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Low profile, locked hub possibility?


00t444e

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How does it make the disconnect when needed in full-time, then? Is it like an auto locker differential? Pops in and out of lock as necessary?
No front axle disconnect needed, vehicles that came with the NP242 have a front axle that turns all the time. Full time 4x4 in the NP242 uses a planetary gear that is a constant torque split 48% to the front 52% to the rear.
 


lil_Blue_Ford

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Ok, real quick because I don’t have time right now…

98/99 Rangers used PVH hubs which was ok for 4x4. Not for AWD. All of the AWD RBVs use a live front axle. All 98+ used CV front axleshafts to limit binding and handle higher RPM than U-joints. That’s the front end style for a reliable AWD.

The TTB stuff has a tendency to bind even in off-road situations in 4x4. I wouldn’t even consider trying to use it in an AWD application, you are just begging to grenade something. The D-28 is weak even run in stock form and the 35 is stronger, but I’ve still destroyed it with my choptop even with new front joints and full circle clips. Plus they really aren’t recommended for high speed use.

Also, I don’t believe anyone makes anything other than regular manual hubs for the TTB and even those are getting scarce
 

00t444e

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Ok, real quick because I don’t have time right now…

98/99 Rangers used PVH hubs which was ok for 4x4. Not for AWD. All of the AWD RBVs use a live front axle. All 98+ used CV front axleshafts to limit binding and handle higher RPM than U-joints. That’s the front end style for a reliable AWD.

The TTB stuff has a tendency to bind even in off-road situations in 4x4. I wouldn’t even consider trying to use it in an AWD application, you are just begging to grenade something. The D-28 is weak even run in stock form and the 35 is stronger, but I’ve still destroyed it with my choptop even with new front joints and full circle clips. Plus they really aren’t recommended for high speed use.

Also, I don’t believe anyone makes anything other than regular manual hubs for the TTB and even those are getting scarce
Jeeps that came with the NP242 transfer case had a solid front axle with U joints and they didn't have any issues with binding in full time 4x4. I don't know why the Dana 35 TTB would be any different.
 

kodogtwh

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Jeeps that came with the NP242 transfer case had a solid front axle with U joints and they didn't have any issues with binding in full time 4x4. I don't know why the Dana 35 TTB would be any different.
What's the actual mechanism like? Is it a ratio thing? A slight gearing difference between the front & rear? I'll have to do research on it, because if you say a full time 4x4 case would be a better choice than an AWD case for my strange application, I might take it into consideration. Especially if it came on some jeeps; there might actually be some aftermarket support & parts availability.

And after a quick lookup, it seems like it still locks the front & rear together, with no differential action, but with a small gear ratio difference. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
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Eddo Rogue

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My TTB binds pretty bad, corrective steering at spirited speeds in 4hi would definitely grenade something
 

00t444e

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What's the actual mechanism like? Is it a ratio thing? A slight gearing difference between the front & rear? I'll have to do research on it, because if you say a full time 4x4 case would be a better choice than an AWD case for my strange application, I might take it into consideration. Especially if it came on some jeeps; there might actually be some aftermarket support & parts availability.

And after a quick lookup, it seems like it still locks the front & rear together, with no differential action, but with a small gear ratio difference. Correct me if I'm wrong.
No have to have the same gear ratio in both axles. Part time 4x4 in the NP242 locks the front and rear driveshafts together just like it does in the Ranger 4x4. Full time 4x4 uses a planetary gear set in the transfer case that acts just like a differential in your axle and allows the front and rear driveshafts to spin at different speeds so you don"t get binding when turning. Also has 2wd for doing burnouts and saving fuel when you don't need 4x4.
 

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Jeeps that came with the NP242 transfer case had a solid front axle with U joints and they didn't have any issues with binding in full time 4x4. I don't know why the Dana 35 TTB would be any different.
TTB is an entirely different animal than a straight axle. Much more complicated geometry to everything. I didn’t bother to mention straight axle because for rally driving or whatever, you don’t want a straight axle, you want IFS fronts for handling. Granted you can use a straight axle and it would work, but racing is where independent front suspension shines. Be it TTB or a more modern style. I certainly wouldn’t worry as much about binding with a straight axle as opposed to TTB in AWD use.
 

00t444e

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TTB is an entirely different animal than a straight axle. Much more complicated geometry to everything. I didn’t bother to mention straight axle because for rally driving or whatever, you don’t want a straight axle, you want IFS fronts for handling. Granted you can use a straight axle and it would work, but racing is where independent front suspension shines. Be it TTB or a more modern style. I certainly wouldn’t worry as much about binding with a straight axle as opposed to TTB in AWD use.
Have you tried taking the rear driveshaft out and drving with it in 4x4? That would tell you if it would bind up in full time 4x4 or not. All 4x4s will have binding in part time 4x4 no matter if its a straight axle, IFS, TTB, U joints or CVs.
 

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FWIW…

I‘m currently building my 00 green Ranger as a street toy. Did the 5.0 swap with the automatic and AWD case. Live front axle with CVs. Not the first time I’ve done this (built one with dad, for dad several years back). Easiest way to get a slick truck that will haul. I’m taking mine a couple steps beyond dad’s though. Got the Explorer disk brake 8.8 in it, headers, and a couple other tweaks. With the AWD, it will just go, no hunting for traction.
 

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Have you tried taking the rear driveshaft out and drving with it in 4x4? That would tell you if it would bind up in full time 4x4 or not. All 4x4s will have binding in part time 4x4 no matter if its a straight axle, IFS, TTB, U joints or CVs.
Yes. And YES!

Twice I have had to drive my 95 F-150 home on the front axle. D-44 TTB. Both times from grenading a rear U-joint. VERY unpleasant handling. It hops and binds and anything over 55 wants to start a death wobble.
 

00t444e

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FWIW…

I‘m currently building my 00 green Ranger as a street toy. Did the 5.0 swap with the automatic and AWD case. Live front axle with CVs. Not the first time I’ve done this (built one with dad, for dad several years back). Easiest way to get a slick truck that will haul. I’m taking mine a couple steps beyond dad’s though. Got the Explorer disk brake 8.8 in it, headers, and a couple other tweaks. With the AWD, it will just go, no hunting for traction.
I thought about doing the 5.0 swap on mine but I certainly don't want a crappy auto or AWD transfer case. What are my options if I want a 5 speed and regular manual shift part time transfer case?
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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I thought about doing the 5.0 swap on mine but I certainly don't want a crappy auto or AWD transfer case. What are my options if I want a 5 speed and regular manual shift part time transfer case?
5 speed would be really kinda any Ford with the Small Block pattern, which would be from a 300 or 302. Supposedly some 351s and someone said there was the 4.6 or something. Most of them would probably be M5OD. F-250s and up had ZF5 but those are a bit on the bulky side. Not too familiar with the T-case options but I did hear someone mention there’s a Jeep case that can be made to work that has 2wd, 4x4, 4 low, and AWD settings.

I have a bad hip. Unfortunately it’s my left one. As much as I prefer manuals, autos are easier to drive. Shift kits and valve body work is pure gold for autos. I went through the A4LD on my 92 and did nearly everything that you can do to the valve body. Adjusted the bands as much as the rust let me. 1,000% night and day difference in how it drove. Went from a sluggish, slushy mess to being able to light up both back tires by pressing the gas too hard, with an OHV 4.0.
 

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No have to have the same gear ratio in both axles. Part time 4x4 in the NP242 locks the front and rear driveshafts together just like it does in the Ranger 4x4. Full time 4x4 uses a planetary gear set in the transfer case that acts just like a differential in your axle and allows the front and rear driveshafts to spin at different speeds so you don"t get binding when turning. Also has 2wd for doing burnouts and saving fuel when you don't need 4x4.
Oh, so it's just an open center diff. I come from the land of DSMs so 4x4 terminology passes right through my head. Will definitely think about it, because the aerostar case is set up the same way, with a planetary differential, with the addition of an electronically adjustable clutch setup, to change the power split on the fly. From what you're saying, though, the Jeep case may lack the clutch pack setup, but makes up for it in durability.
 

kodogtwh

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Yes. And YES!

Twice I have had to drive my 95 F-150 home on the front axle. D-44 TTB. Both times from grenading a rear U-joint. VERY unpleasant handling. It hops and binds and anything over 55 wants to start a death wobble.
Might have something wrong in the front end, then. I've driven my TTB ranger home a few times on the front axle, and the only difference is the truck torques the other way under Acceleration. Although if youve got a lift or something the geometry might not be perfect, or maybe the geometry is different for full-size stuff.
 

00t444e

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Oh, so it's just an open center diff. I come from the land of DSMs so 4x4 terminology passes right through my head. Will definitely think about it, because the aerostar case is set up the same way, with a planetary differential, with the addition of an electronically adjustable clutch setup, to change the power split on the fly. From what you're saying, though, the Jeep case may lack the clutch pack setup, but makes up for it in durability.
Yes, stronger and has no clutches to wear out and send clutch material through the rest of the transfer case. You can shift between 2wd, part time 4x4 high and full time 4x4 all on the fly, low range you shift into it just like with any other transfer case.
 

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