M5R2 swap clutch wont dis-engage

[Fiveowen]

Hi, so I’ve got an 88, 5.0 swapped, the trans blew so I began swapping in a 1997 f150 M5R2 in place of the old fw146. I used flywheel and clutch out of a 95, 5.0 f150, the stock master cylinder out of the truck and the slave from a 1992 ford ranger because in that year they came with internal slaves and Mazda transmissions and it has the proper fitting to connect to the 88’ master cylinder…
I’ve got the truck all together now, custom crossmember and driveshaft made but no matter now much I bleed the system I cannot get the clutch to fully disengage. Any ideas? Thank you in advance.

 

[franklin2]

This is a common problem with ALL cars and trucks with a hydraulic clutch. They are very difficult to bleed the air out completely. Sometimes you can get the engine warmed up in neutral. Then shut if off, put it in gear, and then start the engine and drive it. Be careful, but driving it around on hilly and rough roads can help the air bubbles migrate backwards up the line to the clutch master. Use the clutch and shift through the gears, you may find each time you use the clutch it gets better and better.

 

[superj]

i am in the same boat on my old bmw. bleed for a while and now i have pedal feel but still not clutch. i am going to maybe try bleeding some more today and see if i can get any actual clutch movement.

 

[Fiveowen]

i am in the same boat on my old bmw. bleed for a while and now i have pedal feel but still not clutch. i am going to maybe try bleeding some more today and see if i can get any actual clutch movement.

Good luck brother, I’m getting clutch movement but it’s not enough to fully disengage my clutch, I’m unsure whether or not my slave has enough throw

 

[BlackBII]

The master in these trucks are mounted at a downward angle on the firewall and can be a pain to bleed because an air bubble gets trapped in the master. I will typically unbolt the master from the firewall and tilt it upwards, and bleed it by pressing the rod by hand.

 

[Fiveowen]

The master in these trucks are mounted at a downward angle on the firewall and can be a pain to bleed because an air bubble gets trapped in the master. I will typically unbolt the master from the firewall and tilt it upwards, and bleed it by pressing the rod by hand.

Okay thanks I will try this, I’ve also heard some people suggesting to jack the front of the truck up as well to help what do you think?

 

[RobbieD]

The master in these trucks are mounted at a downward angle on the firewall and can be a pain to bleed because an air bubble gets trapped in the master. I will typically unbolt the master from the firewall and tilt it upwards, and bleed it by pressing the rod by hand.

Same here. I pull the driver fender splash guard and it's right there.

 

[superj]

i got the bmw bled the old fashioned way.. i let it sit because i didn't feel like doing it and it started working. so i know the air bubble worked its way somewhere else to hopefully, not come back sometime when i am in traffic or in front of an ambulance or fire truck

 

[franklin2]

i got the bmw bled the old fashioned way.. i let it sit because i didn't feel like doing it and it started working. so i know the air bubble worked its way somewhere else to hopefully, not come back sometime when i am in traffic or in front of an ambulance or fire truck

Air likes to go to the highest point, so if it can, the air will slowly make it's way backward up the clutch hydraulic line into the master cylinder. Driving down the road with curves and bumps and the vibration from the driveline all help shake the bubbles up the line.

 

[superj]

yup, thats what i was hoping it would do and it worked out. i drove that old bmw down to the pier at the end of my road and turned around and came back.

everything works but the cold start injector. i need to figure that out because it takes a long time to start when its cold