manual hubs vs auto

[michowski]

What is the pro's and the cons to having each setup. Is one better then the other and is it worth upgrading to manual if you have the auto. Im just curious because I read a lot of people going to the manual hubs. Just curious on the differences between the two.
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ultimate fighters

 

[baddis]

What is the pro's and the cons to having each setup. Is one better then the other and is it worth upgrading to manual if you have the auto. Im just curious because I read a lot of people going to the manual hubs. Just curious on the differences between the two.

with auto hubs they will let you down the most when you need them with the manual ones you know they are locked. the only up side to auto hubs is you don't have to get out to lock them in.i have blowen 3 or 4 auto hubs where i have only had 1 stock manual one go bad. (it had a crack you couldn't see to begin with) on this truck it was the first thing i did after i bought it just need to do the manual case now and i am set.

 

[JohnnyO]

The autos are weak and break a lot. With manuals, just lock them in ahead of time if you think you'll need 4wd. You can leave it in 2wd with the hubs locked in then shift into 4wd when you need it.
Late model Rangers and Explorers have hubs that are always locked in anyway.
The factory manual hubs are better than the autos, but either way you're better off switching to Warn manual hubs.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Ford manual hubs are made by Warn, however Warn makes a hub for the rear of a Jeep (they also use the D35 like most early to late 90's RBV's) that is supposed to be alot stronger than the regular ones and will go on to the RBV axle the same as the one specified for the truck. If you go up to parts counter and ask for a Warn hub setup for a 19XX RBV you will get pretty much the same thing as you would have had if your truck came with it, but with a different sticker and grey as opposed to pink or red (depending on age, mine are pink)

If you have vacuum hubs they made a kit to convert them to manual, I am not sure of its availability anymore however.

If you do get manuals, lock them in before you get in trouble, it is amazing the amount of mud that can stick to your boots doing it after fact.

 

[michowski]

well sounds like im going to manual hubs then. Is this everything I need in this kit? http://shop.americanbodyparts.com/buy.php?make_text=ford&ml=rang-s-fs-cab_4wd-008&model_text=ranger&year=1993&part_name=hub_conversion_kit&brand_name=warn&s=1&my=1
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Honda Ruckus

 

[Ranger44]

Here is what you need and by the way manual hubs are the way to go!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WARN-29071-Locking-Hubs-Tool-Conversion-Ranger-Explorer_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33728QQihZ017QQitemZ270161946534QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

This kit even comes with the spindle nut tool. There is a couple write ups in the tech library on how to do this conversion. Good luck.

 

[philzilla]

is it bad for your hubs ( manual) to drive around with them engaged in 2wd for an extended period of time or is it fine for just acouple hours

 

[michowski]

whats the difference between my link and yours? Looks like mine has everything except the tool.
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FT500

 

[Ranger44]

You can drive around with your manual hubs locked and in 2wd. Your axles shafts will spin with your wheels, but it will not hurt them. Gas mileage will drop too. Now don't engage 4wd with the hubs unlocked that will hurt them.

 

[Ranger44]

That link and price is for the spindle nut conversion kit thats the 6 rings in my link. The price of the kit I showed you is pretty good. You can usually find the hubs for about $150-$250 and the spindle nut conversion kit for about $35-$45 bucks. The tool is like $13 bucks from the auto store.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

Now don't engage 4wd with the hubs unlocked that will hurt them.

just wanted to clarify: it hurts your t-case to do this, not your hubs...and only if you do it while the vehicle is in motion when you shift (i use 4-low with the hubs unlocked all the time for moving trailers around the yard or in parking lots).

 

[Ranger44]

Ok.... thanks sludge. I just knew it hurt something to drive(on the street shifting) with it like that.

 

[canyoncritter]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16

do a little reading here, may be able to get the spindle lock nuts conversion for cheaper.......and that ford body parts place is just for the spindle nuts at 55 bucks.....insane..

if you run oversize tires, get ready to learn about wheelbearing's and keeping the lock nuts tight.

the fun part is getting the locknuts tight on themselves(200-250ft lbs) with out crushing your bearings with preload or spining the lock ring tab over on the spindle and cutting the threads to shit or snaping the pin on the inside lock ring.......and once again overloading your bearings...

One stupid trick I have found that helps but dose not cure the problem is to weld build up the tab on the lockring to fit better in the spindle snout key way.
I have pics of this Ill try and find them and post them later....
even with the build up I still have to use a spanner wrech I ground down to fit, to hold the inner locknut while trying to get the outter nuts tight to lock the assmebly.
I also recomend some thread locker of your choice on the lock nuts.
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As for driving with the hubs locked on the street with the t-case in 2wd,no problems at all for the hubs.This acutally puts less wear on the hub bearing,but more wear on everything else.(axle shaft ujoints,front diff etc etc)Also make sure your spindle bearings(there are caged needle bearing's in side the spindle snout that the axle stub shaft's ride on)are in good shape and lubed.as 60mph jaunts dry could cause some problems in theroy.
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If you get manul hubs and want the best of the best of what's out there for the ranger get the jeep hubs.they have a better "hub bearing".This bearing is in use anytime your hubs are unlocked.
heres a link to the tech board with part numbers
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/May04/offroad.htm

ok enuff rambling for me

 

[canyoncritter]

here what I mean by weld build up of the nub on the lock washer.

and here you can see how thenub fits pretty snug,...also if you look in the snout of the spindle you can see the caged needle bearing's I was talking about........