My 99 Ranger Build Thread

[sgtsandman]

I chose to mount my fire extinguisher on the back wall in the center where I could easily reach back and get it.

With you current layout. I have no suggestions on cup holders at the moment.

As far as ignition key location. There looks like there is plenty of room on the center console for one next to the switch panel.

 

[RJLougee]

Very nice setup!! I like the tools all snug in their beds....

Unfortunately, I have very little range of motion in my shoulders, so trying to retrieve a fire extinguisher from the back, one-handed, is not going to happen.

I need to have it in front, available from either side.

I have accomplished several things, just haven't posted pics yet. I'll get to that in the next couple days. We are trying to move, so spent most of today driving around and looking at houses/property.
Joe

 

[RJLougee]

So here is a question, I've tried searching, but can't seem to find a useful answer. How much does a '99 Supercab weigh? Just the cab section, even one full of all the junk they come with??

I am trying to figure out how much this thing weighs, so I can calculate spring rates and this one is a puzzle. I am estimating 600# for cab/hood/fenders/grill, etc..., but I think it's probably less than that.
TIA, Joe

 

[RJLougee]

And on to an update, looking at what I have accomplished this week vs. what I have pics of..... man, I am way behind on my pic taking.

One of the big accomplishments, although a pretty big PIA, was taking the ORI struts apart and getting the oil level set, etc... I had knocked them over and dented the schraeder valves, so they needed replacing, which pretty much means you have lots some oil, and if the oil levels aren't equal they................ Anyway, fronts are done for now and I'll be getting to the rears shortly.

 

[RJLougee]

Got the dropout pulled (it was only in for mock-up), installed the Lube-Locker gasket, reassembled, and added fluid. 50/50 of Mag 1 full synthetic 80w and dino oil 85-140w.

Before doing the same to the front, I had to swap out the fitting for the ARB. This is the fitting for the stock plastic airline, which I never run. I use the coated, braided lines for Independent4x4, which use a slightly different fitting.

Here that fitting is in, with the airline and all buttoned down. It does come close to the frame/trackbar bracket, so I'll cycle the susp[ension when I put the ORIs back on and make sure it all clears like it should.

Got the cover on, Lube-locker installed and added oil the same as the rear.
Joe

 

[RJLougee]

And on the broken back E-brake cable, I decided to try a little something else. Instead of replacing the cable, I cleaned it all up and put a 1/4" nut over the cable end and fillet welded it up. It was certainly hot enough that it should hold!
Joe

 

[RJLougee]

Got the center "console" to the 90% solution, key is in, winch plate in, battery disconnect switch is in. I installed another switch panel, that will be where all the lights will be controlled and I'll leave the 8 bank panel for stuff I need to switch more often, such as the OBA, ARB and Trans Fan. Trying to lay out some of the wiring, feels like I'm making more mess than I'm solving so far. I also ordered some spiral foam padding for the rollbar, seems like it'll work pretty well.

 

[RJLougee]

This picture does not do justice to the exhaust system. It's set with 2.5" pipes from the headers, O2 sensors right after the collectors, runs around and meets on the passenger side, 2 into 1 3" by the transmission pan. Then a fairly short 3" glasspack muffler and a quick bend of the link mount to dump down. It's a good 3.5' in front of the rear diff, so heat shouldn't be an issue. If it is, that's a future problem. Hopefully it won't sound like someone put a lawn-mower muffler on their tuner car....

 

[RJLougee]

Fuel system is in and lines run. AN-8 feed lines, to a 100 micron filter and the low pressure pusher, up to a Walbro HP pump and a WIX filter for EFI. Necks down to AN6 after the high pressure pump and the silver AN6 lines on the return side back to the tank. It's all just zip-tied up for now, still have to install the clamps/holders.

Also got the wiring to the back started. I have 7-wire trailer wiring that I'm using.

 

[RJLougee]

Put the front fenders/grill back on to make sure everything cleared, good news, it still does.

Also, the main batteries arrived. This is a bit of an experiment, we'll see how it goes. I like to have two batteries with me, since I always carry a Ready-Welder and it likes the 24 volts. That thing has saved me and friends more times than I can count. I have literally welded a D60 tube back to the housing after it broke the plugs welds on a buddies rig and walked out on a trail... Anyway, I have been running a pair of Werker 33AH AGMs; however, these are really lightweight Lithium Ion batteries, 72 AH, 380 CCA per. The pair of them are 7" x 7" x 5" tall and weigh about 7#. Just waiting on a better battery box and they will sit against the firewall under the resting location.

 

[RJLougee]

So I did have a successful oouting to the 'Yard, found these and brought them home with me. The only down side, someone had removeds the mounting hardware/screws form one side. Anyone know the correct part numbers??

 

[RJLougee]

I did get the radiator installed, with a lovely brace. However, yesterday I put fluid in it and it started to leak (Arg.........). So, after draining and cleaning up the mess, I took it to the shop today and we'll see if it's repairable.

And the part that worked out well, the OBA stuff is all set. S,mall 2 litre tank, with a pressure switch and wiring/plumbing for the ARB solenoid.

 

[bobbywalter]

they are listed on the googles

 

[RJLougee]

Your Google-Fu must be much better than mine. I cannot find any listings of new parts, but a couple of used sets on Ebay, but for $15 per...... Not happening. I'll hit another of the local semi-u-pulls and see if I can't find some.

 

[RJLougee]

And time for an update... Been a busy couple of days.

Got delayed by a radiator leak. Filled it up and it started leaking from a small nick in one of the tubes. Drained it, pulled it, took it to the local shop and $55 later, all fixed and pressure tested to 20#. Got it installed and no leaks now.

Got the ORIs all cleaned up and replaced the lower fluid to spec. Had to replace a couple of the schrader valves because I left the caps off and they got knocked over by my knucklehead dog.... Guess I'm really the knucklehead there.... Anyway, ORIs installed, then charged. Front/Rear got 90# in the bottom, fronts got 400# in the top, rears got 200# to get to the correct ride height. I'm sure I'll have to add more to the rear once I get the spare, fuel, tools, etc... in place.

Ride height good. Measured everything to make sure it would all clear. 114" wheelbase, 19.5" clearance under the belly, 77" at the top of the roll bar, sitting on the 40" old school MT/Rs.

Then on to the brake system... Checked all of the brake lines, tightened up where needed and bench-bled the master cylinder. Then gravity bled all of the lines. No issues with the back, but the fronts were not interested.... So I made up a quick tool, drilled/tapped a flat piece of 1/4" steel and put a schrader valve in it. Added a few #s of air pressure from a bicycle pump (same trick works pretty well if you have a hydraulic clutch that doesn't want to bleed. Add a valve to a spare cap). That got it going... So brakes should be fairly easy to bleed once rolling.

Went through the PS system and tightened all those parts up, then added fluid. I'm sure it'll need more once I start it, but a good start.

Pulled the distributor out and primed the oil pump and let it roll for a bit to make sure the oil was in all the bearings. Then pulled all of the spark plugs out and cranked the engine over several times. Batteries worked great, but more importantly, it didn't puke anything out of the cylinders or blow a gasket/bend valves. It's been a couple years since this engine has run, seemed good prophylaxis...

So it's almost there, at least very close to inital start/run. Have to check the fuel system, add fuel, program the EEC and connect a couple of wires......
Fingers crossed....
Joe