MY build thread...'88 Bronco II Desert Rat Patrol Edition: 1/26/24 update!

[Peter Griffin]

Got my MONSTER axle nut socket, 2 5/16ths and 1/2 to 3/4 drive connector so I could get the driver's side off, and the weight/heft of the socket and breaker bar were enough to get it started without putting practically any weight on it, whatsoever...

Got the bearings replaced and everything put back together and got if off the stands/lift for the first time in at least a month, if not longer. I wanted to take it for a very quick, very slow/easy test drive and see how everything was working.

The engine seemed down on power and was almost "tractoring"/"dieseling"...like when a plug wire comes off. No backfiring or anything but it definitely was running better before. I checked key on/engine off and engine running codes and had a 22, which I do not believe I've had before.

Looks like all my vacuum lines are good from what I can see, but maybe all the futzing around threw something out of whack. The MAP sensor is inexpensive enough, but I'd hate to replace it if I'm missing something that's a free/easy fix, so any suggestions are appreciated!

On a side but related note it "handled" night and day different. I didn't exceed 40 but there's no doubt the new bushings, body lift/mounts and suspension have made a HUGE difference. It's massively out of alignment right now from the looks of it as I expected, but I was gonna wait to get it aligned once I have the new wheels/tires on...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I bought this socket many decades ago... just cause the price was right. Still haven't used it...but it only cost $5.00 (~1990).

 

[Peter Griffin]

Ugh...

I replaced the MAP sensor with a brand new Motorcraft unit and I'm getting the same code (22) and it's running NO better.

It's SLOW and feels like it's topping out around 45, I did NOT want to take it out on the interstate (75 MPH) and see if it could go any faster. My wife said she saw blue smoke when I was leaving the house, that'd be a first. It smells like it's running really rich, even with the brand new catalytic converter/exhaust system (and O2 sensor)...

Just frustrated because it ran pretty strong when I got it and had no issue do 80+, so something is definitely up and I've read countless stories about guys replacing widget after widget and not fixing the problem. I've basically put 12 miles on it the last few days which is the firs time it's been actually driven for several months since I started working on it...

Any suggestions are appreciated, I know there's a zillion different things it could be, I'm thinking it's something stupid/easy (and I've already checked everything since I did the valve covers so I'm at a loss...), thanks y'all!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Don’t know if it could be the problem, but I have heard of the computers popping capacitors that can cause all sorts of problems. Might be worth taking a peek, even if it’s not the source of your problem, it is 30+ year old electronics.

It’s always a pain chasing problems.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

 

[Peter Griffin]

Don’t know if it could be the problem, but I have heard of the computers popping capacitors that can cause all sorts of problems. Might be worth taking a peek, even if it’s not the source of your problem, it is 30+ year old electronics.

It’s always a pain chasing problems.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Funny you should mention that...both points actually!

I found the vacuum line under the throttle bottle was almost completely backed out. It was still seated, but just barely, slid it in flush and I thought that it started and idled better, but when I took it for a ride it was no better.

My interior is completely gutted so the ECM is exposed. There's been at least 2 occasions that I can specifically remember where I was futzing around in the passenger foot well area and either the radio or motor died suddenly when I was checking the ECM's connection(s) when I was previously chasing that issue that ended up being the steering column wiring harness...

I'm looking at this one as a possible replacement, 4WD/auto with regular fed emissions should be fine, yeah?

More Information for CARDONE 784479

www.rockauto.com

It's not exactly a straightforward process to test the computer...and although it's cheap my modern standards I'd dislike spending another $150 to NOT fix the problem!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Funny you should mention that...both points actually!

I found the vacuum line under the throttle bottle was almost completely backed out. It was still seated, but just barely, slid it in flush and I thought that it started and idled better, but when I took it for a ride it was no better.

My interior is completely gutted so the ECM is exposed. There's been at least 2 occasions that I can specifically remember where I was futzing around in the passenger foot well area and either the radio or motor died suddenly when I was checking the ECM's connection(s) when I was previously chasing that issue that ended up being the steering column wiring harness...

I'm looking at this one as a possible replacement, 4WD/auto with regular fed emissions should be fine, yeah?

More Information for CARDONE 784479

www.rockauto.com

It's not exactly a straightforward process to test the computer...and although it's cheap my modern standards I'd dislike spending another $150 to NOT fix the problem!

So… first I would start with opening up the computer and see if there’s visual damage (usually when capacitors go, they burst and it’s very noticeable). There’s also a ground connection near the computer on the body, a bolt with a couple wires. I’d pull that apart and clean the connections. Grounds can cause all sorts of wonky stuff. Cleaning and improving ground connections is usually very high on my list of things to do when anything is acting up. Clean, sand, wire wheel, new wire if I’m concerned it might have corrosion in the wire (“green” wire issues) and slather the connections in either dielectric grease (auto parts store, usually in a tube around the RTV silicone stuff) or no-alox (hardware store electrical department, it’s used for installing aluminum wire to prevent corrosion). My choptop the main battery grounds corroded in the insulation and caused a lot of trouble because the wire visually looked ok.

The other thing I would try before buying another computer would be to find a buddy with the right computer in a working vehicle or a junkyard that would let you try a computer out of an ideally wrecked truck (then you know it worked). Not always possible to do one of those, but when you can, it’s a good way to double check.

 

[RobbieD]

If yours is like my '90 B2, the ECM main ground is close to it, a ring terminal under a bolt in the passenger kick. Make sure that that ground is clean and tight.

I wish that I had the '88 Powertrain and Emissions Manual. That manual would give you a point-by-point troubleshooting guide for the code 22.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Also, when it comes to vacuum leaks, I’ve never been very successful with the usual methods. Haven’t tried it yet, but I got a smoke machine off of EBay so I can pump smoke in and look for where it leaks out. Seems like a better method to me…

 

[Peter Griffin]

Thanks VERY much @RobbieD and @lil_Blue_Ford, I appreciate it.

It's worth mentioning that I've previously found water in the passenger foot well, I never chased it since, well, it rarely if ever rains here anyway and it wasn't causing any issues but I planned on using this article to have at it:

Bronco II Water Leaks - Bronco Corral

Having problems with water leaking in to your Ford Bronco II. Here are the known areas that are prone to leaks.

www.broncocorral.com

Occam's Razor all day!

I might have another "funny" story for y'all regarding the A/C, stay tuned for more dumb-assery from yours truly!

 

[Peter Griffin]

Update, I'm still at it, dealing/dealt with the A/C and engine running issues, and came to a "brilliant" conclusion after dealing with the A/C in particular...!

Not being cryptic, just super busy and the 100-degree temps are definitely here and I'm trying to move the interior/stereo and exterior cosmetic part of my build inside the garage but I won't do that until the mechanical is completely handled...(you gotta give me the dashboard though, I just had to do that after @Shran hooked me up HUGE!

 

[Peter Griffin]

OK...11 pages in and I don't expect people to search through this rat's nest to figure out what's what...but anyway...

When I first bought the truck the A/C was disconnected, there was an aftermarket (aluminum) radiator and when I went to flush it I found NO thermostat and a section of PVC pipe stuck inside the lower radiator hose as a ham and egg makeshift adapter of some type.

The motor issue I was having was actually the result of the distributor cap crapping out and only firing 4 cylinders; those plugs got fuel soaked so a tune-up was in order with plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil and it's now running like $5 (that's good thing...like when you unexpectedly find $5 in your pocket you didn't know you had...).

So I got the A/C charged and the e-fan that came with the (new) aluminum radiator can't move for air and the A/C eventually shuts down when it's idling from the high pressure getting WAY too high as the engine starts to run hot...not overheat but run hot. I take the e-fan off and reinstall the stock fan (which, AMAZINGLY, I did not throw away...) and it the same thing happens, only it heats up slower.

That's when it dawned on me that there's no shroud for the fan. Now everything is making sense. So after being unsuccessful in locating an OEM shroud (which likely would NOT fit the aftermarket radiator) I buy a universal one and get it to fit and mounted in 3 of its 4 mounting tabs and add some Royal Purple Ice to the fluid.

With those 2 things the temp drops probably near 30 degrees and is running between the "O" and "R" on the NORMAL scale where before it ran with the needle dead horizontal between the "R" and the "M".

At this point I'm considering starting over with the cooling system and going with a new OEM radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses and MAYBE a 180 thermostat (which I previously said I wouldn't do) and try to find an OEM shroud or repurpose the universal one I'm using now. Hear me out...

Where I live in the extreme SW desert in AZ our peak summer daytime temps can get up to 115+, so with the high 90s/low 100s I'm experiencing now it's still a ways off. While most of my off-roading is "high(-er)" speed, I'm very concerned that the engine temp stay under control with A/C blasting. During the winter overnight low temps are high 30s/low 40s with daytime temps in the 60s/70s.

Speaking of the A/C, it's gotten as cold as 45 degrees coming out of the vent and with the hottest ambient temperatures and the engine idling/vehicle not moving it's still staying under 50 degrees.

I also got sidetracked working on my in-laws Kia SUV so it can road tripped here this summer and I figured after my wife let me buy Race Ramps AND the Quick Jacks, that was an easy decision to keep her happy!

I'm SO close to turning a corner after getting the hard(-er) work done and getting the fluids changed (oil, transmission, differentials and transfer case) and probably the wheels/tires and an alignment before attacking the interior/stereo and finally the exterior (bumpers/LED lights/Raptor lining) and then tint.

WHEW!

 

[Peter Griffin]

LONG azz day yesterday and it was probably the most productive and satisfying since I started this project...

Not that I got anything particularly difficult or complicated done, I just felt it was a milestone since I started.

Since I had just done the brakes on my in-laws Kia I thought it was just a good a time as any to at least flush mine, since the pads/rotors (and rear shoes/drums) look decent. That's NOT to say I won't install new ones in the not so distant future; they're just not a priority at this time.

The brake fluid looked filthy in the reservoir, and looked even worse once I started draining/flushing it.

Very root beer colored...but not any more!

I understand that when you flush you're supposed to work from furthest away from the reservoir to closest, but since the ABS valving/module is on the left rear frame rail I worked off of that and started right front, left front, right rear, left rear. NO air bubbles and I flushed it well beyond what I needed to and it took less than an hour by myself, taking my time.

I decided to change the oil next as the engine was cooling off from a quick fluid warm up ride, having added ATS oil treatment to carbon clean the inside of the motor, figured it couldn't hurt. I also added some ATP AT-205 stop leak to the new oil for insurance while I was at it...

Both of those additives were extensively and exhaustively researched before I decided to use them, and for relatively short money they're certainly not going to do any harm and have shown in independent testing varying degrees of effectiveness sooooo why not?!

Found out when I was doing the oil change that the filter uses the same tool as my Hellcat. Coincidence? I think not!

I did NOT know that the front diff only had a single plug for drain/fill, so I figured that out rather quickly. Pumped out the sludge that was in there and added Motorcraft limited slip additive along with fluid. Did the rear diff next and checked the fill plug FIRST to make sure I could get it out and it looked/felt like it never had but nonetheless came out with a lil encouragement. From the looks of the fluid, which was also sludge-like it had never been serviced before, but it did not have a gasket and the cover was RTV'd in place which I didn't think they would do at the factory. Got a brand new gasket from O'Reilly's and took my time torque sequencing the cover back on and likewise fill it up with the Motorcraft limited slip additive and gear oil.

Did the transfer case last and I'd be surprised if it had ever been done. The fluid was watery brown...it wasn't low on fluid, just garbage. That ended up being the easiest/fastest of tasks for the day.

Forgot to mention I determined the cause of the CEL, which I've NEVER had before and only experienced it after the A/C and plugs/coils/wires/cap/rotor service. Not sure how, but as soon as I got underneath it to position the Quick Jacks, the O2 sensor wiring harness was hanging down, unplugged...so I plugged it back in, DUH. The CEL was showing up consistently at just under 10 minutes of driving so after doing all these fluid services and fixing that I was hopeful I wouldn't see the CEL again; and I didn't, so that's handled.

Tomorrow I'm gonna grab my new wheels/tires and get an appointment set up for an alignment. I'll be working on the round headlight conversion and AOR front bumper install along with putting the stock one back on the rear since it doesn't look like their rear bumper still isn't available for sale...although @Uncle Gump has one on his and it looks awesome!

Feeling really good about this project right now and appreciate everyone's help...I obviously needed it!

 

[Uncle Gump]

I gave you the contact name at AOR.

Did you just ask him if they would just do one like mine.

My goal was to have them use me as a test subject and have it available for anyone who wanted it.

 

[Peter Griffin]

I gave you the contact name at AOR.

Did you just ask him if they would just do one like mine.

My goal was to have them use me as a test subject and have it available for anyone who wanted it.

I heard back from Brady and he said he'd put me on a list once they're available...that was about a month and a half ago and I was hoping I would have heard something by now but I'll be the squeaky wheel!

Did have a ride height question though...

I'm currently at 35.5 inches front left, 35.75 inches front right, 37 inches left rear and 37.25 inches right rear. This is without an alignment and what's now a massive amount of positive camber. I'm seen 2-inch coil spacer kits but I was thinking 1-inch would be better but haven't seen them available in that size anywhere and I don't want to get an alignment until I get this figured out...thoughts, suggestions, etc.?

 

[Peter Griffin]

Thanks to @Uncle Gump, AOR is now going to be offering a matching rear bumper to match their front, which is AWESOME. Super high quality construction, art quality like welds and ridiculously affordable (gee, where they'd get their company name from...?) pricing.

Elite PreRunner Front Bumper-Ford Ranger (’83-’88)-Ford Bronco II (’84-’88) - Affordable Offroad

DRY FIT BEFORE PAINT

affordableoffroad.com

Also like to shout out @Jim Oaks. His BII XLS project is coming along very well and should be inspirational to anyone like myself doing likewise:

Project B2 Marauder 1984 Ford Bronco II XLS

Gauges: I decided to replace the instrument bulbs with LED bulbs. The old incandescent bulbs give off a yellow light. The gauges have blue bulb filters, but the yellow hue of the light make the gauges look green. The new bright white LED bulbs give the gauges their true blue color. I also...

www.broncocorral.com

I LOVE his round headlight conversion and he immediately responded to some questions I had since I was going to copy him directly, using the same exact headlights and mounting rings, (spoiler alert, not the only thing I'm copying him on either!).

Jim also mentioned the Satin Nutmeg Rustoleum as his paint of choice...so now it's mine too! I test sprayed one of my dash pieces and really liked how it came out so I did likewise with the rest of them. My plan is to paint ALL interior plastics/moldings with this paint and a warning for anyone in the 928 area code...if you're looking for this paint; there ain't any left, I bought all of it! MUHAHAHAHAHA

I have the Coverlay dash cover and door panels which are similarly colored, just darker. Anyone who owns an Eddie Bauer will tell you there's several different tan colors used in the interior so I'm not concerned that they all match exactly, because the new black carpet and dashboard/gauge face overlay will contrast nicely along with my Kryptec Highlander seat covers, which will incorporate all of these tan/earth/desert colors...

Not trying to make this sound like an interior decorating HGTV show but with the amount of time and money I have in this project it looking right/good is definitely a concern of mine....

Went to Discount Tire to get my wheels and tires ordered, unfortunately the wheels are nationwide backordered for at least 4-6 weeks. I went with these Black Rock style 997 because they're satin, black, Teflon coated and relatively inexpensive:

Discount Tire | Tires and Wheels for Sale | Online & In-Person

www.discounttire.com

For tires, I went with my old standby, KO2s for the win! 31x10.5x15:

Discount Tire | Tires and Wheels for Sale | Online & In-Person

www.discounttire.com

I have 1.5-inch front coil spacers on the way to address the excessive (in my opinion) rake and Skyjacker's extended sway-bar end links since the stock ones won't work with the additional spacer AND their dual steering stabilizer.

So grinding away at getting the headlights done, painting interior pieces, (re) finishing the front suspension and likely gonna do rotors/drums, pads/shoes while I'm waiting for the wheels/tires to come in.

REALLY excited that it's coming together and I've had more help from the folks here than I could have ever imagined; @Shran helped me out huge with my instrument panel fiasco after I broke my tach needle and @2Krngr sent me A/C manifolds FOR FREE (after I threw mine away by mistake) that he pulled for me in a junkyard when he was grabbing other parts. Who does this?! Hardcore enthusiasts who are clearly helpful, selfless folks...

MUCH appreciated y'all!