Zachalanche
Member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2008
- Messages
- 248
- Reaction score
- 5
- Points
- 18
- Vehicle Year
- 1989
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Type
- 2.9 V6
- Engine Size
- 2.9
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Lift
- 4
- Tire Size
- 33
HI all,
I have an 89 ranger with a 2.9 that has served me well, but its got north of 250,000 miles on it now and I have been finding myself doing a lot of hwy driving with steep grades lately, and this poor engine really struggles to keep pace with traffic, and if i try, the high rpm operation really aggravates the ticking lifter issue these engines have. to add insult to injury I also live in an exceptionally hot place, so doing this task in 115 degrees with the AC blasting while turning 33 in tires and pushing a square body through the wind. probably exceeds the original design criteria for that engine.
Long story short I think this 2.9's days are numbered.
So, what's the best bang for the buck to get this old truck to pull its own weight and still be reliable. It doesn't need to be a fire breathing monster, but being able to pull 80 mph on a 6% grade would be nice.
Here's a list of my Ideas but I would like to hear some opinions from those with some experience.
1. Rebuild the 2.9 and turbocharge.
Pros:
-least invasive
-I have fab skills, and some tuning skills - could run a microsquirt
Cons:
-while I think the 2.9 would handle a moderate amount of boost just fine, I would still have issues running high RPMs for sustained periods with my 4.56 gearing, so to make use of the increased power, I would need to re gear
-Reliability will likely decrease
2. 302 swap
Pros:
-solid reliable ford platform with lots of aftermarket support
-I have experience swapping the 5.0 HO into other platforms so the wiring doesn't concern me
-Makes enough bot not tons of power
-can be made to fit with AC evaporator....hopefully.
Cons:
-Transmission options aren't the best
-what transfer case do I use the 1350 / 1354 is weak, and adapters are expensive, the 1356 is huge, the NP 205 or 208 might be an option, but probably expensive due to popularity
- Prices for any 302 (roller cam) these days is insane. its hard to justify that cost just to have 200hp.
3. LS swap
Pros:
-lots of displacement and power options in the same size package. low weight for aluminum block versions
-can be acquired with transmission, and T-case. this is possible with the sbf 302, but most often it seems like mixing and matching is required.
Cons:
- more interference with AC evaporator
- the 5.3 lifter issues will put me right back where i started lol.
-this really isn't as cheap as some make it out to be especially if you want a low mileage engine with the drive train. - 4-6k. but performance per dollar may be good.
4. the 4.0 swap
Pros:
- easy fit
- cheap
Cons:
- Boring
- good luck finding one that doesn't need head gaskets or a rebuild.
- lots of effort for the power increase.
I have an 89 ranger with a 2.9 that has served me well, but its got north of 250,000 miles on it now and I have been finding myself doing a lot of hwy driving with steep grades lately, and this poor engine really struggles to keep pace with traffic, and if i try, the high rpm operation really aggravates the ticking lifter issue these engines have. to add insult to injury I also live in an exceptionally hot place, so doing this task in 115 degrees with the AC blasting while turning 33 in tires and pushing a square body through the wind. probably exceeds the original design criteria for that engine.
Long story short I think this 2.9's days are numbered.
So, what's the best bang for the buck to get this old truck to pull its own weight and still be reliable. It doesn't need to be a fire breathing monster, but being able to pull 80 mph on a 6% grade would be nice.
Here's a list of my Ideas but I would like to hear some opinions from those with some experience.
1. Rebuild the 2.9 and turbocharge.
Pros:
-least invasive
-I have fab skills, and some tuning skills - could run a microsquirt
Cons:
-while I think the 2.9 would handle a moderate amount of boost just fine, I would still have issues running high RPMs for sustained periods with my 4.56 gearing, so to make use of the increased power, I would need to re gear
-Reliability will likely decrease
2. 302 swap
Pros:
-solid reliable ford platform with lots of aftermarket support
-I have experience swapping the 5.0 HO into other platforms so the wiring doesn't concern me
-Makes enough bot not tons of power
-can be made to fit with AC evaporator....hopefully.
Cons:
-Transmission options aren't the best
M50D-R2 - not the strongest, and if it has the same aluminum shift forks as the R1 I want nothing to do with it.
ZF 5 speed - does it even fit without cutting up the floor? - also expensive.
AOD - maybe the best because it can be adapted to my t-case but I don't love that option.
ZF 5 speed - does it even fit without cutting up the floor? - also expensive.
AOD - maybe the best because it can be adapted to my t-case but I don't love that option.
T5 - expensive to adapt to 4x4, also not the strongest
6R80 - perfect for someone with bottomless pockets - can be had for cheap, but adapting its extremely expensive
maybe there are some others, but I'm not considering transmissions that don't have overdrive
-what transfer case do I use the 1350 / 1354 is weak, and adapters are expensive, the 1356 is huge, the NP 205 or 208 might be an option, but probably expensive due to popularity
- Prices for any 302 (roller cam) these days is insane. its hard to justify that cost just to have 200hp.
3. LS swap
Pros:
-lots of displacement and power options in the same size package. low weight for aluminum block versions
-can be acquired with transmission, and T-case. this is possible with the sbf 302, but most often it seems like mixing and matching is required.
Cons:
- more interference with AC evaporator
- the 5.3 lifter issues will put me right back where i started lol.
-this really isn't as cheap as some make it out to be especially if you want a low mileage engine with the drive train. - 4-6k. but performance per dollar may be good.
4. the 4.0 swap
Pros:
- easy fit
- cheap
Cons:
- Boring
- good luck finding one that doesn't need head gaskets or a rebuild.
- lots of effort for the power increase.