My 87 Ranger I will be restoring soon I want to keep track of my progress and add information as I find it.

[JoshT]

JoshT…. If you were the one asking I meant it for the Fuel Door, I meant it for you then. I must of misread the post.

I figured you meant it for me. I just wasn't sure if you were saying that you'd found the unicorn fuel door, or if you were telling those other two guys that I Was the unicorn buyer.

Checked the truck today and the rear door does mount the same way, to consider it sold. I'll send you a PM with addredd for shipping quote and stuff.

 

[Terrys87]

I got a fender from the boneyard on. The aftermarket fender I had bowed to far past the door and a big gap between the fender and door. Got my brake slave cylinder replaced. I sanded a lot of the surface rust off that has come on it since last summer. I did get some primer and this winter truck is getting painted. Fender was really the hold up. Just would have not been happy with it.

Looking forward to winter to get a lot of shop time in and this Thanksgiving I want to get something’s done.

 

[MaicoDoug]

Been working with sheetmetal (16 gauge) 1/16th thick & tried the cold wet rag trick on a heated section in attempt to fix a "bow". It worked. Used a small propane torch, got the paint smoking (not even close to dark red hot) and smashed a rag drenched with cold water on it, it shrinked up and now the panel is straight. Looks great, will be watching. Happy Thanksgiving.

 

[Terrys87]

Thanks MaicoDoug. I would like to learn how to form metal better. Hope you had a great Thanksgiving.

 

[Terrys87]

My clutch pedal has been getting spongy. I tried bleeding the system. I am hoping just the Master Cylinder is at fault. I am eventually going to pull transmission this winter to fix rear main and just do a complete clutch job. Just got to get the time to do it.

 

[Terrys87]

I tried bleeding air out of the system using a vacuum pump. I did get a few bubbles and thought I might have it fixed. Test run said No!! It felt solid sitting in the shop but think I get to change the master cylinder. Hopefully I can get to it after work this week.

 

[Terrys87]

I have a little vibration when braking. Hoping not a warped hub. Haynes Manual values seem a little high. Anybody have some suggestions. YouTube seems to use a lower torque spec.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

View attachment 120624
I have a little vibration when braking. Hoping not a warped hub. Haynes Manual values seem a little high. Anybody have some suggestions. YouTube seems to use a lower torque spec.

Which torque spec are you referring?

 

[Terrys87]

Opps Sorry. The front 4x4 hub nut. It says 35, back a 1/4 turn and then 150.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Opps Sorry. The front 4x4 hub nut. It says 35, back a 1/4 turn and then 150.

Yes, that is the correct value in the book. But experienced members use 250 lb/ft instead of 150.
@4x4junkie
Apparently prevents loosening of the nut.

 

[SenorNoob]

Note that is 35 ft-lbs, back 1/4 turn, then 16 in-lbs for the inner nut. That's pretty accurate. It's barely on there.

Then 150 Ft-lbs for the outer nut. I get mine as tight as I can without tearing the lockwasher on the inner nut.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yes, that is the correct value in the book. But experienced members use 250 lb/ft instead of 150.
@4x4junkie
Apparently prevents loosening of the nut.

Note that is 35 ft-lbs, back 1/4 turn, then 16 in-lbs for the inner nut. That's pretty accurate. It's barely on there.

Then 150 Ft-lbs for the outer nut. I get mine as tight as I can without tearing the lockwasher on the inner nut.

Yes, this is correct. The inner nut is just barely snug, then the outer nut gets cranked on after that. With big tires, they occasionally do come loose from 150ft-lbs.
Lately I've been using 225ft-lbs on the outer nut... Awhile back I did have a nut break while trying to reach 250 (maybe it was a fluke, it happened only after dozens of times doing it). But 225 seems to work also.

I didn't review the whole thread, but if you're running near-stock size tires (31" or less), 150 will likely be fine.

 

[Terrys87]

Thanks guys, it seems really loose with those values but I am glad tos ee you guys with experience stepped in to let me know the correct numbers.

I did tighten as described and I think I have a warped hub. Probably the original hub and needs replaced anyways. I have had them turned in the past but that just makes them thinner and easier to warp again. Guess new hubs are next the order list soon.

 

[Terrys87]

I looked at manual and YouTube for tips on 1st gen trucks. Not much out there. I remove the inner fender. Then dropped reservoir and the two bolts holding the Master Cylinder.

I just pulled the Push Rod out of Master Cylinder. This made it easier for me to use frame if truck to drive the pin out of master cylinder.

Then I nailed it to the wall, filled with new fluid, and the primed it with a screwdriver.

Here I am using frame and a small punch to get pin out.

Per instructions do not install Push Rod until it is in truck. Clutch works again but it really have to push it to floor to disengage Clutch Safety Switch. I did not get a picture of my switch but will when I receive new switch. It looks different than what I see on YouTube. I reinstalled my Safety Switch just by sliding rid thru the switch. Also someone had my Safety Seitch zip tied so that could be part of my safety switch issue v

 

[scotts90ranger]

The bench bleeding like you did with it nailed to the wall really needs to be done with the hose disconnected from the transmission and hanging from the bottom of the master cylinder as an assembly, it's possible to bleed them in the vehicle but it's a complete pain... it sounds like you have air in the system...