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my d30 sas


dangerranger83

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I will say the D30 is better then the D28 TTB, so as far as upgrades, that I did. Plus I got mine for free, but its still running CV shafts but I will replace them when I break them.
 


88_Eddie

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all i read was the OP, but if you work at a salvage yard and have access to any axle, why are you going with a d30?
 

legoms013

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all i read was the OP, but if you work at a salvage yard and have access to any axle, why are you going with a d30?
this ^

Its your truck, you can do whatever the hell you want with it, however I seriously wonder why so many here on TRS swap in a garbage axle such as the D30, the same axle everyone is swapping OUT of their jeeps.

makes no sense to me when the TTB D35 is only slightly weaker than its big brother TTB D44 found in full size half tons.....
 

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Jeepers are swapping them out when they go tons, which is a whole other game!!

I look at it as sas, as ive seen it prove itself many times. The one with the larger joints will handle 33's and 35's, which is all I plan on running. I'm part of a jeep club and have seen what d30's will handle. I've seen them pounded on. And yeah, I've seen them break also..
But for my rig the d30 is the way I'm going. It's the right width and bolt pattern. Keep a stock stance and I'm getting everything cheaper than it would cost me to do a d35 swap. Except the long arms-- which I'll probably make. TTB is a pain I don't want to have to deal with. I know it's plenty capable. But I've seen the d30's and d35's side by side on a trail.. Both with 33's and 4.10's... Both people driving same with skinny pedal. Neither broke. Then next time out I saw them both break. Both at the wheel joints.. Oh wait ain't they both 297x joints? On some of the d30 shafts are.

I'm not trying to make a buggy.. Or something to run level 5's that I'll need 37's for.. The d30 will fit my purpose just fine. And then if I break it or whatever I'll step up to a d44 solid axle next! But I'll be set up for it.

Plus on a jeep club run I'll have extra parts in the recovery trailer lol
 
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legoms013

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Seems like the D30 is one of two things for people, either it is a pile of crap that keeps breaking, or something that holds its own quite often.

My father runs 35x14.5's on a D30 with F150 outer hub conversion, and has not broken anything in 20+ years of wheeling. No locker either.

So I know it can hold up to some abuse (in my dad's case, 35's, Fordyce & Rubicon).

I guess for my own self I'd never consider it a viable option just cuz I have never broken anything on my TTB D35, and If I do I won't want to downgrade so to speak. I also possibly want to do a Cummins 4bt swap, so a D30 would be a major step in the wrong direction for that torquey, heavy SOB motor that the 4bt is. I'll probably go with a HP narrowed D44 if I ever get around to a SAS minimum.

If thats what works for you and is readily available, sure go for it. Post lots of pics we all wanna see...:icon_thumby:
 

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i'm a post whore..and a pic whore. lol

the d30 would NOT work for the 4bt lol..
and you also have to consider i'm riding on a d28 now.. not the d35.. and my donor explorer was robbed of the d35 parts, one axle, hubs, and gears... (censored.....)

so it'll take me money to have it swap worthy, then i still need good springs and new drop brackets (i have the Rough Country lift with drop plate)... i figured it up (not including long arms) and the d30 was cheaper! lol. plus its easy front end alignment, flexes plenty, and will hold 33's just fine with less of a mud plow effect. even tho i'm not doing a lot of mud stuff. i'm looking to be capable on 33's, nothing stupid.. i mean i've broke a d28 shaft just trying to go hunting.. unlocked, 3.73's, and 30's... something has to be changed
 

legoms013

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I hear you on the alignments, took me two years to understand how it all works on the TTB, along with how the bumpsteer, and suspension jacking/unloading/geometry works. At first its pretty confusing.

A solid axle is so much simpler.....but now that I understand my TTB and haven't broke anything I've decided to keep it, cuz it works for me just great, and probably will for a long time.

In much the same way the D30 will work great for what your gonna do with your truck.

Deep down inside me I want a solid axle for its simplicity and addition strength/clearance benefits that they offer over the TTB. For me its not even about flex....I have plenty of that.

My buddy has a V8 Grand Cherokee with the D30/D35 axle combo and I will say, I highly prefer how the TTB rides over a solid axle...its independent abilites are much appreciated on my long drives to and from work/school.

If I had the money though i'd do a SAS in a heart beat....as wells as a 4BT.

To each his own. Like I said before, my father has never had a lick of trouble with his D30. And he goes on some hairy trails.

Everything has its purpose/application.
 

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hahaha half the jeeps i've been in with the d30 sas ride better than my b2.. but i have those RC springs that are rated at like 550 ppi or whatever..its stupid stiff.

i understand why people question the d30, the people that just say "you know the d35 is just as strong(or stronger) and bolt in affair right".. don't bother me.. its the people that go on and on and on about how i shouldn't do it b/c of this and this and that. and most of them have never even seen a d30 really used before.

kinda like doorgunner ( i think) and his chevy motor in his ranger.. ya know? legoms- you've been fine about it i know. i mean the others mostly. lol. we had a nice discussion on another thread about the d30 swap, that actually turned into a lot more than it should have mainly b/c a couple misunderstandings.


anyways, i'll get off my soap box for the night. its 12:42, probably time for bed lol.

..why is it called a "soap box"?? lol
 

dangerranger83

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Now if I had a D35 in my truck originaly, I wouldnt do a D30 SAS. But thing about a SAS that I like is its not bolt in, something that you have to custom build, thats just who I am a hands on person/problem solver. Sure I had alot of help from TRS but it didnt answer all my questions, every SAS is different.

Point being is if your going to do a SAS, make sure your doing an upgrade from what you have now.
 

legoms013

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Now if I had a D35 in my truck originaly, I wouldnt do a D30 SAS. But thing about a SAS that I like is its not bolt in, something that you have to custom build, thats just who I am a hands on person/problem solver. Sure I had alot of help from TRS but it didnt answer all my questions, every SAS is different.

Point being is if your going to do a SAS, make sure your doing an upgrade from what you have now.
^ this
 

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so $400 is as cheap as a d30?? i just paid $100 for a d30 w/ 2 sets of shafts.

on that waggy d44 you have to mod it make it fit, you'd still have to regear and all that... then still have to do something on a rear axle to make it match up. (width and bolt pattern)
 

mhughes165

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good luck man, just had to replace another set of jeep rears in my buddys yj, thats the third set in three months... and thats only on 33's, and he drives it on the street
 

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good luck man, just had to replace another set of jeep rears in my buddys yj, thats the third set in three months... and thats only on 33's, and he drives it on the street
my XJ is just fine so is my buddy running 33"s on his no problems.


as for the OP get a HP D44 from a early bronco or jeep wagoneer. the D30 is stronger than the stupid D35 IFS crap in the front of rangers. even with 4.88s in mine i have not broken anything on my D30 LP. however i went through stacks of crap on D35 IFS.

would go for a coil over vs leafs but thats just me. it would not be that much more difficult especially working in a junkyard and having access to everything.
 

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