Must you completely remove carrier to set pinion preload?

[sickwilly]

Ok, I appreciate the input. I’ll go in small increments and test it. Masking tape around the socket and marked 1/24 increments.

 

[19Walt93]

Ok, I appreciate the input. I’ll go in small increments and test it. Masking tape around the socket and marked 1/24 increments.

That sounds better, I was horrified to read 1 1/2 turns. Maybe 1/6 of a turn, unless there's looseness in the pinion now.

 

[sickwilly]

That sounds better, I was horrified to read 1 1/2 turns. Maybe 1/6 of a turn, unless there's looseness in the pinion now.

LOL, i had to go check and make sure i put the / in the right place. I wont go any more than 1/12 at a time (half a flat on the nut if that makes sense). If i went 1 1/2, i’d deserve what i got for sure. Appreciate you watching out.

 

[sgtsandman]

If you have a torque wrench with the proper range in inch pounds, I would recommend using one of those to measure your preload as you go.

 

[Roert42]

If you have a torque wrench with the proper range in inch pounds, I would recommend using one of those to measure your preload as you go.

Should be 16-28 in/lbs on new bearings or 8-14 in/lbs on used bearings.

or so says Joseph Palazzolo.

 

[sickwilly]

I have a CDI dial type. But I have to remove the carrier to do it. Some say do, some say dont remove the carrier. I dont want to take it out and not be able to get it back in. Only 80k on the truck, its probably in there tight. Thats why i asked about taking it “halfway” out. Thought maybe i could back bearing cap bolts partially out and move the carrier enough to disengage the pinion without having bearings, shims fall all the way out. If it was on a lift 5ft in the air on a concrete floor, that’d be one thing. It on jack stands 1ft off the ground on a dirt floor.

Update: Well i tried it, didnt work. With longer bolts - it might work. It was tight though, it’d definitely be a pain to get back in. I’ve seen folks pry on the carrier to get the shims back in - i decided to leave well enough alone.

 

[sgtsandman]

The preload checks I’ve seen done were from the pinion nut. There should be enough movement with the backlash to be able to get a reading.

 

[MikeG]

OK so I'll ask the dumb question.....

What would it hurt to take the axleshafts out of the carrier (to reduce drag) and measure the existing torque needed to turn the pinion? Then use that figure to reset it? You'd have the drag of both the pinion and the main bearings, but as long as the total number remained the same, shouldn't the pinion bearing preload end up the same?

 

[sickwilly]

OK so I'll ask the dumb question.....

What would it hurt to take the axleshafts out of the carrier (to reduce drag) and measure the existing torque needed to turn the pinion? Then use that figure to reset it? You'd have the drag of both the pinion and the main bearings, but as long as the total number remained the same, shouldn't the pinion bearing preload end up the same?

I thought about that. If i could of bought an in/lb locally, i would have. My ft/lb torque wrench wouldnt click on its lowest setting, wheels and all. Technically what your saying may not be correct but as long as your comparing apples to apples, i don’t see the problem.

 

[sickwilly]

The preload checks I’ve seen done were from the pinion nut. There should be enough movement with the backlash to be able to get a reading.

Thats kinda what 19walt93 said. When you say “within the backlash“, i assume you mean the few degrees of play between the pinion and ring gears. I dont see how an actual reading on a torque wrench is possible in that small of a space. Judge by feel maybe. Maybe i misunderstood.

 

[sgtsandman]

Thats kinda what 19walt93 said. When you say “within the backlash“, i assume you mean the few degrees of play between the pinion and ring gears. I don’t see how that’s near enough to tell anything, at least not for me. Now for someone thats been doing it for 30 yrs, it may well be. Either you two are the Jedi Masters of preload or i’m misunderstanding something.

You are looking for a certain amount of resistance before the pinion turns. If it turns before the required torque range, it’s too loose and needs tightened more. You need that resistance met before the pinion turns and touches the ring gear.

 

[Roert42]

You are looking for a certain amount of resistance before the pinion turns. If it turns before the required torque range, it’s too loose and needs tightened more. You need that resistance met before the pinion turns and touches the ring gear.

You should actually be measuring the the amount of torque to keep the pinion turning. Not the amount it takes to start turning the pinion.

 

[sgtsandman]

You should actually be measuring the the amount of torque to keep the pinion turning. Not the amount it takes to start turning the pinion.

Starting torque would be higher than rolling torque but within the range. Aim for the high end of the torque range and it will put you within the range for rolling torque.

 

[sickwilly]

True. A ballpark is better than a WAG.
On a side note: I’m doing wheel bearings while im at it. So i go to Oreillys to get they’re loaner rear bearing puller and slide hammer. I stick the puller into the bearing hole and spend 5 minutes trying to thread it onto the slide hammer -WTH. I finally fish the puller out and.......sob aint even threaded-at all. 3 sizes in the set, 2 of em threaded, the one i need- nope.

 

[MikeG]

Horrible Freight had in-lb torque wrenches for a reasonable amount. I don't know that I'd trust one to work on the space shuttle, but for a comparative reading as to what you have right now.... it should be useful, I would think.