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Multiple DTC after truck running great, '99 5.0 in a '96 Ranger


540milotalon

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Location
Near Shenandoah Valley, Va.
Vehicle Year
1996
Make / Model
Ford/Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
I had hoped to make a good progress report but things have been busy and the truck was running great.
I was having tranny shifting issues by trying to use an over the counter '96 PCM. I was able to find a vendor in Florida that removed PATS from the original '99 PCM/ECM, I will post that info in another thread, less confusion.
After the truck was running good, today I took off and the truck has no power, will not shift again and is missing and threw multiple DTC codes.

So many and so different not sure where to start.
Stored codes using my Autoenginuity are: P1747, P0750, P0755, P0743, P0443, P0453.
KOEO codes are similar but: P1747, P0750, P0743 and KOER are: P0135, P0155, P0460

Stored codes earlier using a "Bluedriver" scan tool and iPhone included the above with the addition of: P0301, P0171, P0300, P1270, (it would not shift out of second to get home)
So, this is like 13 different codes, using two different devices.
Man, I thought I had this thing whipped.
 


Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
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41N 75W
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Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
Is the trans, engine, wiring harness and ECM all from the same donor vehicle?

Whenever I see that many codes at once I always start by looking for a voltage issue. Bad ground straps, bad alternator, bad battery, bad cables, bad ecm connection etc. Its statistically implausible for that many problems to exist at once so you need to find something they all have in common, and with that many codes that basically just leaves voltage. The truck is stuck in limp mode because of the DTCs.
 

540milotalon

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Location
Near Shenandoah Valley, Va.
Vehicle Year
1996
Make / Model
Ford/Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
Yes, right now the 5.0., 4R70W trans, ECM, engine/trans wiring harness and rear out of the '99 Merc.
As I mentioned, the guy in Florida removed PATS and I did not op for any "performance upgrades" as I wanted to be able to narrow any issues down if they appeared, and boy did they.

I can start looking tomorrow, it has been raining here for days, it cleared off for a while Saturday but started again all day yesterday. Truck has only been started and driven "next door" (I live in a rural area.) since Thursday.
Today I had to drive about 25 miles away and it started acting up on the way there, seems like progressively worse by the time I got there, no different driving home after unhooking battery to see if any change. I did take screen shots of all the DTC's in the memory before unhooking battery.
 

540milotalon

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Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
67
Reaction score
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Location
Near Shenandoah Valley, Va.
Vehicle Year
1996
Make / Model
Ford/Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
OK, so far I have checked the connections on the battery, ECM at firewall and grounds. The alternator was putting put 14.8 volts right after starting and then tapered down to 14.68 so while that is a little high I think I do not feel it is a concern?
I checked both coil packs and both seem good. Checked each cylinder at coil pack by pulling each spark plug wire and each cylinder had a noticeable change in idle.
Checked fuel pressure at Schrader valve on fuel rail, passenger side engine, and my fuel gauge reads 63psi for a '99 Merc.

I disconnected the Cam Position Sensor and no noticeable change at idle or when revving it up.
I disconnected the MAF sensor and a noticeable change at idle.
Still wondering what to check next. I am thinking using the smoke can and check for vacuum leaks tomorrow am.
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
19,304
Reaction score
13,326
Points
113
Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
The alternator should not be over 14 volts after the truck has ran for 10-15 minutes. It should drop to around 13.5vdc. There is definitely a problem there. You have a bad voltage regulator, bad connection from the battery to the alternator, or a bad cell on the battery.
 

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