First I would test IAC(idle air control) Valve
After engine is warmed up, let it idle and unplug the 2 wire connector on IAC Valve
Idle should drop down to 500RPM or engine may even stall, either is good it means IAC Valve(and computer) was working to set warm engine idle, usually about 650rpm with manual transmission, 750 with automatic
If idle doesn't change then IAC Valve may be stuck, it can be cleaned and tested
Read here:
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/iac-valve-cleaning-thread-w-pics.84220/
When IAC Valve is off the intake, turn on the key, plug 2 wire connector back in, valve should move(open) about 3/8" inch, then unplug the 2 wire connector and it should close, repeat as you see fit to determine its working as it should.
If idle does drop then I would replace ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, not an expensive part, so often just easier to replace than to test it
Fuel injected engines have TWO coolant temp devices
1. ECT sensor, always 2 wires, 5volt, only used by the computer to set Choke and cold/warm idle
2. ECT sender, usually 1 wire, 12volt, only used by dash temp gauge
If the ECT sensor is "telling" the computer the engine is already warmed up, then computer doesn't set Choke or higher idle, computer just thinks its a "restart" after running into the store or stopping for gas, so cold engine struggles to run on warm engine fuel mix