Manual swap info needed (98 4.0 4x4)

[ronlp]

So, I had originally intended to gather up all the parts to do this and schedule a weekend for it, but thanks to an unintentional engine rebuild, it's just kind of happening now as there is no reason to put the auto back in at this point. I've been researching it for a while, and have a pretty good idea what is involved, but there are some details that are a little fuzzy...likely because there are so many different combinations of engine/trans/driveline/year/etc.

Adding to that, I'm also going straight to an HD trans, since in addition to being stronger, they are way easier to locate these days. I've already bought the trans and shifter/boot from a 2011, so at least that part is sorted, but it was shipped from an ebay seller, so I have no access to any additional parts from it's donor.

The usual list of obvious new parts will be coming from RA on the next order I make (starter, flywheel, clutch setup + hydraulics, pilot bearing, hardware) IIRC, all this stuff will be bought for a non-HD 98 and not the HD trans I'm using?

I already have the pedal set, but need to hit more yards to locate the shifter floor plate, hopefully some kind of console, and from what I understand, the column doesn't need to be changed.....just remove the shifter and replace the column trim with one without the hole? I believe I've read one from an SN95 will work, which I actually may already have somewhere.

Ok, now the parts I'm a little more confused on:
- The spacer/dust shield plate that goes between the engine and trans. This is overlooked in most of the info I've found. I know they are definitely different, especially in regards to the starter hole, but can the auto one be made to work? If not....ugh. The online Ford parts guides don't even show them for manual. Would I need the one for the 98 truck or for the HD trans?

- I've seen conflicting information on the transfer case. I guess the easiest way to clarify is to ask.... will the 98 transfer case from an auto directly attach to the 2011 HD manual?

- Wiring. The harness that went to the auto trans; it seems like some people replace it with one from a manual and others just leave most of it unplugged? That whole sub-harness has been removed with pulling the engine, so if it needs to be replaced completely, I guess it's the same question....98 or ~02+? If I'm not mistaken, I think the rear O2 connector was in that harness as well.
I think I see the clutch switch connector under the dash....it looks like it's plugged into a dummy plug? I've yet to mess with anything up there yet, as it was on the lift when I was pulling the engine and I'm going to need to remove the seat to get decent access anyway.

- ECU. I've not made a decision on this yet. I want to check with one of the local tuners that has done all the mustang stuff here for decades and see if they can make the stock one work since it's known to be good. Has this worked ok for others? Either way since it's a 98, I guess I don't need to worry about PATS or anything.

Sorry if this is long-winded. I'm trying to think everything through, and then hopefully leave some useful info for future searches when it's all sorted. If there's anything I'm overlooking, feel free to chime in. Thanks.

 

[don4331]

Welcome to TRS:

The easiest one: Assumption: The '11 HD transmission is a 4x4 one; in which case, all 1350/1354s transmissions will directly bolt up. There may be issues with driveshafts with 1350 and/or shifter mounts not being tapped for manual shift transfer case, but the splines on the shaft and the bolt pattern were consistent from 1st to last.

PCM: I pretty sure you will get check engine light running automatic transmission PCM with manual. It can be tuned out.

Wiring: You want manual harness for reverse lights. They are both handy and a safety feature. The harness needs to come from 3.0 or 4.0 to have correct connector per my EVTM. There's just 8 wires, but V-6 connector is 16 pins while I-4 one is only 8. It should separate at back of engine.

Engine parts: The flywheel needs to match version of 4.0 (OHV is subtly different from SOHC, if I remember correctly). The clutch setup + hydraulics, pilot bearing, hardware is generic to all M5ODR-1 transmissions.
Spacer/dust shield was probably my biggest PIA when doing M5ODR-2 swap on V-8. Finding one was the long lead item on my swap...

Column shifter: You have to set the shifter to park to get the ignition tumbler to rotate correctly to be able to remove the key. Tripping the module from "Park" to "in gear" works as auxiliary theft deterrent - engine won't start.

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^

The 16 pin plug on the automatic, none of its wires are needed with manual trans, but there is 12v with key on, on 2 or 3 of the wires so they need to be protected from shorting out

The DTR switch on automatic's shift rod wires are needed, well a few of them, thats currently where the 2 wires for Reverse Lights are, and the 2 wires for Neutral switch(for starting)
All 1998 Rangers were wired for manual transmission, so there will be a clutch pedal switch connector above brake pedal, 6 pin straight connector, 4 to 6 wires
It will be plugged in to a "by-pass" connector so these wires could be extended to the DTR switch under the vehicle
Unplug the by pass and plug the connector into the Clutch switch on the new clutch pedal assembly
This will override Neutral switch on DTR
But you still need to deal with 2 Reverse light wires

If you will stick with 4WD electric shift then you also need "neutral" sense wire grounded, or it will not shift to 4Low
If you did the Clutch switch hook up above then you won't need to do that, its also the "neutral" sense ground for 4WD controller

Reverse lights at DTR will be a 12v key on wire, purple/orange, then a Black/Pink wire OUT to tail lights
The manual trans reverse switch connector should have the same wire colors, if not it doesn't matter, its just a switch, when in Reverse the two wire are connected and Reverse bulbs come on

Speedometer won't be an issue since 1998 uses rear ABS sensor and GEM module for speed

Yes, the Block Plate or Separator plate is needed, it prevents the starter motor nose from shifting around, lots of torque there, and the bolts can't hold that tight and starter will "walk" around causing teeth to wear

Yes, you can use 1990-2011 4.0l OHV or SOHC manual trans block plate on a 1998 4.0l, also used in Mustangs with manuals

 

[00t444e]

I would use a 2000 or older 5 speed and get a manual transfer case as well.

 

[Josh B]

I would use a 2000 or older 5 speed and get a manual transfer case as well.

Are those transfer cases totally differemt ?

 

[00t444e]

Are those transfer cases totally differemt ?

No they are all BW 1354s from 91 up.

 

[don4331]

I would use a 2000 or older 5 speed and get a manual transfer case as well.

Why use '00 or older transmission? The newer ones have upgraded components (primarily synchros) and the only difference on housing for HD is an extra bolt hole. OPs choice of newer transmission is a good one.

Are those transfer cases totally differemt ?

The difference between the manual and electric case is:

Manual case has hole in front half for manual shifter and position sensor; Internally, there is plate to shift between 2 & 4wd, and high and low range, shaft and mean spring.​

Electric case hole and mount for electric shifter. Internally, there are disks which shift between 2 & 4wd, and high and low range. Position sensor is on the electric motor.​

​

There are minor differences in outputs - some have CV, others u-joint in front. And there are different yoke possible for different u-joints: 1310, 1330, etc.​

​

I'll look at getting some pictures later.​

 

[00t444e]

Why use '00 or older transmission? The newer ones have upgraded components (primarily synchros) and the only difference on housing for HD is an extra bolt hole. OPs choice of newer transmission is a good one.

The 01 and up ones aren't really that much stronger, and they don't have the bolt holes in the tail housing for the manual shift linkage to bolt to unless it is one from a 02 FX4 or 03 FX4 level 2 which are getting very hard to find. So If you have an 01 and later you have to make your own bracket for the shift linkage to bolt to.

 

[Josh B]

I understand what you're saying Don, don't go to any trouble there, and thanks for explaining

 

[don4331]

The 01 and up ones aren't really that much stronger, and they don't have the bolt holes in the tail housing for the manual shift linkage to bolt to unless it is one from a 02 FX4 or 03 FX4 level 2 which are getting very hard to find. So If you have an 01 and later you have to make your own bracket for the shift linkage to bolt to.

For S&G, I rolled under my daughter's '08 B4000. The transmission tail housing has the bosses, they're just just not threaded. Couple minutes with tap and I could mount manual linkage on her truck. No need to make my own bracket so long as I got the Ford one with transfer case.

 

[00t444e]

For S&G, I rolled under my daughter's '08 B4000. The transmission tail housing has the bosses, they're just just not threaded. Couple minutes with tap and I could mount manual linkage on her truck. No need to make my own bracket so long as I got the Ford one with transfer case.

Is her truck an auto or manual? An auto will have the holes there, a manual won't my 03 certainly doesn't.

 

[ronlp]

Welcome to TRS:

+1 ^^^

Thanks for all the good info guys. I really appreciate it. Things have been busy lately so haven't had much time to mess with it, as it's kind of our 'summer' in AZ, but I did manage to hit 4 yards today....unfortunately not much to show for it.

I found a clean floor plate for the shifter with the little cupholder console, but unfortunately that was the only manual truck I came across. I checked out several 05+ 4.0 Mustangs, but all autos.

Phoenix junkyards are always tough. There are tons of them, but everything gets picked through immediately and most of the vehicles are already pretty terrible with 200-300k miles. They are also mostly in the ghetto over an hour away from me, so it becomes an all day commitment to usually find nothing worthwhile, haha.

That spacer plate is going to definitely be a pita for sure. It doesn't even make much sense to drop the engine in until I find one since I can't do much more without it.

The search will continue......

 

[ronlp]

So, quick update:

This project got pushed aside a few times with work stuff going on, and also I have a lot of cars that are needy, so tending to the easy quick stuff takes precedence.

Anyway, I managed to locate the block spacer plate from the second dealer I tried. It was *really* expensive for a piece of sheet metal, but at that point I was just over it, so I sucked it up and ordered it. p/n 1L5Z-7007-AA 1X (on box) / 1L5E-6A3733-AB (stamped on the plate) in case anyone needs to track one down.

That allowed me to get the engine and trans in, and slowly finish up all the leftover stuff from the rebuild as well as the trans swap. This weekend I finally swapped the pedals and installed the sorry excuse for clutch hydraulics (I'm sorry, I guess it works, but this system is terrible, haha) For now, I just removed the column shifter and left the mechanism 'in park'.

All I'm left with now is that damned wiring harness. I've hit a ton of yards, and what few trucks they have are either autos or stripped-out carcasses.

So based off some of the info above, is it possible to remove the 02 circuit from the auto harness, eliminate the 16 pin connector, and temporarily jump a few circuits to at least get the thing started and broken in? Reverse lights will definitely be wanted at some point, but if the other switch on the trans is just for neutral sensing to shift into 4 low, I'm ok with minding that as I don't remember the last time it was in 4wd, much less low. I don't currently have a clutch switch on it and would prefer to have that deleted anyway, as I'd much rather have a vehicle that I can start in gear if there is a hydraulic failure. (I drove 1000 miles from Austin to Phoenix like this a few years ago in one of my cars, and although a pita, it works in a pinch when you're not finding a slave cyl for a 35 year old car at an Autozone)

It sucks to have come this far and be stuck over a few wires/connectors.

 

[RonD]

Try https://www.car-part.com/

Yes, you can jump the Neutral switch(DTR) for starter motor activation, you can also hijack the 2 reverse light wires
16-pin connector can just be tied up or cut off, there are 2 12volt wires in there so KEY OFF if cutting wires

 

[Josh B]

Hello RonLP, welcome to TRS also
You at least make good sense when asking questions.
I haven't had any trouble finding what slave cylinders I needed at AZ for my 93 4.0 over the 18 years or so that I've had it
It was at 234K when I got it and now it's in high 300s, with no complaints, not too awful far from swapping in a 96 Explorer engine I think will be good for maybe another couple of hundred K