new tie-rod ends and bolted them on top and all was good, wheel clearance was close but doesn't hit or bind anywhere. Got any input?:dunno:
 

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Last edited:

escort_gts

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So I went with the ruff stuff GM 1-ton steering kit. I want to go with hi-steer but I don't want to change my knuckles or buy the expensive kit, so I figured just ream out my stock knuckles and go over the top instead of under. I know this work because a friend of mine did it for another ranger guy on his sas. He is running a TJ axle though, my question is are the knuckles on the TJ different from the XJ ones? The guys just reamed them out to fit the new tie-rod ends and bolted them on top and all was good, wheel clearance was close but doesn't hit or bind anywhere. Got any input?:dunno:
That's what I did but I used the knuckle inserts from RuffStuff. I didn't like the way it handled with the tierod ends. Created a dead spot in the steering. So I got rid of them and went with heim joints instead. Worked out better for me.

Not sure if knuckles are different between the TJ and XJ.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2
 

brinker88

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That's what I did but I used the knuckle inserts from RuffStuff. I didn't like the way it handled with the tierod ends. Created a dead spot in the steering. So I got rid of them and went with heim joints instead. Worked out better for me.

Not sure if knuckles are different between the TJ and XJ.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2
Tie rods won't create a "dead" spot. It was the way you had the steering set up that created that.
 

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Tie rods won't create a "dead" spot. It was the way you had the steering set up that created that.
Yeah, highsteer was the only way to fix that problem.

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982WDRanger

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Steering

Thanks for the heads up. I really like that BTF set up but I'm running coils so it won't work. Glad to see some one has already done this and found out it works, instead of messing up my knuckles and being stuck with buying new ones. Yea the tie rod ends won't create that dead spot, plus I don't like hymes, possible link of failure.

Heading out to finish up the 8.8, setting pinion pre-load and sealing it up. Dana 30 next week.
 

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