LR upper shock mount

[Andy D]

Has torn loose from the frame. What is the best way to fix? Buy a new mount ? The piece on the shock is rusted into nothing. Shocks look shot too. Not looking at a road machine here.

 

[adsm08]

Got pics?

 

[pjtoledo]

if the frame is still good, NAPA lists a mount for $43.59. I'm sure there are other sources.

 

[Andy D]

I took a closer look the other day. The end of the mount rotted off because of its construction. The bracket looks to be a bolt on. That part of the frame is good. Forward where the tank mounts is a different story, I've sawzalled off all the mushy spots and I'm fish plating a piece that is 5 3/4 X 3 X1/8 to the good parts.

 

[AllanD]

Rock Auto has them and UPS will bring it right to your door...

There are three rivets you'll have to Cut/Grind/Drill, but replacing it is pretty straight forward...


BTW, if your left side bracket has failed but BOTH (Both upper brackets are the same)

Because it is USUALLY the Right side that fails first....

So If the left has failed the right has either already been replaced OR Is ABOUT TO FAIL

Buying them from Rock Auto they come with the bolts needed o mount them

AD

 

[Andy D]

Thank you Allan D. I am busy patching the frame. The bed is off, but I put a piece of plywood across to hold tools. So its buried. But I did see the 3 rivets. I've drilled about 20 of them so far.

 

[AllanD]

At this point my Ranger has been up on jack-stands since early November waiting for me to get motivated into reassembling it... after pulling the trans to replace a failed clutch.

 

[Andy D]

I try to spend a little time each day on the Rat. It is nosed into a leaky storage tent. Gotta be at least that long. I have sawzalled out the mushy lower flange on the left front frame rail from the front leaf spring hangerto a point 2 feet forward of the LR cab support. I bent up a patch to fish plate onto the web. I have the rear wheels up on 12" of blocking and the ground is carpeted with carpet left overs. I have 4 drills set up to drill a 1/2 rivet head. I finally finished putting the frame back together with Bolts ranging from 1/4 to 1/2 . I also used a few 1/4 structural rivets. I got a box of 25 of the rivets. The 16" rivet tool I bought at Harbor Freight can barely handle the 1/4s. They pull a solid core through the normally hollow rivet while expanding it. Probably designed for a power tool. To day, I cut a 2' X 1 1/4 strip of galvy and used regular 1/8 steel rivets to strengthen the front tank strap. The shock mount will be dealt with after I get the tank back in. It is gonna be a "yard" Rat .

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Sounds like you have a handle on it.
Sooo, what's the LR stand for in the title? Nothing I come up with makes sense....

 

[AzLizard]

Sounds like you have a handle on it.
Sooo, what's the LR stand for in the title? Nothing I come up with makes sense....

Um, maybe?
Left Rear

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

duh...

 

[Mark_88]

If you can get at them with a grinder, I replaced all my leaf spring hangers last year and found grinding them off was much easier than drilling.

I had the box off to so that made the job much easier...

 

[97RangerXLT]

What Mark Said.

I found that in some cases a sawzall would be quicker to get the head off and then grind it flush with the frame/ hanger with an angle grinder, then punch the rivet out with a large punch and 3 lb mini sledge. Some of the rivets do not let you get the sawzall in tho...

AJ

 

[ratdude747]

If you can get at them with a grinder, I replaced all my leaf spring hangers last year and found grinding them off was much easier than drilling.

I had the box off to so that made the job much easier...

I personally do a bit of both. I start with a drill working up to 1/2" to drill away as much of the head as possible (faster than my grinder) and swapping to the grinder/chisel/punch to finish them off. With the 1/2" drill I go from multiple angles (same hole) to get more material than just a straight drill (as these rivets don't exactly have a drill-able center).