My 4.6 swap

[mkats]

The fuel system for the truck starting at the tank is a warblo 225 lph pump. I had to modify the fuel pick up a little to get it to fit. Then while i was in there i had to cut the line for the factory in take fuel pressure regulator. If you don't do this your fuel pressure will be stuck at 70 psi. (ask me how i found out)

Moving forward out of the tank I used the two factory lines that would connect to the duel in, single out factory filter that comes on the pickups. I removed that filter and replaced it with a factory filter, that came on the older style trucks that had a return style fuel system. From there it got a little interesting. I used a combination of factory lines and fitting ends to get me to where i have the an lines. Looking back on it i think it would have been easier to just run the an lines at least back to the filter. O well live and learn.

The an lines carry the fuel up into the engine bay where the connect to a Aeromotive 13129 fuel pressure regulator. Then from there it goes into the factory 4.6 mustang fuel rail.

 

[mkats]

Alright here is the photo bucket link.

http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/mkats88mustang/library/2000 Ford Ranger v8 build and more

This is not all of it just what i had on the computer at the time. It will be updated.

 

[gsp]

nice work!

 

[mkats]

Next on the list was power steering lines. I used a 98 Lincoln mark 8 pump. No real particular reason. It appears that all or most of the 4.6 and 5.4 pumps are the same. But instead of a pressed in rear suction hose this mark 8 fitting was adjustable.

I used both of the ranger stock power steering hoses. The both hooked right up to the mark 8 pump. I also used a power steering reservoir off of a explorer... I think. I cant remember what i pulled it off of. But it has both the suction and return line on the bottom of the reservoir.

I used a relocation kit for the oil filter. I used the on 3 performance kit. It is used on their 2v turbo kits. I didn't like the barbed fittings and replaced them with some braided stainless steel lines from summit.

http://www.on3performance.com/shop/on-3-performance-2v-3v-4v-billet-oil-relocation-kit/

I also hooked the stock ranger oil pressure gauge into the relocation block. So now my factory gauge works.

This kit also moves the lower radiator hose closer to the factory location for the 05 up mustangs. I tried a 03 crown vic lower neck and the mark 8 lower neck but both of those ran into the upper control arm mount.

I then mounted the factory ranger temp sender/switch in left hand side of the 4.6 block. I removed the the factory screw in plug. And Threaded the factory ranger sender right in.

 

[mkats]

Then i went on to mount the computer. I built a braket out of aluminium and used the factory holes that mount the air box on the stock ranger set up to hold it in place.

I then decided to build a cold air intake box for my JLT 110 set up. This intake on a mustang would turn to the drivers side. But because of the way the intake is built it can be easily flipped. So now it turns to the passenger side. This is because the battery is in the way on the ranger. And so now i needed to make a intake box for it to help keep that air cool. Other wise whats the point of a cold air intake.

So it started with a plastic tool box that i cut into pieces. Then put a big hole in the one end to fit the tube in and then put some rubber weatherstrip on the edges that seal up against the hood and on the inner edges of the box. There is also a stamping in the ranger inner structure that i cut along the edges to help it pull more air in from the fender area.

 

[INT3RC3PTOR]

nice clean work! Love the steering. I will have to pretty much copy that on my Ranger with the motor and space I will have going on. Cab off work is the best way!

 

[mkats]

nice clean work! Love the steering. I will have to pretty much copy that on my Ranger with the motor and space I will have going on. Cab off work is the best way!

Thanks. The steering was not that hard to do. But i did manage to screw up on it already. So a word of warning to anyone that builds their own steering system. Make sure the steering wheel is centered..... Because there is no other way to align the wheel. I just fixed this tonight.

Any way what motor are you putting in that justifies a relocated steering system?

 

[INT3RC3PTOR]

Lsx, But also i have big shock hoops that made even torque monsters not fit when I had a 5.0. But i may move my motor back some to help that. I was always just planning on running long tubes and building steering around them. A turbo/turbo front facing manifolds could help too

 

[mkats]

Next was wiring. I spent a lot of time on this one. It started out using a combination of The ranger harness a 2005 mustang engine harness and filler wire was a crown vic harness that by buddy let me destroy.

The plan was to use the factory ranger relay box and leave it untouched and run all the wire thru the factory 42 pin connector on the ranger. Using the stock ranger obd2 port to communicate with the computer. And using a SCT handheld with a custom start up tune to get the PATS wiped on the computer.

But this is good proof that things do not go as planed. After long nights and no luck getting things to run. I was stuck. I had tried two different computers with no luck. I was not getting the electronic pedal to work right and I was getting no injector pulse.

So i decided to kind blow up my budget a little and I bought a Ron Fransis 3v swap harness. And due to my local tuner really pushing my buttons by completely ignoring me i decided that i was going to tune my own vehicles from now on. So i bought HP tuners to do all the tuning.

After going through some hic ups with the Ron fransis harness. I was able to to program the computer. But i was still not getting any spark or injector pulse. And all the other sensors checked out good. So after a lot more screwing around, I think i figured it out. When i made my harness i managed to screw it up bad enough to fry two computers. So i sent the one in to get tested. Sure enough The computer was bad and non repairable. So I ordered another computer, number 3.

So that brings me to a few weeks ago when i posted the video of the truck running.

 

[mkats]

Another thing for the wiring that i have figured out recently. I had wanted to use all the factory gauges and make it look stock. Most of the gauges are no problem. The gas and battery gauges are unchanged. The speedo on this year runs off the rear end (i think). and i used that factory ranger temp and oil pressure sensors and wiring and just found a nice place on the 4.6 for them. but the tach was one that i was not sure how to do. If anyone knows these systems they communicate all over a BUS network. And that Factory tach signal is sent over that BUS system to the factory gauge cluster. Along with a lot of other things.

Well my solution was this cool little box made by Dakota Digital.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-sta-1000

It plugs into the obd2 port and reads the BUS signals and then outputs a tach signal, a check engine light and, speedo too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVYIISbuBgc

 

[INT3RC3PTOR]

It plugs into the obd2 port and reads the BUS signals and then outputs a tach signal, a check engine light and, speedo too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVYIISbuBgc

pretty slick! nice work

 

[hoosier1104]

Very nicely done.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

[mkats]

speedometer questions

Alright I am to the point where I don't have a lot more to tell. And have some questions for everyone.

I am running into a speedometer problem. It does not work and I have an abs light on. I would normally just plug the scanner in and read it but i cant. Probably due to the fact that there is no computer anymore. I have read about the rear speed sensor going bad but mine seems to be acting right. It is out putting a AC voltage anyway. I would think that the speedo would work with out the Engine computer. As i have read on the forum this year ranger has the speed signal sent straight to the GEM module. Where it then goes out to the speedo and computer. If is so happens that it will not work then i can just use the Dakota Digital box to out put a speed signal to the cluster. But...

This brings me to another question. According to my HP tuners software i am not receiving a speed signal form the trans. I am running a M5OD R2 out of a 1998 f150. It has the electronic output speed sensor with the gear drive on it. And my ron fransis harness speed sensor plug, plugs right into this speed sensor on the f150 trans. Now my assumptions were that the both put out an a/c voltage. And i could adjust for the speed with the HP tuners and a GPS. But again The sensor seems to be putting out a AC voltage. Now i have learned that i have an auto computer right now and the OS needs to be flashed to a manual so everything works right. So maybe this is part of the problem.

So if anyone has some ideas that would be awesome.

 

[mkats]

Alright been a while since i have posted about my swap. I have been driving it around for a while with a few little hiccups but nothing to bad.

Number one I had a bad vibration issue when driving anywhere above 45 mph. I did some looking and had found that my my pinion angle was 8 degrees off. So before i went through the work of cutting off my mounts i thought that i would try a rear leaf shim first. So i ordered a 8 degree shim from summit and put that in there and If fixed the problem.

Next problem was a small fuel leak that i fixed by replacing my ebay cheap AN lines with some good quality AN fittings and lines.

My speedometer did not work after the swap and i thought that it was due to the removal of the stock computer system. I had a ABS light on but i had no way to read codes. Well i started doing some testing and found that i had a bad pin in the gang connector under the cab, for the 2 wire sensor on the rear end.

A few things that i am working on fixing yet is the brakes. If you read my other thread about my brembo brake front upgrade and the conversion to disc in the rear. You can assume that i now need to move a lot more fluid for the brakes to apply. But i'm not sure if i need a bigger master cylinder or if i need to move my pivot point on the brake pedal.

And the last problem is i still have a little computer issue. i currently am running a auto computer and it will not allow me to rev past 3500 to 4000 RPM. with the help of HP tuners i have flashed a manual tune onto the computer but it will not start. I am now going back to Ron Francis on this one because Eric at hp tuners said that everything he has tried with me has worked before.

But besides all that i have probably around 300 to 400 miles and it has not left me stranded.

 

[mkats]

Fuel mileage If you care.

So since i now have a working speedometer and trip i thought that i would give you an update on what i am currently getting for fuel mileage. This number is with the original 3.73 gears that came with the explorer rear end that i got. I have since changed them out for a set of 3.08 gears to drop my RPM going down the high way. I also feel that doing this has made the truck better to drive. Its more like a car and less like a truck. So my average was 22 mpg. I hope to see this number go up a little with the lower running rpm down the high way but only time will tell. I hope to weigh the truck shortly to give an idea an what has changed. I have a before number along with a rough guess of front to back weight.