My $3,500 Jaguar - The 'Mad Jag'

[sgtsandman]

Jags are a nice looking vehicle. I’ll be nice and just leave it at that.

 

[fastpakr]

How's the Jag doing lately?

 

[Bobber64]

FYI... The ‘98-11 long bed Ranger wheelbase is pretty close, if you’re interested in making it better.

Yup I’m thinking air ride 4-link front and rear with at least 6” of lift.

 

[Jim Oaks]

How's the Jag doing lately?

I had to reattach the hood ornament because the wire that holds it rusted and broke. Had to run a new wire through the ornament, down through the hood, through a spring, through a round dish type spring retainer used to hold the back pins in drum brakes, and then crimped on a wire holder that slides up the wire.

Actually been driving it this past weekend. It's the first time I've driven it in months.

 

[Chapap]

I'm very happy you bought that! I've been eyeing this era Jag for 15 years. The last time I was in the market for one I chickened out and got a Grand Marquis. I'm thinking about it again for my 4 door ride. According to the florida prices I'm seeing, you got a heckova deal on that!

 

[oldgeek]

I'm very happy you bought that! I've been eyeing this era Jag for 15 years. The last time I was in the market for one I chickened out and got a Grand Marquis. I'm thinking about it again for my 4 door ride. According to the florida prices I'm seeing, you got a heckova deal on that!

The handicap tag is more appropriate on the Mercury.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Adding A Backup Camera To My 2005 Jaguar XJ8:

I've been driving this quite a bit lately.

I installed a backup camera but didn't want to use the suction cup mount on the windshield, and there wasn't room on the console because I have a mount there for my phone, so I stuck it to the dash with heavy duty Velcro.

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The camera bracket sits behind the plate with the camera hanging over it.

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The camera wire goes up into the trunk lid, goes through a rubber wire loom into the trunk, through a gromet in the center where I ran my antenna wire, and then follows the carpet trim panel along the driver side to the dash.

The power wiring proved to be a bit complicated.

Most vehicle lighting is grounded and comes on when you apply power. Jaguar for some reason sends power to the lights, and then activates it by grounding it.

The Orange and Green wire is the backup wire, but it's always hot (+). Once the car is put in reverse this wire is grounded (-).

​

To solve this problem, I used a relay. I didn't come up with this. I found this on a Jaguar forum.

This is how a relay normally works.

​

This is how I wired the relay on the Jaguar. This doesn't seem like it should work, but it does.

Relay:

30 To Brown / Green Wire (Tail Light)
86 To Brown / Green Wire (Tail Light)
85 To Orange / Green Wire (Backup Wire)
87 To Camera

​

It seems wrong to have power going to (85) when it's supposed to be a ground. It seems wrong to have power on both sides of the coil (86 & 85). I used a relay with a built-in fuse holder.

When the car is put into reverse, the Orange / Green wire (85) grounds the relay and sends power through (87) to turn on the camera.

So, when I prepared the relay, the two yellow wires are going to attach to the cars Brown / Green wire with a wiretap, and the white wire is going to the cars Orange / Green wire. The power wire for the camera will go to the empty prong (87) on the relay.

In case you noticed, there's marks from a marker on one of the yellow wires. Sometimes I put hash marks with a permanent marker on a wire so I can use it and tell it apart from the other wire of the same color.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

Adding A Backup Camera To My 2005 Jaguar XJ8:

I've been driving this quite a bit lately.

I installed a backup camera but didn't want to use the suction cup mount on the windshield, and there wasn't room on the console because I have a mount there for my phone, so I stuck it to the dash with heavy duty Velcro.

View attachment 107314
View attachment 107315
View attachment 107316
View attachment 107317
​

The camera bracket sits behind the plate with the camera hanging over it.

View attachment 107325
View attachment 107324
​

The camera wire goes up into the trunk lid, goes through a rubber wire loom into the trunk, through a gromet in the center where I ran my antenna wire, and then follows the carpet trim panel along the driver side to the dash.

The power wiring proved to be a bit complicated.

Most vehicle lighting is grounded and comes on when you apply power. Jaguar for some reason sends power to the lights, and then activates it by grounding it.

The Orange and Green wire is the backup wire, but it's always hot (+). Once the car is put in reverse this wire is grounded (-).

View attachment 107319
View attachment 107318
​

To solve this problem, I used a relay. I didn't come up with this. I found this on a Jaguar forum.

This is how a relay normally works.

View attachment 107321
​

This is how I wired the relay on the Jaguar. This doesn't seem like it should work, but it does.

Relay:

30 To Brown / Green Wire (Tail Light)
86 To Brown / Green Wire (Tail Light)
85 To Orange / Green Wire (Backup Wire)
87 To Camera

View attachment 107322
​

It seems wrong to have power going to (85) when it's supposed to be a ground. It seems wrong to have power on both sides of the coil (86 & 85). I used a relay with a built-in fuse holder.

When the car is put into reverse, the Orange / Green wire (85) grounds the relay and sends power through (87) to turn on the camera.

So, when I prepared the relay, the two yellow wires are going to attach to the cars Brown / Green wire with a wiretap, and the white wire is going to the cars Orange / Green wire. The power wire for the camera will go to the empty prong (87) on the relay.

In case you noticed, there's marks from a marker on one of the yellow wires. Sometimes I put hash marks with a permanent marker on a wire so I can use it and tell it apart from the other wire of the same color.

View attachment 107320​

I do this all the time. The coil on most ice cube relays are not polarity sensitive. I even use them to trigger 110 loads. In our tour bus builds. Our 12v lighting system has channels for block heat, coach charger and bay heat. Ibground 85 and send 12v trigger to 86. The break the 110v line feeding these loads across 30 and 87. But most backup systems I deal with all have a negative trigger for some reason. So I have to do the same. Canadian buses, hahaha. Man if you ever have any questions about that kinda stuff feel free to reach out. I'm always up to help out.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yeah, makes sense, the control side of most relays other than some special automotive types just have a resistor in parallel with the magnet coil for flyback, some engine computers or control stuff needs a diode instead of a resistor which is the only reason 85 and 86 would be polarity sensitive. 30 and 87 or 87A are only directional when you are using 87A or you are really getting creative switching things on and off... The switch contacts are rated to more voltage than the control side as mentioned above...

 

[Jim Oaks]

Well one of the H7 LED bulbs I installed lasted 2-years and died.

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I replaced both sets with a pair of Lasfit H7 LEDs. @LASFIT is a forum sponsor. Hopefully they last longer than 2-years.

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[ryan]

Inspiration?

 

[Jim Oaks]

View attachment 111387

Inspiration?

Here's my favorite inspirations:

 

[Jim Oaks]

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Installed the Skyjacker 2-inch Jaguar XJ8 lift kit.

Just kidding. The air suspension was giving me problems and I finally got tired of it and replaced the air struts with a coil strut conversion.

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The ABS and Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) stopped working. I figured it was the wheel speed sensor. Turned out to be a bad connected on the frame behind the wheelwell liner, so I cut off the old one and spliced in a new one.

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Installed new rotors, pads and calipers all the way around. There was barely any pad left on the rears.

Now for the problem....

I couldn't get the caliper to fit over the pads on the drivers side rear. I made sure the piston was screwed in as far as it would go, and made sure the pin was lined up with the notch in the piston. I ended up sanding some of the pad surface off until I could get it all to fit together.

I took it for a test drive and the right rear is dragging and getting hot. Took the caliper back off, checked everything and put it back together, but once I apply the brake, the right rear is still dragging.

I opened the bleeder to see if that would release the brake which would be a sign of a bad brake hose, but that didn't help.

The car has an electric parking brake, but I checked and it releases tension when it's disengaged.

Now Im just stumped. I'm wondering if I bought a bad caliper?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Don't force it, just get a bigger hammer

And get a shirt on...

 

[Curious Hound]

There was a thread in our forum a couple months ago where people were discussing varying quality of brake pads and calipers and stuff not fitting right. It’s probably not limited to Rangers. Maybe try another set of pads or sand those a little bit more. Is it so tight that you can’t turn the rotor by hand?