More B3000 questions

[James Morse]

Helps me for sure too! I know what you mean I am in process of clearing out basement, it's full basement same size as house so you can imagine how when you don't know what do w/ stuff in the way you're like "put it in the basement" then after 10 yrs you're like wtf happened here?? My shop is clean, I only keep stuff I am actually using or working on there, but it's about the only place that's actually organized. So I know exactly what you are saying, and, once I get done with basement I will have tons of room to put stuff. We just got dehumidifier and so it is dry as bone there, stuff won't rust/mold. Everything sounds really great and I sure have enjoyed talking to you and learned a lot today. And when you get to sorting stuff out, I could just come with my truck to storage place or wherever and load and go. That's the nice thing about having a truck.

 

[don4331]

8.8 is considerably stronger than 7.5, in addition to the larger ring gear, the hypoid distance (amount pinion is below axle centerline) is 1.5" versus 1.0".
Which means more teeth are in engagement between the pinion and ring gear. Really only important when you get into high ratios like 4.56s or 5.13s. But it comes at a cost - more teeth engaged = more teeth creating friction and more hypoid distance = more slide motion of the teeth versus pure contact, again more friction - which is why you have to run oil with sulfur in the differential while you get away with oil without in transmission. Sulfur in the differential oil is better for allowing sliding without breaking down (but it stinks).

(Ford 9" with 2.25" offset can run ratios into the high 6s).

VIN decoded

4f4	USA manufactured, Mazda, Complete Vehicle
y	4,001 - 5,000 lb GVWR
r16	Truck, 4 door SuperCab, 4x2
v	3.0 engine
6	check digit aka security code
x	1999 manufacture
t	Edison, New Jersey
m47630	sequence number (m - Mazda)

Date 07/99 - born on date - July, 1999
F0060 - front axle reserve weight (how much more option weight you could have added to front - 4.0 v6, ABS, fog lights*, etc)
R0335 - total gvwr reserve weight (in addition to front, 8.8 axle, trailer hitch, bed liner, running board, etc)
Plant code FL - Mazda version of Red aka Toreador Red

Let me work on the B code for brakes, I know it will tell us 9 vs 10" rear drums but I want to confirm all permutations.

TR - T = 4R44E Automatic
SPR - DC = D front springs - 2500lb capacity, C rear springs - 2,750 lbs.

*ABS, 4.0V6 and foglights burn 55 of those 60lbs.

 

[James Morse]

@don4331 Thank you, wow, that tells the story on the VIN. And thanks for all the info on the rear ends, that is making complete sense to me now and the reasons why to do it certain ways depending on the requirements. I really appreciate it.

 

[James Morse]

When I was looking at building the Daytona, I spent quite a bit of time figuring out what I would need, where to get it, tools I'd need, the procedures, etc etc. But now I've pretty much abandoned that idea for the foreseeable future.

However, as to swapping the 5.0L Explorer engine into the B3000, and the trans/rear end (thanks), I want to do the same planning. Can you tell me briefly what will I need for tools, aside from standard sets of English and metric sockets, wrenches, etc, which I have? Will I need a lift, or, will a lift make it a lot easier? I know guys built those other cars without lifts, but from talking to them, they say that while you can do it, having a lift makes life way easier. A good lift, one you can bolt to the floor, but, you can also remove it and store to the side, isn't horribly expensive. Also I was planning to get a "real" compressor setup, but not sure if I need it. Can you help me in the planning? Here I'm mostly talking just about the tools and equipment needed. I know there are other sides to it like having welding done, and any add'l parts I need, and the process of doing it, you've talked some about these things.

 

[don4331]

At the very least you need an engine crane. The more...seasoned...I get, the better a hoist looks. As my power tools are all cordless now, a "real" compressor is a lot lower on the list. You will want a trailer to take the pieces to the recyclers.

For the differential swap, a good floor jack, jack stands and set of metric deep sockets + the 12mm/12 point 1/2" drive for the driveshaft and a cheater bar are all the tools I've needed.

When Ford built your Ranger, they put the engine in the frame and then the cab on the frame. So, that is the easiest method - still a bunch of work though.

 

[James Morse]

I have 4 vintage NAPA jack stands they are strong as f. Used to race Fiesta years ago in SCCA and had to change out some stuff in suspension, springs, shocks, like that.

Is engine crane and hoist different? Hoist has to have strong rafters? I was going to get one (crane, I guess) for the Daytona project so even though I'm not doing that now, it was "kind of" in the budget. heh.

Pretty sure I have deep sockets in those sizes, I'll check, and definitely have all different sizes of pry bars which I think(?) you mean by cheater bars. Even have a long rock bar, but I'm pretty sure I won't need THAT.

I have two floor jacks. Makes it a lot easier to lift both sides to put in the jack stands.

Sounds like all I need is the engine crane or, you say, hoist is better. I'll have to look them up. I don't think they are all that much. Hoist would probably be a chain hoist. I think I probably want a helper to get the engine in, you don't want it swinging around crooked or banging into the radiator or anything like that. I don't know if there is one or two lift points, but all that should become clear the more I get into it.

Um, I'm not taking the cab off, am I? That sounds like a nightmare! How does the cab attach to the frame?

It's a Mazda, but, yeah, Ford built it, definitely, the same place they built 1.7 million Rangers, and except for some of the body like the fenders in back (I think), yeah, it's a Ranger. Which explains why my neighbor was eyeing it when I brought it home. He has a Ranger. It's one major reason I went with it, if there were only Mazdas, I'd probably have a heck of a time getting parts for a 22 yr old truck.

THANK YOU.

 

[James Morse]

I understand diff crane vs hoist now. It seems like crane, that has basically an A-frame with a chain hoist on it, is the way to go. They say that regular type of hoist (hydraulic) often won't work for pickups where they are too high, also, they aren't good for these situations where you have to tilt the engine/tranny (I'm assuming tranny is mated to engine before you put it in, I could be wrong about that) to get it in. But they are super expensive. On the other hand, there's no sense to get something cheaper that doesn't work, and, I think chain hoist on crane, you could adjust up/down much more sensitively than with hydraulics, just a gut feeling.

I'm not planning on spending more on a crane than on the truck. Not today anyway. I had this thought: What would prevent a person from making an A-frame out of wood. I'm talking, substantial oak, maybe even laminated, that is strong as f and the engine/tranny is what, maybe 700 lbs total? Not all that much really. Then all you'd need is the chain hoist part of it, and I'm thinking, maybe that is two chain hoists if you are putting it in not-level, or, maybe you just have one hoist but two chains that are different length if you have two lift points.. anyway. You see what I'm getting at. You'd still have to buy some things, but, not 5k worth.

If the ceiling joists (sorry, I said rafters before) are strong enough, or you reinforce them where you put the chain hoist, seems like you could just use those and forget about the A-frame deal altogether. Obviously you don't want to pull your roof down, lol, then you have a different problem.

My joists are at 10' so that's plenty high enough. Also means I can fit a lift in there, which would be really nice sometime, but probably not necessary. Creeper under jack stands works, I guess.

An engineer could tell you exactly what size of what materials are needed to support a certain weight with a good safety margin. In my work I get 11' oak, thick, and could make something... maybe just support the joist you want to use with some pieces under it - basically building the A-frame - and reinforce the joist, if needed, and it should be good to go. Plus you wouldn't have the huge crane assembly to store because it's not something I would use very much.

This is just planning at this point, trying to get my ducks lined up.

 

[James Morse]

@don4331 do you have the VIN breakout for '05 Ranger?

 

[don4331]

@don4331 do you have the VIN breakout for '05 Ranger?

@James Morse
VIN breakout are you looking for something like this? https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/dam/aem_fleet/en_us/fleet/vin-guides/VIN2005.pdf

Because only Ford has the actual break out of Ranger VINs (And I'm not sure how much of that is on record/available to the public anymore.

 

[James Morse]

Thanks don4331 that looks pretty good I sure appreciate it.
Is there another one that tells you the codes for the sticker inside the door?
I tell you reason is sometimes you see trucks they say it's one thing but then you look at the pics and you are like "really?"
For instance an 05 that they say is an Edge but you see Level II stickers on the back fenders - but no Edge of FX stickers - and I'm pretty sure there was no Edge Level II - so you're left wondering wtf is it actually.
And I'd think maybe the build plate inside the door would maybe give more clues.

EDIT: I was asking in this reply for the other years, but it looks like if I replace the year in the link I am getting at least some of the other years... haven't tried them all yet... so if they are all there, then, no reason for you to send individual links. I only tried it for one and it came up.

 

[don4331]

Thanks don4331 that looks pretty good I sure appreciate it.
Is there another one that tells you the codes for the sticker inside the door?
I tell you reason is sometimes you see trucks they say it's one thing but then you look at the pics and you are like "really?"
For instance an 05 that they say is an Edge but you see Level II stickers on the back fenders - but no Edge of FX stickers - and I'm pretty sure there was no Edge Level II - so you're left wondering wtf is it actually.
And I'd think maybe the build plate inside the door would maybe give more clues.

EDIT: I was asking in this reply for the other years, but it looks like if I replace the year in the link I am getting at least some of the other years... haven't tried them all yet... so if they are all there, then, no reason for you to send individual links. I only tried it for one and it came up.

The Ford Safety Compliance Label (Federal Sticker) - The Ranger Station

Whether you’re looking at a used truck, or looking at a truck in the salvage yard, it can be helpful to know what everything stands for on the federal sticker. The sticker can be found on the door latch edge … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[James Morse]

Sweet. Thanks