Money pit

[tim h]

1987 bronco ll,a/t, 4wd, 2.9 fuel injected,180k.Just bought, i'm not a mechanic,has ran like crap since I bought it. A friend is a mechanic at a GM dealership, starting to wonder if maybe just a parts changer. Have repplaced, EGR valve, EGR position sensor,MAP sensor,all injectors, fuel filter, cap,rotor,plugs,wires,coolant sensor,throttle positoon sensor, still can't get it to idle. Just ordered fuel pressue regulator. ANY SUGGESTIONS ?

 

[Uncle Gump]

First suggestion... stop throwing parts at.

Second suggestion... gather up all the parts that were taken off for replacement before they get thrown away.

What's your fuel pressure... base timing and did you check it for codes?

Third suggestion... post this question over in the 2.9L engine forum. You'll get better looks for these questions there.

Welcome to TRS...

 

[19Walt93]

/\ Like he said. What do you mean by "it won't idle"? Does it flutter and stall or does it run too fast? Describe "runs like crap" symptoms in detail- for example 'runs rough', then describe the driving conditions that aggravate it- accelerating, climbing hills, cornering, steady speeds, when wet, etc. Are there any driving conditions that don't cause symptoms? Is it generating any codes, is the check engine light on?
I'd remove and thoroughly clean the IAC valve and clean the throttle body- using throttle body cleaner on both, not carb clean. It's basic maintenance that's often overlooked, it's also quick, easy and cheap to do and won't hurt anything if it isn't needed.

 

[tim h]

/\ Like he said. What do you mean by "it won't idle"? Does it flutter and stall or does it run too fast? Describe "runs like crap" symptoms in detail- for example 'runs rough', then describe the driving conditions that aggravate it- accelerating, climbing hills, cornering, steady speeds, when wet, etc. Are there any driving conditions that don't cause symptoms? Is it generating any codes, is the check engine light on?
I'd remove and thoroughly clean the IAC valve and clean the throttle body- using throttle body cleaner on both, not carb clean. It's basic maintenance that's often overlooked, it's also quick, easy and cheap to do and won't hurt anything if it isn't needed.

It starts right up, but does not idle or stay running. According to my mechanic, fuel pressure is good. A good friend of mine is in the parts business, so I do get most of my parts at cost.( I want a dependable vehicle and don't care what it looks like, it's not a show truck, just want it to start and run and get me from A to B every time I get in it) The only thing I have not replaced is the fuel pressure regulator and the IAC, which both are ordered. The only code even from the scanner was for a faulty EGR valve, since has been replaced. No check engine, no other codes.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I moved this thread to the 2.9L forum.

I think you may have missed my point. Even at cost... most of these replacement parts you're putting on this truck are of pretty poor quality compared to what that truck came with. Seriously... if you can get your old injectors back... do it. Many replace injectors are pure garbage.

Did they even put a timing light on it?

Did he set the new TPS... or just bolt it on?

Did the IAC get tested... or you replacing it as a shot in the dark?

These small details can make a world of difference.

 

[gaz]

@tim h
Often a small personal investment will trump a waterfall of parts. Instead of parts buy a:
• timing light
• fuel pressure Gage
• multimeter

As suggested by @Uncle Gump and @19Walt93 , I hope that you kept all the parts that were removed.

If your 2.9 had solid, correct fuel pressure, adequate coil voltage output and base timing were set correctly...then you would get a different answer from the forum bubbas.

The only time I experienced a crappy or intermittent running 2.9...after verifying the fuel pressure, coil output voltage and timing, I would check the oil for water. To do this, let it sit a day or two, so that if there is any water in your oil, it sinks.

Open the oil pan drain bolt slowly, the water will come out 1st, there may not be very much. This happened to me; the engine sat for a couple years, the lower intake manifold gasket failed allowing coolant into the engine valley and pan.

FYI, these engines will run without an EGR system. No one needs to be a genius or a mechanic to get one of these running well. Just verify one aspect at a time, be patient and willing to ask for assistance

 

[gaz]

While nothing to impress your mechanic buddy, it may be enough to impress your mechanic buddy (when you used to solve your fault).

My bust, I thought that was a multimeter

 

[Cees Klumper]

Check vacuum lines connections, routing and check for vacuum leaks. These engines are very sensitive to all the lines being properly connected to the various ports (pre- and post throttle body] and to any vacuum leaks.