M5OD-R1 advice

[fixing_franklin]

I've got a 98 2.5l w/ manual 5 speed with 260,000 miles. I've been noticing a weird ticking, I thought to myself that it could be the lifters ticking. So I replaced the oil and the ticking continued. Well one morning I start it up and hear this noise again, when I pressed the clutch pedal down and it stopped, to me it sounds like a typical TO Bearing symptom. But the next morning it didn't affect the noise. I'm wondering if I should do, should I replace the clutch, flywheel, to bearing, essentially the whole set. Or should I just buy a new/reman tranny? Have you guys experienced this problem before? I'm not noticing any difference in the way it shifts or drives.

 

[sgtsandman]

I would drop the transmission and take a look at things first. I'm thinking there is noting wrong with the transmission but the clutch and bearings are whooped.

I would check the condition of the transmission fluid as well. My guess is that it's never been changed. It might be worth changing the fluid first and see what happens with it first.

Do one thing at a time so you can figure out what fixes the issue and what doesn't. Even if you end up changing the fluid, clutch, bearings, and the slave cylinder, it will be cheaper than changing out the transmission. Even if you go the salvage yard route, you will more than likely need to change all those things anyway and be out the additional cost of a transmission that didn't need changed.

That particular transmission tends to be pretty reliable. So the chances of it being bad are pretty slim. Of course, if it is a new to you truck, it's hard to say what kind of treatment the previous owner gave it. If it ends up being an unlikely transmission problem, you can still swap the parts from the old transmission to the new one an not be out any additional cost, just time.

 

[fixing_franklin]

I would drop the transmission and take a look at things first. I'm thinking there is noting wrong with the transmission but the clutch and bearings are whooped.

I would check the condition of the transmission fluid as well. My guess is that it's never been changed. It might be worth changing the fluid first and see what happens with it first.

Do one thing at a time so you can figure out what fixes the issue and what doesn't. Even if you end up changing the fluid, clutch, bearings, and the slave cylinder, it will be cheaper than changing out the transmission. Even if you go the salvage yard route, you will more than likely need to change all those things anyway and be out the additional cost of a transmission that didn't need changed.

That particular transmission tends to be pretty reliable. So the chances of it being bad are pretty slim. Of course, if it is a new to you truck, it's hard to say what kind of treatment the previous owner gave it. If it ends up being an unlikely transmission problem, you can still swap the parts from the old transmission to the new one an not be out any additional cost, just time.

I'm just scared of changing the fluid, I'm sure it's never been changed, this truck was mechanically abused it's whole life, from regular ps fluid instead of atf, to 18 inch rims without a lift kit. I'm worried that changing the fluid might knock something loose and then I'll have to get it rebuilt. I've only replaced one clutch so far in my life and thats not the intimidating part, it's what happens afterwards is what gets me.

 

[sgtsandman]

Changing the fluid shouldn't knock anything loose. The job isn't like an automatic where you have to drop a pan. It's two plugs. One for refilling (break this one loose first) and one for draining. Make sure you get new crush washers first. Also, some crush washers work better than others. Try torquing the plugs to spec. If they leak, snug them down some more. I had to do that with my last fluid change.

 

[fixing_franklin]

Changing the fluid shouldn't knock anything loose. The job isn't like an automatic where you have to drop a pan. It's two plugs. One for refilling (break this one loose first) and one for draining. Make sure you get new crush washers first. Also, some crush washers work better than others. Try torquing the plugs to spec. If they leak, snug them down some more. I had to do that with my last fluid change.

Thank you, that does give me a sense of relief, I really like this truck, I bought it for $150 and it's the best deal I think I'll ever have. I've spent about $500 replacing things like sensors, battery, alternator, filters, ect.

I really need to get my plugs and wires changed soon. I plan on getting either a 87 or F7 rear axle soon, so hopefully I can borrow a shop and get that stuff done in one weekend. I'm hoping the hard work will improve the performance of the 2.5 and make it a great truck.

 

[sgtsandman]

One word of warning on the slave cylinder. Make sure the brands match. The connections between the mater cylinder and the slave cylinder are not all the same. If you have a Mastercraft master and slave, the replacement must be a Mastercraft. Whatever the aftermarket brand is, the same deal. Better to find out ahead of time if you can instead of after everything is torn apart and you are stuck waiting for parts. Also research the bleed procedure. It should be in the tech section of this forum and there are videos on the subject on YouTube.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Nothing to worry about on changing fluid on the M5OD. Pull the drain plug, let it drain, use a siphon gun to refill in the top hole, fill 'till you spill.

There's some spirited debate around these parts on the correct fluid, though.

 

[sgtsandman]

I've been using Mercon V up until this last change. I think I used Castol Synthetic that is Mercon V compatible this last time.

 

[Josh B]

I came to believe Dex/Merc up through 94 and Mercon V after.

Can't remember if the factory plug has a magnet but a magnetic plug is nice to have for somewhat monitoring wear.
Also if you pour the drained fluid off into a larger bucket pour it slowly until near empty and examine any larger debris in the oil.
After draining I'll also poke my finger inside the case to feel for anything loose in there to fish out.
The initial check of my 93 w/230k miles garnered a couple metal pieces which I took to a dealership shop foreman and after conferring with his transmission man said it looked like part of a bearing cage. I was in the process of a 600 mile move(600 each way, made 4 trips pulling loaded truck and trailer) and drove on through it using smooth shifting as possible.
Kept on driving it another 100K over the next 12 years

 

[sgtsandman]

I can't remember if it's magnetic or not either. I think the drain plug is but I'm not sure.

 

[4x4junkie]

2008 was the first year Ranger to call for "Mercon V" fluid in the M5OD.
Anything before '08 gets "Mercon" fluid, which nowadays is labeled "Dex/Merc", or occasionally "Multi-Vehicle ATF" (the bottle will state that it is compatible with applications calling for "Mercon" ATF).

There are reports of Mercon V negatively affecting the shift quality of earlier M5OD transmissions (a friend of mine experienced this as well on his '93 after Jiffy Lube put Mercon V in it).


As for the noise, if the noise went away when you pushed in the clutch, it's not the TO bearing. Most likely it's something inside the trans (the transmission input shaft spins along with the engine while the clutch is out, and stops spinning when the clutch is depressed).

Agreed on the above, check the trans fluid. It should be anything from a bright red color, to a dark brownish if it's been neglected. If it has any noticeable gray or silver color to it (and more than just a small bit of metallic fuzz on the drain plug magnet), chances are a teardown and possible replacement will be in the near future.

 

[Ranger-Roush]

I have a 96 4.0 4x4 5spd that shifted hard after I replaced the clutch, slave& master along with a fluid change. I ended up draining the merconV and using 75w90 synthetic gear lube. The truck has had over 100k on it since and shifts like a dream. I also just purchased an 2004 4.0 4x4 5spd for my winter beater and it was shifting hard as well . Drained the fluid and put 75w140 synthetic in and it too shifts like brand new. That was almost 1000miles ago. Anyway your ticking noise is more than likely a broken spring in your pressure plate. Remove the inspection cover on the bottom of the tranny and rotate the crank around to look inside.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

I have a 96 4.0 4x4 5spd that shifted hard after I replaced the clutch, slave& master along with a fluid change. I ended up draining the merconV and using 75w90 synthetic gear lube. The truck has had over 100k on it since and shifts like a dream. I also just purchased an 2004 4.0 4x4 5spd for my winter beater and it was shifting hard as well . Drained the fluid and put 75w140 synthetic in and it too shifts like brand new. That was almost 1000miles ago. Anyway your ticking noise is more than likely a broken spring in your pressure plate. Remove the inspection cover on the bottom of the tranny and rotate the crank around to look inside.

(mic drop)

 

[Ranger-Roush]

(mic drop)

?

 

[fixing_franklin]

I have a 96 4.0 4x4 5spd that shifted hard after I replaced the clutch, slave& master along with a fluid change. I ended up draining the merconV and using 75w90 synthetic gear lube. The truck has had over 100k on it since and shifts like a dream. I also just purchased an 2004 4.0 4x4 5spd for my winter beater and it was shifting hard as well . Drained the fluid and put 75w140 synthetic in and it too shifts like brand new. That was almost 1000miles ago. Anyway your ticking noise is more than likely a broken spring in your pressure plate. Remove the inspection cover on the bottom of the tranny and rotate the crank around to look inside.

I work at a parts store, which let me tell, parts at cost is this kids dream. My boss came out and checked it out and he thinks it's the power steering pump, which would make sense. It wines, the pulley never screamed but it chirped a couple times, either way, I'll take a good look at both, and that inspection slot is awesome and I forgot about it