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Mileage and limited slip differentials



pjtoledo

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one of the pics show the springs between the halves. those press the side gears outward and increase pressure ( WEAR ) between the side gears and the housing.
 

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It appears to be a spring loaded tensioning block. Designed to put outward pressure on the side gears.
 

don4331

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@lil_Blue_Ford

I sort of forgot about Powertrax Locker... you can install them in an open carrier case and might be the easiest solution (assuming the ring gear isn't in the way).

I don't know how @Lefty 's find could put enough pressure on to be useful without instantly filling the differential with metal shavings. But I could be missing something...
 

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@lil_Blue_Ford

I sort of forgot about Powertrax Locker... you can install them in an open carrier case and might be the easiest solution (assuming the ring gear isn't in the way).

I don't know how @Lefty 's find could put enough pressure on to be useful without instantly filling the differential with metal shavings. But I could be missing something...
Yeah, I wouldn’t really recommend the Lock Right for street use but the Powertrax is supposed to be more street friendly and is easily installable. No messing with setting up gears (usually), no special tools. Pop the cross pin out, pull the C-clips, roll the spiders out and pull the side gears. Install the Powertrax, shove the cross pin back through, button it up and fill with oil. I think Aussie Locker makes a version of each but Summit apparently doesn’t carry it anymore.
 

don4331

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Yeah, I wouldn’t really recommend the Lock Right for street use but the Powertrax is supposed to be more street friendly and is easily installable. No messing with setting up gears (usually), no special tools. Pop the cross pin out, pull the C-clips, roll the spiders out and pull the side gears. Install the Powertrax, shove the cross pin back through, button it up and fill with oil. I think Aussie Locker makes a version of each but Summit apparently doesn’t carry it anymore.
You can't "just pop the cross pin out" if you have ratio higher than 3.73, the ring gear teeth get in the way. Nothing that a little Dremel work can't fix but a lot of people get nervous about grinding slot in gear. (You need to remove as little as possible/round edges to avoid stress risers and clean up all the debris from the grinding and it shouldn't be an issue - there isn't supposed to be any load those portions of the teeth per the wear pattern, but one can never say never.)
 

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You can't "just pop the cross pin out" if you have ratio higher than 3.73, the ring gear teeth get in the way. Nothing that a little Dremel work can't fix but a lot of people get nervous about grinding slot in gear. (You need to remove as little as possible/round edges to avoid stress risers and clean up all the debris from the grinding and it shouldn't be an issue - there isn't supposed to be any load those portions of the teeth per the wear pattern, but one can never say never.)
Wasn’t sure what ratio that became a problem with, so thank you for clearing that up
 

superj

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this is a super interesting thread. all the pics and talk is very educational
 

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My 4.10 gears in a 8.8 diff. from the factory had no interference with the pin and ring rear. Some grinding on the ring gear was required when I had 4.56 gears installed though. I think there is or at least was a pin designed to work without having to modify the ring gear. They removed as little a possible on the gear too. I recently wanted to change the rear wheel bearings and the pin did not just pop out, I had to pound it out. That didn't require a sledge hammer but was more than light tapping. I have Torsen differentials, but I think the pin still fits the same. Torsen is similar to Trutrac

I also had an 89 STX with a 7.5 diff. that I had converted from 3.73 to 4.10 without modification to the ring gear.
 

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