M5OD Clutch install & bleeding tips

[Shran]

Got a couple tips for those of you that are or will be replacing a clutch or slave cylinder in a RBV (or any other vehicle with an internal slave, for that matter.)

What we're doing here is filling and pre-bleeding your slave. This allows you to run less fluid through it during the actual bleeding process.

First, once you have everything taken apart and are ready to attach the slave to the trans, put the slave on your bench and remove the bleeder valve. Fit a piece of hose or something to the bleeder fitting and fill the slave. You will need to push the quick connect fitting so it opens up and lets air out and fluid through the slave. I used a 10mm socket. Keep filling through the bleeder fitting until it's full, and tap on the slave cylinder as you do so any air is released.

Now, we will skip ahead to the point where you're installing the trans back in the truck. You will run into an issue where you can't get the trans lined up with the engine and onto the alignment dowels - this is NORMAL because the slave cylinder is all the way OUT at this point.

Take two bellhousing bolts and work the trans into position so that you can get two of them threaded into the bellhousing just a bit.

Next, and this is VERY IMPORTANT - attach a piece of clear tubing, rubber hose, etc to the bleeder valve on the slave. Run it UP into the engine bay or any point above the bleeder valve and into a catch can.

Now, open the bleeder valve 1/2 to 1 turn.

At this point, you can tighten the two bellhousing bolts you threaded in earlier and suck the trans to the engine. Go slow and alternate between bolts so it lines up with the alignment dowels evenly.

Once you have both bolts tight, CLOSE the bleeder valve on the slave and THEN remove the catch can and tubing.

After that, assemble everything else and attach the clutch hydraulic hose to the slave.

I am assuming that your master cylinder has been 100% bled at this point, and your master cylinder reservoir is 3/4 to completely full, so reattach your hose to the slave bleeder valve. Open the bleeder and let fluid run out until your reservoir is at the proper level.

Your slave is now bled and your clutch should be working properly.

The advantage of using this method is simply just because it's easier and requires less waste fluid than the standard gravity bleeding method with a dry slave. It also eliminates any chance of air in the slave at any time because you force fluid back out of the already full slave when you suck the engine and trans together with the bellhousing bolts.

Hope this helps, I've used a few different tactics over the years and this one worked the best when I replaced my clutch and slave cylinder last weekend.

 

[bobbywalter]

the variation on that is to pop the new slave apart and fill it, pop the big oring back in and bleed it back enough to pop the tob back on and finish bleeding it upside down most of the way back...working the line and bleeder so they are thhe high point obviously..

watch careful on the pump up so you dont run under 3/4 in the res and your good.


i have taken the time to do that and it works real good, but often i forget and push from the top with air on the seal.

usually allows the trans to go right to the block.