Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.
There are definitely some things I'm going to add, I figure it would be a good way to attach them all without drilling more holes. I think I want the panels to tilt/remove so I can move them around but haven't really researched what's out there yet as far as efficiency goes.Definitely an awning and solar panel. Canoe/kayak carrier... shower awning... ladder type tree stands.
I've been looking at the flexible panels and they don't really require any frame structure.
I've got a small 12v water pump that could make this passive type water heater even more plausible without having to lug water onto the roof.I even saw people use a section of 4 inch black PVC with a fill port and a spigot with shower head. The black pipe will warm the water. 4 inch x 7 foot would give you about 5 gallons of water. Enough for a couple quick clean ups.
That's where I'm at too, they're easy enough to remove.Leave the ladder racks. They are just too useful. If you find they're not, then get rid of them.
It is bolted through the roof with 2 bolts on all 4 corners, making it a quick release deal may be problematic because of leaks, as it is I've got to remove it and seal around the mounts.That's how I see it, too. How does the ladder rack mount to he box now? I would be looking at making the rack part easy and quick to remove and reinstall, without compromising its load carrying or structural integrity. Make it almost like a quick-change accessory.
High drilling speed kills hole saws. The teeth (only) are tempered; if the saw gets too hot the temper is affected and the teeth will dull quickly.
Keep the drill RPM down, or you can pulse the trigger, but I suggest that you use a drill with a second handle for better control. You can also use cutting oil (any light oil, really) to help the cutting, keep the saw temperature down, and to help prevent chips from sticking to the teeth.
Drilling aluminum will be easier, but do keep the speed down and use oil.
Good move, on getting the lighting and its electrical harness squared away first.
It was a half baked way to keep the sway down in its previous life, I'm going to look at other options now, haha.Nice spring pack you got there.
I'm going to put a piece of fixed glass in the angled part of the roof and have opening windows in each side door, I've gotta measure and start hunting for windows. Cutting a hole in the doors for them will also allow me to insulate them without disassembly, which is nice because they're assembled like automotive doors. I don't want to cut into the roof so any ventilation I add will be in the sides or front.What are you planning for ventilation?
You'd have to think with the doors closed to keep the bugs out... that thing is gonna be a sweat box on a warm summer night.
I kinda think I would want a couple windows too.
I finished the wiring harness last night, it's a 7 way with an auxiliary, electric brakes, and reverse lights wired in and capped for future use. Truck is already wired for all of these things and has a brake controller also. The plan is to use a portable power station and solar in the trailer but the auxiliary will be wired in to charge it while driving also. I'd like to keep the two mostly separate when it comes to power. Here are some pics of my harness work last night, I reused most wires and the loom so it looks old but is all redoneI would suggest running a 5-wire or 7-wire for brakes and backup lights.
Possibly providing some power for other things as well but keep in mind that the amperage isn’t super high and not all of them have power all the time, at least as the wires are normally setup.