M5OD R1 Rattle


9723

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This is a '97 2.3L with about 167k miles. It's nearing time to put in a new clutch and throw-out bearing. The biggest reason I'm ready to do it tho, is because I'm getting a rattle in the transmission sometimes. Always when idling with the clutch out. When I put the clutch in, the rattle stops. My hope is it's the throw-bearing, considering this TB bearing is always touching the pressure plate, but it's loose or worn out. So it could be vibrating or rattling. So when you put in the clutch, it's then under pressure and not vibrating.

That's my hope.

I'd really like some opinions regarding this. I know there are people here with lots of experience that I don't have.
Thanks.
 


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9723

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ericbphoto

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Patience, please.

Maybe it could be the throw out bearing. But I'm not sure that would really produce a rattling sound.

I would want to try to inspect the clutch for any loose or broken parts. With that many miles, it is probably time for replacement. I wonder if there could be pieces of a broken spring rattling around in there.
 

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Thanks.
Is there something that could be bad inside the trans that would cause a rattle intermittently? It doesn't do it all the time. I would think that's possible, but I'm hoping not at 167k miles. From what I understand, that's not a lot of mileage on this trans and 80% has been on the hwy.

Right now I"m just gathering parts and info. Nothing that wouldn't still be needed if the trans needed to be replaced.

I've got the clutch, self adjusting pressure plate, clutch slave (with boot), flywheel, pilot bearing...and the three plugs on top on the way. I guess I ought to go ahead and get the U-joint for the driveshaft. I might want to have the rear main seal for the engine on hand....not sure about that.

I'm also trying to make my own adapter for my floor jack. ...not sure if that'll work, but so far, I think it'll work.
.
 
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Shran

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Probably is the throwout bearing. Could be something else, heat shield on the exhaust for example, broken off baffle in the muffler.

It's kinda hard to diagnose 4 cylinders sometimes, they are just not the smoothest running engines so sometimes at idle there will be just a tiny bit of vibration somewhere that causes something else to rattle or shake and you get a noise. There is a chance it could be something inside the trans itself but I would consider that to be pretty unlikely.

Sounds like you have a pretty good parts list for your clutch job. 2wd 4 cylinder trucks are a piece of cake.
 

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about the floor jack adapter,,,
if the cup comes out just (loosely) bolt a piece of plywood to it. attach 90 degree shelf supports to keep the tranny
from rolling sideways. you'll need really big washers (or something) on the bottom of the cup holder.
a 2x6 or 2x8 will also work.
 

9723

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Probably is the throwout bearing. Could be something else, heat shield on the exhaust for example, broken off baffle in the muffler.

It's kinda hard to diagnose 4 cylinders sometimes, they are just not the smoothest running engines so sometimes at idle there will be just a tiny bit of vibration somewhere that causes something else to rattle or shake and you get a noise. There is a chance it could be something inside the trans itself but I would consider that to be pretty unlikely.

Sounds like you have a pretty good parts list for your clutch job. 2wd 4 cylinder trucks are a piece of cake.
Thanks, I've been listening to this rattle for a long time, now that I'm putting very few miles on it. Started thinking it was the lash adjusters, then worked it down to the trans....and when I push in the clutch (at idle only) the rattle goes away. Everything sounds normal when driving. The U-joints will have to wait. It's hard to figure out which ones to get and there's no sign they need to be replaced now.

about the floor jack adapter,,,
if the cup comes out just (loosely) bolt a piece of plywood to it. attach 90 degree shelf supports to keep the tranny
from rolling sideways. you'll need really big washers (or something) on the bottom of the cup holder.
a 2x6 or 2x8 will also work.
Plywood is a good idea. I already found an 1/8" steel plate and drilled the big hole thru it. 28mm for my jack and I'll do slots in it for anchoring straps and add small wood blocks (strips) to keep it braced upright, and I got a longer bolt to keep the cup in place if I can. In other words the steel plate bolts down onto the cup. If I don't like it....I'll switch to plywood or lumber.

I'm probably going to use ramps and tripods in front, and only tripods in the rear. I think....I'll only lift the tires about 6in. off the ground.
 
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9723

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2wd 4 cylinder trucks are a piece of cake.
I'm glad you say this, but I'm fairly apprehensive about it. I've never done this before on a truck. You probably have a lot of experience.

Over last winter, I swapped out the 1834cc to a 1797cc engine and trans on my little car (gained 50hp). Transverse tho, very different. I had never done that before either and it went smooth as it could....took nearly 4 months, burr. I just have to make sure everything goes smoothly. I don't want it in my garage this summer for more than 2 weeks, or less hopefully. The biggest thing that slowed me down with my car, was having to order parts I didn't know I'd need. Shipping time costs big delays.....and it was cold. My garage is not connected to my house.
 
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Shran

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I say that because you only have exhaust on the passenger side and no Y pipe to fight like on V6 trucks.

Not to brag but my record for a trans removal and replacement on a 4x4 truck is about one hour and 10 minutes... I started at around 4:10PM and had it back in and almost drivable by 5:20. I say almost because it was my buddy's truck and I let him finish putting the front driveshaft and shifter in. It really helps on V6 trucks like his to have the exhaust loose, that is the #1 thing it gets hung up on.

I don't even use a jack for Ranger manuals anymore, it's easier and a lot faster to just set it on my chest and bench press it into place. Automatics are a different story, quite a bit heavier.
 

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Yeah, you know these vehicles very well. I've had mine since 2001, but have had to do very little work on it. I've put 60k miles on it in 19 years....
 

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a tip for aligning the tranny. get a couple of bolts the same pitch as the bell-engine bolts but longer.
cut the heads off and grind flats at the ends.
put a couple in when installing the tranny to guide it.
 

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a tip for aligning the tranny. get a couple of bolts the same pitch as the bell-engine bolts but longer.
cut the heads off and grind flats at the ends.
put a couple in when installing the tranny to guide it.

Oh, good idea. This is the kind of tip that helps.

Are the expansion plugs at the top metal or rubber? I ordered metal ones, but thought I saw something in the manual about rubber ones....and can they be viewed taking off the shifter boot? I always have a very thin film of trans fluid on my trans.
 
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Shran

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The factory ones are rubber. I always use metal freeze plugs. I think you would need to remove the floor plate as well to see them, or stick your head under the truck and look at the area right behind the shifter... on a 2wd truck they are easy to spot.
 


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