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My 2000 Green Ranger 5.0 lowered AWD


lil_Blue_Ford

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So, y'all are gonna have to bear with me a hot minute on getting this all posted and updated. I'm using my laptop for typing this all out because it's going to be easier but most of my pictures are on my phone, tablet and desktop. Which means I'll have to bounce back and forth to get everything the way it should be. Anyway, on with the show...

I'll keep updating current specs in this first post. Just to keep it simple. Scroll through thread to follow along with the whole build.

2000 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab, automatic, 4x4 4.0 was the original spec.

Currently:
5.0 swap out of an Explorer (actually took the whole drivetrain)
Torque Monster headers
4R70 from donor Explorer
AWD t-case from donor Explorer
Front axle from donor Explorer with 3.73 gears
8.8" rear from donor Explorer with disk brakes and 3.73 gears with factory limited slip (replaced clutch packs plus stuffed extra clutches)
Aluminum rear diff cover with main cap truss
Heavier leaf packs
Lowered (somewhere around 4" so far, still working out details)
Custom rear hitch bumper
Custom front bumper in the works
2001 front grill with aftermarket headlights that have sequential turn signals
Custom center console
Some stereo work
Probably a lot of stuff I'm forgetting at the moment...

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lil_Blue_Ford

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Back a few years ago, February of 2017 to be more precise, I was in need of an automatic transmission to drive after my hip surgery. I was open to a number of options at the time, but I was really kind of looking for a specific thing. A 1999 or 2000 extended cab 4x4 automatic 4.0 Ranger because I wanted to do what I've done. I was really hoping to find a blue or grey one, but I ended up with the Forest Green. Previous owner had painted from the lower body line down in gloss black which I have to admit I think looks pretty nice. 2000 Ranger, just what I was after. Previous owner also had done some stereo stuff, had a huge system with a DVD player in the dash and screens on visors and stuff. When I got it, he took the amps, 6x9's and subs. He left the rest, which I had to re-work a bit. It also came with a problem, it would fire right up cold, but when it got hot after driving it, it was a hard starter at best and sometimes outright refused to start until it cooled off. Multiple key cycles wouldn't change that. I figured there was a flaky sensor or something and went on the hunt as best I could, but this was right after surgery so it took a bit. Neighbor brought down a fuel pressure gauge one day and we found the fuel pump was the culprit. I was trying to figure out how to handle replacing the pump when my girlfriend at the time asked me if I could put up a light fixture for her brother who happened to be a mechanic, so we traded and I had a vehicle.

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One of the first things I ended up doing was replace the third brake light with a smoked LED one since I had a cab leak and somewhere around then I had a shock mount shear off so I took it up to my new friend's place for him to replace the shock mount too. Unfortunately when he was knocking some rust off the frame, he went right through the frame with his screwdriver. A closer inspection showed that the entire rear frame section was rotted to junk and someone had done a sneaky job of hiding it. I can't really blame the guy that I got it from, he was selling it to replace it with a minivan because they were helping some elderly family member and he only had the truck for less than a year if I remember correctly. So I'd like to think that he really had no idea of the hidden frame problem. At any rate, we ended up getting a frame section from a junkyard and doing a half-frame replacement. That was an interesting process, on the face it's a massive project but it really was pretty straightforward.

The 1998-2011 Rangers had a two-piece frame that joined at the front leaf spring hanger for the rear axle. There is two rivets on the top and two on the bottom of the frame rails there plus the four rivets through the bracket, so it was just a matter of torching the rivets off the donor frame section and off of my truck after supporting the frame under the cab with jackstands and obviously removing the bed. That crossmember that the red shop rags are on is the stiffening brace for it all and that is connected by the top and bottom rivets. Otherwise it's just a lot of bolts.

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85_Ranger4x4

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lil_Blue_Ford

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For the first few years of having the truck, it was mostly just maintenance work on the truck and putting the stereo back together. Ended up building a custom center console since the one the previous owner built had no cup holders and a pair of up-facing speakers which I thought was a great opportunity for my German Shepherd to step on a speaker (he never did). I don't have the new center console finished yet, but it has cup holders and the speakers moved to the sides. I made cardboard templates for the sides and I've been working out the rest as I go. I also ended up building a couple different sub boxes for the extended cab as I played with things. Mostly just a lot of experiments because both myself and my buddy were into all of that years ago so it was a lot of dragging out old equipment and hooking it up to find out what was what.

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I was also working on collecting parts to do the 5.0 swap. What I really had hopes of doing was to get a donor Explorer and to build the motor to a 331 stroker before putting everything together. Well, that all came apart when I had a suspected rear main seal leak on the 4.0 and the transmission started slipping bad plus puking fluid. By that time I had ended up dragging an Explorer home, but after getting started on the engine swap, I discovered I had a less than suitable donor on my hands. A bit of searching online yielded a potentially better prospect so it was off to the far side of Ohio for that one, which turned out to be less than ideal as well, but the price was right and it was good for trading what wasn't going to work for what would (basically converted a 97 to a 00). A lot of extra steps and it wasn't exactly where I wanted to end up, but it works. I also managed to get a line on a set of Torque Monster headers. They were "used" but looked like they had been run on an engine stand and boxed back up.

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That all prompted a realization of my childhood dream of a V8 powered "mini" truck. So I straight up stripped the donor Explorer and went to work on my Ranger. The idea was to lower the Ranger and use as much of the Explorer goodies as possible including using the disk brake 8.8" rear in the Explorer format as SUA (Spring Under Axle) with the sway bar, traction bars, and the like. Plus I wanted to do it as an AWD for traction and of course the Explorer front sway bar was a nice upgrade. Note, the blue and gold Explorer was my original donor plan, but it was less than ideal and actually in perfect shape so I picked up the white one since it was in rough shape to be a better donor.

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lil_Blue_Ford

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*warning: might take me a hot minute to dig up the appropriate photos for this post* *edit - some photos up, still digging for more*

Started my whole process with stripping apart the front end of my green Ranger, including the fenders, fender liners and rotted core support. Figured it would be a lot easier to do a lot of the work with the front end fully tore down. I was also able to pull the 4.0 and 5R55 trans all in one shot. I dropped the transfer case off to make it easier to pull. Then I went to work tearing the rest of the front end apart, including removing the front axle. I did a little bit of patch work and repair while I had things opened up including cutting the upper A-arm mount back by the firewall off on the passenger side and welding the one from the Explorer donor in (mine was rotted pretty bad, but oddly the rest looked perfect). Rust belt problems.

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Wanted to at least replace the valve cover gaskets on the Explorer 5.0 and I needed to pull the upper intake to swap fuel rail and injectors (remember, this is a 97 return system with lower fuel pressure and I had to convert to the higher pressure returnless system). When I pulled the intake and valve covers, I snapped bolts. Not the end of the world but I wasn't really happy about that. I also decided to change the spark plugs while I had very easy access. Seven plugs came out nice (they were badly worn and obviously hadn't been changed in awhile, if ever). The last plug snapped the threads off in the head. I got the center out, worked at it with lube, an easy-out, a small chisel, hammer, and a small torch. After a few hours of effort, I thought I was making progress and then the easy out snapped off. I tried to fish it out with no luck and I tried to give it a couple sharp hits with a punch to try and shatter it but nothing worked. I thought about trying to weld a nut to the whole mess at that point but was worried about making things worse. So I tore the heads off and gave them to a neighbor who said he knew a guy who could extract the broken bits.

While I was at it, I decided I might as well replace the water pump, but of course, another broken bolt. I figured I could get at it by pulling the timing chain cover and that I should probably give the chain a check while I was at it. Well, in the process of wiggling the timing chain cover free, a corner broke off the cover. Just my luck. Timing chain was stretched too, so I guess it was a good thing. Also I found that the cam sensor was broken, which is amazing that the Explorer ran as good as it did when I bought it after finding all of this. The good news was that the cylinders still had factory cross-hatching and virtually no damage. At least the bottom end was in good shape apparently.

Neighbor's guy looked at things and decided it was above his level, so eventually I got them back in the same shape they left, so I went to work on extracting the broken bits myself with a torch and a welder. I also tracked down replacement bits that I needed including new stainless bolts for everything I could (yes, I am well aware of the whole dissimilar metals and corrosion stuff and know how to handle it). While it was all apart, I did a quick and dirty valve grind job, new gaskets and seals and a general clean-up. After I got everything as ready as I could get it, I stuffed the 5.0 minus upper intake and still attached to the 4R70 transmission in my Ranger. Then began the task of putting everything back together.
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lil_Blue_Ford

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I continued getting the motor together in the truck and the front end back on. A new radiator/core support went in since mine was rotted to junk. I chose to bolt the new one in instead of welding and used a pile of 1/4" stainless bolts since that will make any later servicing or replacement of the motor easier. I also chose to replace the factory Ranger battery tray with the plastic Explorer tray, which aside from needing some bolt holes drilled, fit rather nicely. The 65 series battery was a little tight on the ABS module and the one ground bolt on the core support. I bent the ABS module bracket slightly to allow room and at some point here will also change the ground bolt for something more compact since I changed how the ground bolt in dad's one Ranger is and I think it would be a good option for mine.

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Also during this whole process I decided to invest in some new stuff. I bought a bunch of -6 AN PTFE braided line and fittings to replace fuel lines and other stuff. I bought some larger AN stuff to rebuild some of the heater lines since the ones with my motor were rather rusty. While I was at it, I also got a lever style brake flaring tool to make new hard lines with Ni-Copper line. The lever style flare tools are far superior to the standard cheap double flare tools. I spent the extra for the 37* AN die set for the tool as well.

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@sgtsandman came over to help me get some things handled with the project. I didn't get much in the way of pictures, but he manufactured up some brackets for me for mounting a different transmission cooler. Had to make a few adjustments to things, but I managed to mount a transmission cooler out of a 2007 F-150, which is over twice the size of the stock Ranger cooler. We also got a bunch of other stuff handled.

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I also, against my better judgement, jacked up the back of the truck and put that on jackstands as well. There was a lot of work to be done on the rear suspension and changing out the rear axle to the Explorer 8.8" rear.
 
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lil_Blue_Ford

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I also decided on doing an 01 front end conversion to get the honeycomb grill, better headlights, and the powerdome hood (which I still haven't put on yet). I replaced the header panel with a junkyard one which only required minor trimming to fit around the cooler. My 2000 hood fits everything but the front lip is wrong for the grill. That will get corrected when I get the 01 hood on the truck. I forget now exactly where the break is, but the 01-03 (maybe 04) use a plug for the turn signals like the 98-00, just only one plug instead of two. I bought some neat aftermarket headlights which have a combo LED C-bar driving light/sequential turn signal which said they fit 01-11 only to find that there was a break somewhere along the line which changed the plug for the turn signals. I couldn't find the same headlight assembly with a different plug since most of the aftermarket lights fail in the fact that the plug changed. After a bit of deliberation, I bought a pair of pigtails for the newer style turn signal and clipped the factory harness back behind the two stock plugs, then used some Weatherpack connectors to splice the newer pigtails in. This gives me the option if I ever need it to just add Weatherpack connectors to the factory harness bit that I cut out and plug it in to return to factory.

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In other electrical news, I also had to mate the Explorer starting/charging harness (I tore it apart and rebuilt it with new wires for the starter, the 4-ga power and ground got replaced with welding cable) with the factory Ranger harness. Anyone who has done this knows that the plugs are entirely different. It took awhile to decipher the wiring but eventually I figured out how to do it and made up a jumper harness out of junkyard plugs.

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lil_Blue_Ford

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I got the front fenders on and most of the front end put together, then one day I was going to work on it and it looked like some of the jackstands and jacks had shifted slightly, so I took some time to carefully reset so I could jack it up a little more and start getting tires back on. It was at this point where disaster struck. I forget the exact count, but I had something like 5 jacks and 9 jackstands under the truck. I carefully jacked it up in the front enough to get a tire on, and when I went to turn away to grab the tire, there was a crunch and down the whole thing went. The tailgate was down and slammed into a lawn tractor parked behind the Ranger, denting the tailgate and jamming it with tools. To add insult to injury, a jackstand went through the bottom of my gas tank and with the tank essentially on the ground, there was nothing to be done but to hurry up and try to jack it up somewhere. Apparently the tank was pretty full because I managed to save over 10 gallons and there was a LOT that flooded all over. When it went down and I discovered the punctured gas tank, I honestly thought really hard about just striking the lighter I had and get it all over with.

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After jacking it up and catching the gas that I could, I got tires on it again, one at a time, and winched it back forwards where it needed to sit. Somewhere in the whole deal I discovered that the frame rail had landed on a bench vice I had sitting under the truck when it went down, which crunched the frame really bad. I had saved a frame section from when I got the rear frame piece that I replaced a couple years prior. I spent weeks searching everywhere multiple times for it. You would think that a roughly 3' long chunk of frame wouldn't be all that hard to locate, but I still can't find the dumb thing. After a lot of searching and trying to find other solutions, dad volunteered the use of his wrecked Ranger as a frame section donor. So I yanked the bed off of that truck, got it all secured, and did the same with my Ranger. Then the surgery started...

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I decided to take the opportunity to reinforce the frame section and protect it from rust before putting it in. I also ended up taking the gas tank off a parts truck we had to replace mine that now had a hole in it. Then I decided to do some plating on my frame on both sides to help deal with rust...

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lil_Blue_Ford

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With the frame repaired and the bed out of the way, I decided it was a great time to make some more adjustments to the rear suspension. Additionally I figured it would be a good time to cut the spring perches on the rear axle and the traction bar mounts so that I could adjust things to get the correct pinion angle and the correct locations for the traction bar mounts since I wanted to use the Explorer 8.8" as a spring under axle and with the Explorer goodies. So once again with some help from @sgtsandman , we got after it.

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I should also mention that the 8.8" got new outer bearings and seals, new brakes all around, new clutches in the factory limited slip plus I did the mod to slip in a couple extra clutch disks for improved operation. Full synthetic oil went in as well, 75-140 if I mind right. The cover is a Perfect Launch aluminum cover with a truss for the main caps.

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I also discovered that my changes resulted in my driveshaft being too long. After a lot of debate, I chose to cut it and weld it myself. Then I took it to a local spring/driveline shop for balancing. It wasn't perfect, but it worked and didn't take much to balance. On the positive, I didn't get charged much for the balance but on the downside the tech blew a hole tacking on the weight so now there's a weld slag BB rolling around in my driveshaft, lol.

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Since time was then growing short in trying to make it to the TRS Roundup in LBL last year (2023), I hustled along with getting things together and up to get exhaust custom made. The exhaust is all stainless, Torque Monster headers into 2.5" pipe, stainless aftermarket cats, Magnaflow crossover muffler (want to say it's the 18"), and dumps behind the rear wheels on both sides, but tucked up under so it's kind of stealthy. The rumble it makes, is not so stealthy. I probably should have gone for a longer muffler to tamp that down some and not make it so obvious.

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During all of this, I also worked on trying to get my Choptop back into shape, but that will get it's own build thread when I can get back on my desktop computer where all the early pictures are stored. I tried hard to make the TRS Roundup but I ended up limping into a friend's in Ohio puking power steering and transmission fluid. After a couple days of struggle, I gave it up and after hanging out there for a few days, I returned home to resume working out the bugs from my build.
 
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JoshT

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Did you just bypass the A/C high pressure switch? I did basically the same jumper harness, but ran wires from it up to the core support to plug into the Explorer switch location.

I also decided on doing an 01 front end conversion to get the honeycomb grill, better headlights, and the powerdome hood (which I still haven't put on yet). I replaced the header panel with a junkyard one which only required minor trimming to fit around the cooler.
I'll be doing the same, but went trhe opposite route. The power dome hood is installed with the 99 nose. I've gotten my hands on the header panel and headlight clips. I've got a co-worker that says he's going to give me a grill, but it's missing the honeycomb insert and we haven;t gotten together to get it yet. Grabbed the honeycomb insert on my last pick-n-pull trip, along with assorted trim pieces for that area. Just need to buy a set of lights, and I want to go with a 2006+ bumper assembly that I haven't managed to locate yet.

I forget now exactly where the break is, but the 01-03 (maybe 04) use a plug for the turn signals like the 98-00, just only one plug instead of two. I bought some neat aftermarket headlights which have a combo LED C-bar driving light/sequential turn signal which said they fit 01-11 only to find that there was a break somewhere along the line which changed the plug for the turn signals. I couldn't find the same headlight assembly with a different plug since most of the aftermarket lights fail in the fact that the plug changed.
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Thank you for that info. Now I'll know what's going on if I encounter that problem myself. I was planning to use factory style headlights, but later models that don't have the solid amber corner lights. I'd ahve wondered what was going on with the connectors if they didn't match.

I got the front fenders on and most of the front end put together, then one day I was going to work on it and it looked like some of the jackstands and jacks had shifted slightly, so I took some time to carefully reset so I could jack it up a little more and start getting tires back on. It was at this point where disaster struck. I forget the exact count, but I had something like 5 jacks and 9 jackstands under the truck. I carefully jacked it up in the front enough to get a tire on, and when I went to turn away to grab the tire, there was a crunch and down the whole thing went.
Lessons learned the hard way aren't easily forgotten. If using jack stands on a non solid surface (IE dirt or gravel) always put them on something like a board or thick piece of plywood to prevent them from sinking into the ground and causing this exact problem. Sorry to hear that you had to learn the lesson this way (I think I remember reading it when it happened), but hopefully someone else can read this and learn from your shared experience.


Anyhow, thanks for sharing your build, look forward to reading and seeing the rest of what you've accomplished on it. Reading it in one place that is, I've probably seen most of in previous posts, but it's always better reading it in one continuous thread dedicated tot he subject. Maybe you'll even motivate me to post some more about my own projects.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Did you just bypass the A/C high pressure switch? I did basically the same jumper harness, but ran wires from it up to the core support to plug into the Explorer switch location.
So, if I remember correctly, the AC hose that I have from the Explorer has no high pressure switch, so I did a bypass to allow the system to work. The bypass that I did by using a weather resistant plug allows me to go to a high pressure sensor if I get a hose with the sensor port. Dad’s didn’t have the high pressure sensor either and on that, since it was before I started getting weatherproof connectors, I spliced the wires together and I’m not a big fan of that solution. The Ranger AC system will not function without either having the high pressure switch, or bypassing it if the switch isn’t an option. I had asked at the parts store about a new AC hose, but at the time, it was not available. You can find them now, but yeah. I was working with what I had.

I'll be doing the same, but went trhe opposite route. The power dome hood is installed with the 99 nose. I've gotten my hands on the header panel and headlight clips. I've got a co-worker that says he's going to give me a grill, but it's missing the honeycomb insert and we haven;t gotten together to get it yet. Grabbed the honeycomb insert on my last pick-n-pull trip, along with assorted trim pieces for that area. Just need to buy a set of lights, and I want to go with a 2006+ bumper assembly that I haven't managed to locate yet.
Front fenders, core support, that kind of stuff is the same 98-11. It’s the hood, header panel, grill, headlights and bumper that changed. I’ve seen some people claim that you can’t use a 98-00 hood with the 01 front bits. You can, it just doesn’t fit quite right, there’s a little more gap in the middle than there should be. The 01 powerdome hood that I have is fiberglass and there was a couple cracks which I have not got around to patching so it’s not on the truck yet.

I looked around at junkyards, but it was hard enough to come up with a decent header panel. I couldn’t find a good grill assembly but I found one reasonable online new and just went that route. I couldn’t find a good pair of headlights and I wanted aftermarket anyway, so I just did it one shot. Couldn’t find a decent bumper. Was going to just use the bumper I had until I could do something else, but when it fell off the stands, my bumper got more destroyed than it already was. As it stands now, I’m going to build a new bumper.

I have a general plan for my new front bumper, I'm intending on making the bulk of the bumper out of 1/8" plate, roughly similar to a stock bumper in shape but obviously lacking the lower plastic, that will all be steel. I'm also going to inset a pair of LED lights for fog/driving lights since I won't be running the stock fog/driving lights. Plus I'm going to bend up a small pushbar for the front. At this point it will likely be a spring project because I don't have a shop to work in.

Thank you for that info. Now I'll know what's going on if I encounter that problem myself. I was planning to use factory style headlights, but later models that don't have the solid amber corner lights. I'd ahve wondered what was going on with the connectors if they didn't match.
I never expected the problem, I have an 02 Ranger that was complete minus the bed (now the frame is junk in it) that I used for a reference when I was comparing things. It had the same turn signal/marker light plugs as my 00, just one less plug since the 98-00 lights use two of the three wire plugs and one two wire plug for the side marker. So I ordered aftermarket lights that said they fit 01-11 only to find they had a different plug. My first impulse was that someone made a serious mistake, but then I got digging into the problem and found the plugs changed and the aftermarket makes no real mention of it. It's only the three wire plug that changed, but it changed enough that you can't just un-pin one and change the end.

I messaged the guy that I bought the lights from and explained the problem. Since I wanted to keep the lights, he was kind enough to refund enough money to cover the cost of the replacement pigtails. I was pretty satisfied with that and after pondering how to make the connection, I thought that a weatherproof plug would be ideal, since it allows me to easily change the connection back if ever needed and I'm not trying to do a cut and solder. All of the other connections remain the same, and an early 01-03 or whatever it is light will plug in without going through that.

Lessons learned the hard way aren't easily forgotten. If using jack stands on a non solid surface (IE dirt or gravel) always put them on something like a board or thick piece of plywood to prevent them from sinking into the ground and causing this exact problem. Sorry to hear that you had to learn the lesson this way (I think I remember reading it when it happened), but hopefully someone else can read this and learn from your shared experience.
I did and I do. Working at home in the gravel driveway we usually have a pile of 2b graded limestone around for driveway maintenance, so I'll take some of that and grade it level, then put down wood or stone to set jacks and stands on. Very rarely do I set a jack or stand on the gravel itself and usually that's a temporary and non-critical thing. This wasn't the first time I've had a vehicle fall, but it was by far the most damage caused by a fall. I don't like putting more than one end of a vehicle on jackstands for this exact reason and I don't like not having a lot of support under a vehicle and as solid of footing as I can. I suspect that what happened was that the ground softened from a lot of rain and such to the point that things started shifting. It probably would have been ok if I would have been able to work at a better pace and get it back on it's wheels a lot sooner than I did, but I've had health problems that have slowed me down in recent years.

I really need something solid to work on, I've asked to be allowed to put a concrete pad in to work on but my parents have so far refused to permit it. At this point, I don't have a place leveled to work on my property and I don't have electric service there at the moment. Hopefully I can change that within the next year and at least get electric and a concrete pad to work on there if not get my garage building up. That's really the ideal, have my garage building up on a concrete slab because my next step will be a lift and be done with all this crawling around on the ground exposed to the weather.

Anyhow, thanks for sharing your build, look forward to reading and seeing the rest of what you've accomplished on it. Reading it in one place that is, I've probably seen most of in previous posts, but it's always better reading it in one continuous thread dedicated tot he subject. Maybe you'll even motivate me to post some more about my own projects.
@JoshT , thank you for the kind words. I've been meaning to do a build thread for awhile on this truck and I've been meaning to re-do my other build threads (they're long gone, I've tried the search feature, they must have existed prior to the forum change in 2007). Just been a matter of a lack of time and I wasn't trying to type everything out on my phone or tablet, it's far easier to use a computer. My desktop computer has been buried for a couple years and I had an older laptop that sort of worked. For Christmas last year I got a newly used laptop, but I didn't really devote the time and effort to start to sort it out until recently. This truck is one of the few that I have access to all of the pictures since they are all on two cellphones (my current phone and my old phone) plus my tablet, so it's a little awkward to get the pictures stitched in and try to make sure that I'm putting things in order, but it can be done. My dump truck and 92 Ranger also exist only on those platforms too but now that I have a computer again, everything is getting backed up as I have time. Once I can get to my desktop computer and get it fired back up, I'd like to work on getting my other build threads going, most importantly my Choptop build.

Also since I have a computer up again, I'm going to be working on trying to get videos edited and posted on my YouTube channel again. I was trying to edit and post from my phone & tablet which was an exercise in frustration since there's not enough storage space to work on more than one video at a time, doing that on those devices eats battery power with reckless abandon, and it's a time consuming process. So I'm currently working on getting video editing software on this laptop. My desktop is powerful for it's age, but I don't know that current gen video editing will run on it.

I almost have this build thread caught up to where I'm at with things. I'm probably going to go back through my posts since I think I've forgotten a few things here and there and I'll try to flesh out some stuff a little better. It's a process. I'll add a post when I think I have everything pretty well where it's going to stay with revisions and edits so everyone knows. I knew trying to go back and fill in the blanks was going to be a challenge, it's a lot easier to do one of these build threads from the start and update it as you go instead of trying to remember everything you did and in what order.
 
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JoshT

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I really need something solid to work on, I've asked to be allowed to put a concrete pad in to work on but my parents have so far refused to permit it. At this point, I don't have a place leveled to work on my property and I don't have electric service there at the moment. Hopefully I can change that within the next year and at least get electric and a concrete pad to work on there if not get my garage building up. That's really the ideal, have my garage building up on a concrete slab because my next step will be a lift and be done with all this crawling around on the ground exposed to the weather.
I feel you on that. Dad's got a shop with a 15x30 pad that I borrow for bigger stuff like the engine swap, but it's pretty inconvenient trying to work on things over there. Here at my house I've got nothing but dirt. Part of it is covered with a carport, but still over dirt. I'd like to begin the process of pouring a pad and putting up a shop and fortunately I don't have anyone to answer to on that. My dreams are about the same, concrete floor and decent sized garage, built for the future addition of a lift. Some place to work out of the weather, and so that I don't have to finish and/or pack up everything in one day. For my purposes something about the same depth and twice as wide as dad's shop would be great.

Unfortunately I'm probably going to have to tear out my kitchen to replace some flooring in the near future, which will probably put all of it on hold. Due to the way this manufatured home is built that means a complete remodel in at least the kitchen, maybe other areas if I find the damage is more widespread. So I've got to decide which comes first and how much of a bill I can afford to run up. I'd prefer to avoid touching anything like a home equity loan to do any of it.
 

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