Lowered 96 ranger questions

[Nitrodude]

Okay I have a few more questions about my ranger.
I've never lowered a vehicle before but I've been doing a lot of reading on this.

My ranger was lowered by its previous owner.
Looking at it, it looks like the rear was lowered with just a flip kit. (Plus I have a huge system in the back that's about 500 pounds that dropped it a little lower)
And the front-I can't tell.
I don't believe it was lowered with dream beams (looked under there and they're black and are stamped "heat treated" and I believe "do not bend" if I remember right.
Didn't see any other markings.
Springs don't look cut but I could be wrong
I definitely have a bit of camber up front though.

So my questions are
1.) how do I know how the front was lowered?
2.) my rear axle, when torqueing lug nuts on my wheels I noticed the axle tilts forward/backward with a bit of a clunk-but the u bolts are tight. Any way to fix this?
3.) my front end is 1-2" too high compared to the back-what's the cheapest way to lower it even with my rear end?
4.) lastly my previous question-best budget shocks for my degree of drop ranger and were to order?

And one last kind of unrelated question.
I just bought 20" rims with 225/35/20 tires (not sure offset-measures about 6-7" from the hub to lip)
the fronts rub just towards the front on the bar.
Can I get a small spacer and fix that?

 

[JoshT]

Got any pictures?

Those definitely ain't dream beams, those are round and have no markings on them. I've seen those markings on factory beams, so most likely that's what they are. Sounds like your front end has been lowered by some method dealing with the springs, they could have been cut or heated to achieve the drop.

As to your questions, can't promise they are the answers you want.

1) This is one of those times where a picture is worth a thousand words.

2) Tilting? Do you mean is rolling, as in the whole truck rolls a little? Could just be play in the drive line. I think all my Rangers have done the same to an extent. Easy fix set the parking brake before torquing the lugs.

3) Raise your rear end. I can only make an assumption about what you have now based on what you have said, and my suggestion is based on that assumption. Honestly the cheapest way is to remove the axle flip and do the shackle flip in the tech library, that should put your truck about level. If you want drop the front to be level with the rear then you will be starting over on the front. That means installing DJM Dream Beams, and possibly lowering springs. Raising the front is the cheaper option.

4) Went and looked at your previous thread. Still can't tell you what you might need because don't know what you've got, and just because it would fit now doesn't mean that it will once leveled where you want it.

Although I am a member of most Ranger sites (and like most of them) I hate to send people to a different one for answers, but sometimes I've got to do it. Here's my suggestion. Get pictures. Pictures of the truck overall sitting on level ground, and pictures of the suspension (front and rear). Once you've got pictures post them in this thread in case anyone here can help you. Once that's done go join rangerpowersports.com. RPS is where most of the lowered Ranger crowd hang out, and if anyone can help you get the truck straightened out they can. Ask about it in the static drop forum, and be sure to include your pictures.

 

[Nitrodude]

Got any pictures?

Those definitely ain't dream beams, those are round and have no markings on them. I've seen those markings on factory beams, so most likely that's what they are. Sounds like your front end has been lowered by some method dealing with the springs, they could have been cut or heated to achieve the drop.

As to your questions, can't promise they are the answers you want.

1) This is one of those times where a picture is worth a thousand words.

2) Tilting? Do you mean is rolling, as in the whole truck rolls a little? Could just be play in the drive line. I think all my Rangers have done the same to an extent. Easy fix set the parking brake before torquing the lugs.

3) Raise your rear end. I can only make an assumption about what you have now based on what you have said, and my suggestion is based on that assumption. Honestly the cheapest way is to remove the axle flip and do the shackle flip in the tech library, that should put your truck about level. If you want drop the front to be level with the rear then you will be starting over on the front. That means installing DJM Dream Beams, and possibly lowering springs. Raising the front is the cheaper option.

4) Went and looked at your previous thread. Still can't tell you what you might need because don't know what you've got, and just because it would fit now doesn't mean that it will once leveled where you want it.

Although I am a member of most Ranger sites (and like most of them) I hate to send people to a different one for answers, but sometimes I've got to do it. Here's my suggestion. Get pictures. Pictures of the truck overall sitting on level ground, and pictures of the suspension (front and rear). Once you've got pictures post them in this thread in case anyone here can help you. Once that's done go join rangerpowersports.com. RPS is where most of the lowered Ranger crowd hang out, and if anyone can help you get the truck straightened out they can. Ask about it in the static drop forum, and be sure to include your pictures.

Thabks for the reply!
Ill get some pics later today of everything.
As far as question 2.) no I don't mean the truck rolls-I mean the axle rotates on the leaf pack like its loose. Only a little bit but enough to notice it.

As far as raising the back end-I though of that since I'm sure it would ride a lot better but then I would have a pretty big gap in my wheel wells and I think I'd rather just lower the front to match (although I really don't want to pay the $ to LOL)

 

[JoshT]

Not as large of a gap as you think, and it is too large Chevy lifting shackles can be installed for an extra 1-2" drop. Like I said get pics of everything then we'll have a better idea of what's been done.

Yeah the axle shouldn't rotate like that. Once again maybe we can figure something out with the pictures. Sounds like the PO didn't know what they were doing when they lowered it.

 

[Nitrodude]

Here's a couple pics I have on my phone of it as a whole. Havnt had a chance to grab detailed pics.

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[Nitrodude]

Alright here we go.

Rear end

Front end

And a new one. What the hell is this blue plug hanging down?

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[JoshT]

The rear is definitely flipped, and the spring pack looks stock. It's not a standard flip kit, looks like they added new springs perches. Can't tell from the pictures but are they welded on good? The u-bolts also look like they may be a little loose, seeing a little light between the perch and springs in the first picture of the second post. If they are not welded, or the bolts are a little loose, that could be the cause of the axle moving. As it sits your rear is down about 4" from stock. I think some people use Nissan Hardbody shocks, but I can't tell you any more about it than that.

The front definitely has stock beams. Looks like drop springs or cut coils, but I can't tell which. To really get any lower you need to go to Dream Beams. Dream beams are good for 3" with stock springs, not sure how low it would sit withe the current springs. With just the dream beams and stock springs you can still run stock length shocks up front. Can't tell you what to use for shocks with drop beams and drop springs. You may be able to get away with stock shocks if you don't use more than 2" drop springs with the beams, but I really don't know.

If I bought you truck and didn't want to raise the back this is what I'd do. Check over that rear suspension, make sure everything is good and tight. Make sure all the welds are good. Get a set of DJM Dream Beams for the front and see how it sits with your springs. If too low and pick up a set of stock springs, and do a little coil cutting to get it to the height you want. If you use drop springs or cut springs with the beams you'll probably need to get some adjustable camber bushings to have it aligned, they are available at NAPA.

Also check your bump stop clearance, if they are close to hitting different shocks may not matter.

 

[Nitrodude]

Bump stop looks cut on passenger side rear and I don't see any driver side rear.

Ill go through and retorque the u bolts. Not sure if the perches were welded or not didn't look close enough.

I doubt the previous owner paid the $$ for drop springs (by lookin at all the rest of the ghetto work he did to the truck...)
Can't blame him though-the $350 for the drop beams is killing me already lol. Ill have to hold off a little bit to get those.
Really need the rear shocks more then anything, this truck bounces EVERYWHERE over bumps.

 

[stmitch]

What are all of the zip ties for under the rear?

Josh has given you good advice. Nothing to add.

 

[JoshT]

Ill go through and retorque the u bolts. Not sure if the perches were welded or not didn't look close enough.

I doubt the previous owner paid the $$ for drop springs (by lookin at all the rest of the ghetto work he did to the truck...)
Can't blame him though-the $350 for the drop beams is killing me already lol. Ill have to hold off a little bit to get those.
Really need the rear shocks more then anything, this truck bounces EVERYWHERE over bumps.

Check those perches. If he had used drop brackets welding wouldn't be required since they touch the stock perches. Since he added new perches no matter how much you tighten the u-bolts it may rotate under stress if they aren't welded to the axle. As mentioned I know some people use Nissan Hard Body shocks, but I can't tell you any year or anything like that since I haven't used them myself.

Gotta pay to play. That's why I said above that your cheapest option is to raise the rear. Keep an eye on the classifieds here and at RPS people occasionally sell used dream beams for a decent price, and replacement pivot bushings are cheap from DJM. I upgraded my '86 (work in progress) to 95+ suspension components. For $350 I bought a complete front suspension including dream beams, 2" drop coils, camber bushings, and rear flip brackets. There are deals out there, just got to be patient.

What are all of the zip ties for under the rear?

I was wandering about that myself. That and the brake line routing on the rear axle. IMO I'd redo that hardline on the pass side ASAP. Being routed through the frame looks like a brake failure waiting to happen.

Looking at those pics again, I think that your spring plates are installed wrong. IIRC the w shape is supposed to be away from the spring if that makes any sense. If the weather is clear after work tomorrow I'll look under my trucks and try to get a pic.

 

[Nitrodude]

Can't tell-what's wrong with the brake lines?

Zip ties are from the previous owner again....
There was about 50' of random cut wires runnin front to back..some hooked up straight to battery 12v+ and just cut off dangling under the bed.

Believe he had some neon lights or something of those lines.
Havnt got around to crawling way under to get the zip ties cut off lol.

 

[JoshT]

It's obvious the PO modified/replaced some brake lines, take a look at this pic.

Look all the way to the right and follow the brake line. See where it goes through a hole in the frame? That's not a good thing. Every time the axle moves that line is going to chaff against the frame right there, eventually wearing a hole in the line. Needs to be disconnected and rerouted (or get replaced with shorter line) so that it follows along the axle, past the frame, then up to the brake. You'd also need to bleed the brakes after doing it.

We all get bit by the PO bug. At least you won't have to get a new engine. That's what I'm currently facing on my 99. Among other things I've had to fix, the PO obviously let it overheat bad at some point. Since I bought it in '06 with 90K miles, I haven't been able to keep a set of head gaskets on it. Truck just hit 180K, I'm tired of replacing head gaskets, and I suspect a deck issue so motor is getting rebuilt.

 

[Nitrodude]

I looked at that and I believe it's the emergency brake cable-not 100% sure though ill double check when the sun comes up.

EDIT: Nevermind you are right-that's the brake line!
What's the best way to reroute it?
I've never messed with hard lines before-but I'll start googling


That does suck with your engine issues-sorry to hear.
Mines not 100% perfect (acts like its about to doe but only when first started or after sitting a few hours)
But only has 70k original miles and runs pretty good other then that.

 

[Redneckryder]

Ok...Little late, but my .02 cents.....

The rocking axle....I have an idea. I see daylight between pad and spring on one side, not the other. Seeing the half-assed way he did things, I am guessing the perches are probably a couple degrees off each other. You might want to check that out....