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Mild drop and rides like crap!


LEMONADE

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Let me start by stating I have had several lowered trucks over the years and this one rides the worst! I have had s10s with heated springs, nissans with backed off torsion bars, full size chevys with cut springs and drop spindles that have been lower than the ranger and rode smoother......I bought the kit and it is beating the crap out of me- what gives?

I installed a 3/5 drop on my 2000 Ranger. It looks cool, nothing too wild, just a very mild drop, but it rides worse than a go kart. I replaced the front coils with drop coils, installed drop stocks and removed the bump stops because the the truck was sitting on them allowing no travel at all. Granted I am running 20" wheels with 35 series tires, but it rides horrible. The suspension bottoms out on the slightest dip or bump in the road- then the truck bounces off the bumpstop brackets. I am considering busting out the sawsall and cutting off the bump stop bracket from the frame hoping to gain a little bit of suspension travel. Anyone else run into this issue with a static drop? Does the frame need to be notched?

In the rear I just installed a flip kit with drop shocks and removed the bumpstops-once again the truck was sitting on them and had no travel. I know I need to do a small c-notch to take care of the bottoming out in the rear.

even with nice seats out of a 2007 Mustang GT my back is killing me from bouncing down the road.
 


jds4racing

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i wouldnt cut the bumpstops off unless they are like 6 inch bumpstops i might wld go with a shorter bumpstop but if it hits the bump stops with a slightest bump then when u take em off u will hit the frame and make aa clunking metal noise back there and thats not cool with me if it was my truck lol
 

LEMONADE

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no room

there is less than an inch between the lower control arm and the bumpstop bracket-unless that bump stop is less than 1/4 inch, but then that would mean less than 3/4 of travel remaining... When the suspension moves just a little it bottoms out.
 

Casper98

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Did you cut down your Bump stops at all or are they still stock length?
 

doorgunner

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Something doesn't sound right....that's definately not enough travel between the lower arm & the bumpstop.

I lowered my '89 I Beam suspension about 3"....it's got 2" of travel between the beam/bumpstop now instead of 5".....and THAT'S not enough for a smooth ride!

Hate to say it, but maybe you need stock height coil springs with 3" dropped spindles for a smoother ride.........
 

LEMONADE

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I took the bumpstops completely out to attempt to gain some travel....only have about an inch of travel in all. I think the 3" drop coil is just too much. Looks like I am going to have to get a set of drop control arms and a 2" spring or just say to hell with it and bag the front end so I can drive it up when the road is rough and down when parked or on a smooth road.
 

doorgunner

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LEMONADE

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Crap fixed!

After making several calls to different suspension companies I was told several time just installing bags would not fix the crappy ride. I was told every time to remove the bump stop bracket and radius the lower control arm bracket as that is what they do when they bag a ranger This freed up a lot of suspension travel. The ride is no longer stiff and bouncy it rides better than stock! While i was at it i installed an energy bushing shorter end link for the anti-sway bar Now just have to install the air shocks on the rear to rais the rear about an inch to level it and install the c-notch as my attention has now moved to the rear.



For those interested in putting air shocks on their ranger after a flip kit: The specs for a lowered suspension drop shock is 13" compressed and 20" extended. I did a little research and that translates to the same air shock for
the 87 grand national found the set at auto zone for $58
 

doorgunner

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I've got adjustable air shocks on all 4 wheels...I keep the front shocks at 45psi on the highway to keep the camber correct/smooooth ride.... also (I need to put the sway bar on the front suspension to keep the front end from floating on the Interstate :icon_rofl:
 

LEMONADE

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Installed the c-notch

the ride has drastically improved! No more bottoming out and smoother than stock! Only one hitch- the dumbass at the tire shop cross threaded two of the wheel studs on the rear wheel adapter. Wound up breaking them. Then when pressing out the studs from the wheel adapter it cracked! Son of a bitch! Going to order up another pair. Guess I will replace them when I replace the leaf spring this weekend and hopefully level out the rearend
 

doorgunner

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thanks for the info...I forgot---what was the inch difference in the c-notch?

Got any pics.......?
 

chilsam

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I've got adjustable air shocks on all 4 wheels...I keep the front shocks at 45psi on the highway to keep the camber correct/smooooth ride.... also (I need to put the sway bar on the front suspension to keep the front end from floating on the Interstate :icon_rofl:
Had to cut the bump stops down on the 89 3" drop made a diff.Not illegals just slave labor for republicans and southern democrats! LOL:icon_cheers:
 

doorgunner

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Location
New Orleans (8' below sea level & sinking)
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1934/1989
Make / Model
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Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
350+1
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2WD / 4WD
2WD
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N/A
Total Drop
3/4
Tire Size
23570R15
My credo
JESUS Loves Ya!
Had to cut the bump stops down on the 89 3" drop made a diff.Not illegals just slave labor for republicans and southern democrats! LOL:icon_cheers:
yep.......I cut the front bumpstops in half....still getting too much bottoming-out........drop beams needed!

rear end is smoother after I took the overload leaf off each side...but the rear air shocks are absolutely necessary with an 800 lb. load without the overload leafs....
 

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