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M5OD-R1HD I broke second gear


prow

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Hello everyone. Long time lurker, first time poster. I need some help with my 2002 Ranger 4.0L SOHC 4x4. I believe it has the Mazda M5OD-R1HD.

The problem: I'll keep this simple for now. When I shift into second and hit the gas. Nothing happens. All other gears are engaging fine. I must also note that the shifter does move all the way into second gear position and back out with no resistance or anything blocking or getting stuck. It almost feels like the gear is just not there.

A little backstory: 2nd gear has always been grinding when shifting ever since I bought the truck used. I chalked that up to being a worn syncro or something minor so I've been babying it. The grinding stayed consistent but as time moved on a wobble in the shifter got worse and worse until just last night second gear hooked up for its last time before "disappearing." I was four-wheeling in the snow. I cant say I was easy on it but I dont think I was extreme with my shifts.

What I'm after right now: I'd like to see if anyone can give me some suggestions on what they think happened before I tear into this thing. Unfortunately its my daily driver and I need to reduce down time as much as I can. I limped it to work today w/o 2nd. And I dont want to do that too much for fear of any chunks getting picked up and ruining the rest of the tranny.

Thank you!
 


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BRUTUS_T_HOG

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Probably a stripped shift collar. Won't know until you remove the transmission and pull off the top cover. You might even get lucky and find a bent shift fork
 

wizkid00104

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prow

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Probably a stripped shift collar. Won't know until you remove the transmission and pull off the top cover. You might even get lucky and find a bent shift fork
I'm hoping you're right. Now when you say shift collar you mean the slider that the forks move? I was thinking that too but I figured first gear wouldn't work either.


wizkid00104 said:
This may help when pulling the tranny apart.

http://s128.photobucket.com/user/Vil...ns Teardown/

To minimize down time, I'd suggest picking up another tranny from the junk yard, swap it in and then see what is wrong with the old one. You could then rebuild the old one and re-install it or fix it and sell it get some money back.
Thank you very much! I do want to find a used one but Im discovering this tranny is rare. Can I use a non-HD M5OD-R1? I did some research and see that there are two versions. One has the same gear ratios as the HD and the other is shorter gear ratios. Just not sure if the bolt pattern is the same.

I'll definitely keep you all posted. Thanks again for the help.
 

don4331

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To the best of my knowledge; all M5ODR1s have the same bellhousing (R2 has 2 patterns, one for the 4.9l I-6/5.0l V-8 and one for 4.6l V-8...; M5R2-RKE has very different shifter).

But there are subtle differences:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92909

Just do the reverse...

I'm surprised they are rare in your area - Explorer Sports with 5 speed are dime a dozen in wreckers around here...
 

prow

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I'm surprised they are rare in your area - Explorer Sports with 5 speed are dime a dozen in wreckers around here...
I think I spoke too soon. I was looking for M5OD-R1HD and not the actual part number on the tag on the side of the transmission. $500 for one with 70,000 miles sound reasonable?

Also, I saw in the link you posted that the HD has an extra hole in the bell housing. Is this a reliable way to distinguish between the two? I'd like to make sure I'm getting the right one when I go look at it.
 

don4331

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I stand corrected. Yes, the extra bolt hole identifies it as an HD.

Part that threw me is you can bolt either transmission to either engine...you just have an extra bolt/can't install a bolt depending on which way you are changing.

You must be careful - '02/03 Explorers have the M5R4 which bolts up, has similar ratios but is completely different beast.

$500 for 70k miles is right ball park. I would confirm it shifts into 1-2 (not seized from lack of oil). You should seal the shafts to prevent future leaks before you install as per the article.

Do you have the manual or electronic t-case? Again as mentioned in article adapter housing needs to be correct.
 

prow

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I've got an electronic transfer case so I think I'm good there.

I've been having a lot of trouble bleeding air from my clutch. Even bought a new master cylinder so I'm going to change my slave while I'm down there. Oh and a new clutch pad.

Any tips or pointers there?

...and lastly. Has anyone wrangled one of these out of a truck with torsion bars? I'm not looking forward to it.
 

don4331

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Out isn't the problem; gravity assists with that. Back in is more of an issue - hydraulic jack with transmission adapters makes life easy. Jack with blocks can be made work.

I put the truck up on blocks, removed the driveshafts, undid the wiring/shifter/clutch. Put the jack under, undid the transmission bracket mine drops our from between the torsion bar mounts and skid plate, then unbolted the transmission. There was a little fighting with the exhaust but it came out without having to undo the exhaust manifold bolts...

The automatic in my son's 4x4 was more exciting; it must weight 100 lbs more. Bench pressing the <150lbs of the M5OD & transfer case to line the pins to install is within my ability, the >250lbs of the auto & transfer case isn't...
 

prow

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I ended up swapping in a new-to-me transmission along with a new clutch kit, flywheel, and slave cylinder. Thanks for all the help and pointers guys!

I do plan on tearing into the one I broke but at a latter date. Will update when I get around to it this summer.
 


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