M5OD-R1 advice

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Could just convert it to EPAS....

 

[19Walt93]

If Jiffy lube changed transmission fluid they didn't use Mercon V. One of my former techs got hurt and had to change jobs, he worked as a manager at Jiffy lube for a while and would bring his car back to us for trans services. Jiffy lube had one transmission fluid and they'd dump an additive into it based on the brand of the vehicle, at the time we had 8 different Motorcraft transmission fluids. I'd prefer to see Mercon/dexron used in transmissions and Mercon V should not be used in transfer cases because it doesn't lubricate well enough. I'm not a fan of the Jap 5 speed because I don't like the way they shift, even though I bought a new 04 Ranger with a stick. Putting synthetic fluid in a T5 often causes syncro problems, if it works in the M5od I can't prove it or disprove it from experience.

 

[fixing_franklin]

Could just convert it to EPAS....

That sounds expensive and more complicated than just replacing the pump doesn't it? I mean I know the new pump is probably going to whine, what kind of money and work are we talking here?

 

[19Walt93]

The EPAS kit in Summit is about $1500, my pump doesn't whine that bad.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

My EPAS conversion was $145 or so - 45 for the pump at the JY out of a Volvo, and $100 for the pressure side hose ?

 

[fixing_franklin]

The EPAS kit in Summit is about $1500, my pump doesn't whine that bad.

No way am I putting 1500 in a ford ranger, I love my truck, and if I could get an extra 500 hp out of that pump, I would. But no

 

[fixing_franklin]

My EPAS conversion was $145 or so - 45 for the pump at the JY out of a Volvo, and $100 for the pressure side hose ?

Pressure side hose brand new is like $20, and what is a JY out of a volvo?

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

JY=junkyard

Volvo EPAS Conversion

After the Trail Ride, I realized with the encouragement of @AgPete139 , @Jim Oaks and @bobbywalter that I really need to get this article finished. Posting the incomplete version for review. Want to get it finished up over the next few days. AgPete and @lil_Blue_Ford drove it. They can report...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[fixing_franklin]

JY=junkyard

Volvo EPAS Conversion

After the Trail Ride, I realized with the encouragement of @AgPete139 , @Jim Oaks and @bobbywalter that I really need to get this article finished. Posting the incomplete version for review. Want to get it finished up over the next few days. AgPete and @lil_Blue_Ford drove it. They can report...

www.therangerstation.com

Yeah I think I'll just replace the pump, thanks though.

 

[Shran]

I ended up draining the merconV and using 75w90 synthetic gear lube...............That was almost 1000miles ago

Do not do this.

GL-5 rated gear lube will eat the synchros in your transmission over time. It happens because there is a chemical reaction between sulpur/phosphorus and the bronze synchronizer rings in your transmission. A thousand miles is probably no big deal but you need to drain it and refill with ATF or anything other than gear lube, run it a week or so, and change the fluid again to flush out the remaining gear lube.

GL-4 rated gear lube is OK to use in the older TK and FM transmissions made in the 80's but NOT the M5OD manual trans in our trucks.

I'm not sure where you heard that it's OK to do this but it's simply NOT... you might as well be changing your oil with brake fluid too.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

There was rumor some time ago about full synthetic motor oil, some very light weight variety being used. No idea though. @Dirtman knows a lot about it IIRC.

 

[Shran]

I tried using engine oil. 5w-30 full synthetic worked really well one one high mileage M5OD I had - it shifted FAR smoother and completely eliminated a grinding 1-2 shift. I tried it in other M5ODs I've had over the years and it was no better and no worse. It's just something to try... if you're not having issues with the trans, there's probably no reason to do it.

I will say this, I drained million year old ATF out of one of them, which looked like black sludge. I filled it with engine oil, ran it probably 20k, drained it and pulled the trans for a rebuild... it was sparkling clean inside.

 

[fixing_franklin]

I tried using engine oil. 5w-30 full synthetic worked really well one one high mileage M5OD I had - it shifted FAR smoother and completely eliminated a grinding 1-2 shift. I tried it in other M5ODs I've had over the years and it was no better and no worse. It's just something to try... if you're not having issues with the trans, there's probably no reason to do it.

I will say this, I drained million year old ATF out of one of them, which looked like black sludge. I filled it with engine oil, ran it probably 20k, drained it and pulled the trans for a rebuild... it was sparkling clean inside.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you end up paying for a rebuild?

 

[Shran]

I rebuilt it myself. Had about $300 into it, that was a bearing/synchro kit, a shift fork and a couple gears.

 

[Dirtman]

There was rumor some time ago about full synthetic motor oil, some very light weight variety being used. No idea though. @Dirtman knows a lot about it IIRC.

Oil is slippery.