Manual hub lockwasher problem

[Chris_1]

Hi guys, having a problem with the '94 (dana 35) locknuts on the manual hubs.Switched it to manual hubs about 2 1/2 yrs ago.
After adjusting the bearing preload (to specs), we install the lockwasher onto the pin and install the 2nd locknut but can only tighten to about 100 ft lbs - then the inner locknut and locking washer start to turn with the outer. It seems like the locknut is fitting itself into the threads and turning with the outer (everything starts to turn, which won't work because the inners will be way too tight or the outers won't be tight enough).
Inspected the lockwashers, they look perfect, no damage. Bought a brand new Warn set of locknuts and lockwashers - same thing.
Has anyone else encountered this ? What did you do ?
We've thought about (welding) building up the tab on the washer to make it wider or deeper but I'd kind of like to figure out why this is happening _ everything LOOKS to be in perfect condition and this isn't the first time these bearings have been repacked (of course).
So - is this a common thing ? Or have we got some weird kind of problem going on here ?
I would appreciate any input here, as I'm kind of concerned about anyone driving this around with only 100 lbs on the outer locknut.

 

[donsau]

I've never heard of an issue like that before. It almost sounds like your washer inside diameter is to big or your tab isn't long enough. Personally, I would weld the tab longer. Just make sure you got a good weld to make sure it wont break off. You don't want a chunk of steel rolling around in the hub.

 

[Mike92STX]

I had exactly the same issue. I just got new washers from Rock Auto. Mine needed the 1 5/8 inch ID. They call them spindle nut retainers, I didn't check the size on mine and first ordered the spindle washers but they were to small 1 1/2 ID. The part number for the spindle nut retainer is 618040 they are inexpensive less than $2 each.

 

[AgPete139]

^------ That. The retainers are not supposed to turn, and if it is, then it's not doing its job. I'd get a new part. Good luck. And don't crank on the lcoknuts, just the typical preload you stated. It'll burn up the bearings if you don't.

 

[Chris_1]

Just an update in case anybody's got the same issue. We ran a bead on the bottom of the tab - worked like a charm, the outer spindle nuts cranked up to 150 no problem, the inner stayed exactly where it was set.
That said, we also ordered in a different setup - stage 8 X-locks. Looks like a good system, and I've read some good things about them, so we'll see. We all know that bearings really start to add up when they have to be replaced, especially with oversize tires and big offset.
Stage 8's are going to cost $80 a side, but we're hoping to save some of that on bearings (and frustration). Let you know what I think of them when they get here.

 

[Chris_1]

Also ordered some Dana 35 parts from bronco graveyard (.com). Good site, well layed out.

 

[ab_slack]

My recollection is that the inner lock nut has a pin, and then there is a lock washer that goes on top. The lock washer has a bunch of holes and a key which fits in the spindle. After the bearing is seated and inner lock torqued to something very light, it is adjusted so the pin goes in the nearest hole of the lock nut. The pin fixes the nut to the lockwasher and lockwasher is fixed to the spindle. As long as all that is good it should not be possible for the inner nut to turn when the outer is torqed. I've heard of pins breaking.

Maybe that is just on the D28.

 

[AgPete139]

Its the same on the D35. He fixed his problem, Ab.

GJ, Chris. Got a pic of the welded piece?

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