killswitch21
Member
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2017
- Messages
- 36
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 8
- Location
- HTX
- Vehicle Year
- 1990, 2008
- Make / Model
- Ford, Honda
- Engine Size
- 2.9L
- Transmission
- Manual
OK, Let me give a bit of backstory. 1990 Ranger 2.9L 4x4. a while back I replaced my Auto HUBS with Warn manual HUBs, I also did new brakes (rotors, pads, and hoses) (My mistake/lesson learned. I did not replace or properly regrease the wheel bearings)
Fast forward a month later, I'm out driving far from home and I start hearing a squeaking noise from the driver side. I was only like 10 miles from my destination so I tried to make it there, Big mistake, driver side wheel Bearings welded themselves to the spindle and the wheel came off about 1/2 a mile from my destination. Luckily no one was hurt.
I have since learned how to properly pack a bearing, and I replaced the spindle, wheel bearings, bearing seal rotor, pads and brake hose, and hub on the driver side and got the truck back home driving fine.
However I have been very paranoid about the passenger side having a similar failure, so I decided to replace the passenger side wheel bearing and wheel bearing seal as well.
Anyways so As I am reassembling the passenger side, I put the first lock nut with the pin on, tq it to 35ft/lbs, back off 1/2 a turn, than tighten to 16 in\lbs. then I put the tabbed washer on, then the 2nd lock nut, as I try to tq the 2nd lock nut to the recommended 150ft\lbs, I can see the inner locknut and washer begin to spin with the outer locknut. They seem to start spinning at about 80 ft/lbs. Thus by time I get to 150 ft/lbs of tq on the outer locknut, the inner lock locknut is significantly over torqued on the wheel bearings. Am I missing something here? It would seem the tab of the washer isn't long enough to lock it in place. It's even started to mar the spindle threads a bit.
I did not have this problem when I rebuilt the driver side, than again I used a spicer locknut set and it was a brand new spindle on that side. IIRC, I used a warn locknut set when I originally did this. Is the spicer washer that much better? or maybe it had more to do with the brand new spindle on the driver side?
I tried setting the outer locknut just to 120 ft/lbs, but the inner one still spun some and I'm pretty sure its too tight . After a short drive my driver hub is still cool to the touch, where as my passenger one is kinda warm.
Any advice or solutions? I was going to buy a new spicer spindle nut set, But I haven't been able to find one local. And I don't have a welder so I can't weld extra metal to the washer.
I need to drive like 40 highway miles this weekend, so I really need a quick fix and I cant really wait for bronco graveyard to ship a spicer one.
Fast forward a month later, I'm out driving far from home and I start hearing a squeaking noise from the driver side. I was only like 10 miles from my destination so I tried to make it there, Big mistake, driver side wheel Bearings welded themselves to the spindle and the wheel came off about 1/2 a mile from my destination. Luckily no one was hurt.
I have since learned how to properly pack a bearing, and I replaced the spindle, wheel bearings, bearing seal rotor, pads and brake hose, and hub on the driver side and got the truck back home driving fine.
However I have been very paranoid about the passenger side having a similar failure, so I decided to replace the passenger side wheel bearing and wheel bearing seal as well.
Anyways so As I am reassembling the passenger side, I put the first lock nut with the pin on, tq it to 35ft/lbs, back off 1/2 a turn, than tighten to 16 in\lbs. then I put the tabbed washer on, then the 2nd lock nut, as I try to tq the 2nd lock nut to the recommended 150ft\lbs, I can see the inner locknut and washer begin to spin with the outer locknut. They seem to start spinning at about 80 ft/lbs. Thus by time I get to 150 ft/lbs of tq on the outer locknut, the inner lock locknut is significantly over torqued on the wheel bearings. Am I missing something here? It would seem the tab of the washer isn't long enough to lock it in place. It's even started to mar the spindle threads a bit.
I did not have this problem when I rebuilt the driver side, than again I used a spicer locknut set and it was a brand new spindle on that side. IIRC, I used a warn locknut set when I originally did this. Is the spicer washer that much better? or maybe it had more to do with the brand new spindle on the driver side?
I tried setting the outer locknut just to 120 ft/lbs, but the inner one still spun some and I'm pretty sure its too tight . After a short drive my driver hub is still cool to the touch, where as my passenger one is kinda warm.
Any advice or solutions? I was going to buy a new spicer spindle nut set, But I haven't been able to find one local. And I don't have a welder so I can't weld extra metal to the washer.
I need to drive like 40 highway miles this weekend, so I really need a quick fix and I cant really wait for bronco graveyard to ship a spicer one.