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Low buck 5.0 truck


Ryanm21

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Heck yeah. I distinctly remember reading something a few days ago about saving a PCM and PATS module to sell together to someone who needs a new PCM or something. This would make that not necessary as well as how that changes wiring needed to be for swaps. Which kind of brings me back to my question about my truck. Since the PATS is sending a signal to the PCM, since my Explorer PCM is not expecting any PATS signal, I'm worried that the module may somehow "confuse" the PCM by sending it anyway. That's why I asked if I should remove it
Yeah your pcm isn't asking for it so you should have no problem

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fastpakr

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I think that we're jumping the gun on the part about the PCM actually processing the keys. In fact, I think the evidence actually demonstrates the opposite. Ryan kept his existing module which had his keys programmed into it. The module knows his keys are valid and communicates this to the new explorer computer. It's possible the issue all along has been people swapping over the explorer module with the PCM based on faulty info and having to program in their keys accordingly.

My impression of the key programming process based on the messages you see in FORSCAN is that the PCM just asks the module to run functions that are hard coded into it. Forscan communicates with the PCM and gains access to remote modules like the PATS box. You tell Forscan to instruct the module to clear its key inventory then begin the key introduction process. As far as I can tell, the big story here is just that the PCM doesn't actually care which pats module it's connected to. That actually seems like a huge design flaw in the system because anybody could swap in a key cylinder and module with a drill and a few tools. That's the reason I'd never questioned the claim that they were a matched pair.
 

Ryanm21

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My transmitter is not around my ignition cylinder anymore it has the explorer key in it and I use my key to still start the truck, the pcm doesn't even see my key it always sees the explorer key sitting in the transmitter that I removed from around my ignition it is still plugged in just not around the cylinder.

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fastpakr

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More and more interesting.
 

Craig0320

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My transmitter is not around my ignition cylinder anymore it has the explorer key in it and I use my key to still start the truck, the pcm doesn't even see my key it always sees the explorer key sitting in the transmitter that I removed from around my ignition it is still plugged in just not around the cylinder.

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I installed the 2000 explorer pats system into my 98 non-pats ranger during the swap. I did the same thing as you. All of the bundle the box, ring, and key are all mounted by the driver kick panel. I zip tied the explorer key into the transmitter ring and used my original ranger key and ignition to start the truck. You would never know.
 

malachipclover

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Hey guys, it's been quite a while since I've gotten on here. Between finals week at school, moving twice in a week with a vacation out of state in between, and starting my first work term of my co-op I haven't had a whole lot of time lately. I have big news though! Last weekend I was able to go home and work on the truck a bit, and for the first time since late fall 2016, my truck ran! For about 2 seconds anyway... more on that later.

I did end up taking the entire fuel system from the Explorer and transplanting it in to the Ranger. The Explorer is 2-door, and the Ranger is a supercab, so there was a difference in wheelbases. The Ranger tank has all the connections at the front, and the Explorer has all of them at the back. So the Explorer lines end up right at the same spot as the old Ranger one did, however they aren't long enough to connect to the Explorer tank if it's sitting where it wants to be because of the connections being at the back.

I was already planning on just doing something temporary for testing anyway, so this was no big deal. I just slid the tank way forward so it would reach the lines and turned it about 90 degrees so it wouldn't hit one of the frame cross-members. However, the wiring for tank is proving to be a bigger issue. They both use the same style connector. However, when I went to actually connect them, I realized they were keyed differently, and the wiring is slightly different. The Ex has a 7 pin connector, while the Ranger is 8. My guess is the Ex grounds something through the tank body due to its steel construction while the plastic Ranger tank doesn't allow that so I it needs an extra wire for a ground.

So just for testing purposes, I had my girlfriend crank it while I sprayed starter fluid in the intake. Much to my surprise, it fired up without any kind of troubleshooting or headaches. So I'm pretty confident in the rest of the wiring other than the tank, which is awesome because I originally expected the wiring to be the hardest part. I did have to extend the starter wiring, but luckily enough the previous owner left some 4 gauge subwoofer wiring in the Explorer that worked just perfectly in conjunction with a giant butt connector from O'Reilly's.

Before I left to go back to my housing for work, I took a bunch of pictures of the fuel tank connectors to study. I have spent a few nights looking over wiring diagrams and so far I have not been having a whole lot of luck. The coloring is not the same on both, so I know I can't just connect them that easily. What I have determined so far is that pink/black on both is power to fuel pump, and black is fuel pump to ground. Then there are 2 more wires coming out of the fuel pump area of the Explorer tank - a yellow/white and a yellow/black. I assume those are for the fuel level sender, but I don't see those on my diagram. I also don't know how those correspond to the Ranger harness because the colors don't match. Finally, the other 3 wires go into a smaller connector on the opposite side of the tank. I'm guessing it's emissions related, but again I didn't see it on my diagram, and I also didn't think to take a picture of that, I though a picture of the big connectors would be enough to just look at the wire colors and find them on a diagram. So I can't Google a part number until next time I'm there in person again to actually look at it.

If anyone knows any more information that would be great. Either way thanks to everyone on here who has helped me either directly through this thread or indirectly through the wealth of knowledge in the tech library and all the other swap threads. I couldn't have done this without TRS.
 

malachipclover

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Well thanks to an old thread on the Explorer forum that I stumbled upon via Google I found a website and login to some automotive self repair service thing online and it had sooooo many wiring diagrams. I was able to find what I needed for my fuel tank. I drew up a diagram of each connector and all the wire colors on it, then went through the diagrams and identified each wire, then re-pinned the Explorer tank connector to match that of the Ranger. Once I plugged it in, I turned on the key and let it pump for a few seconds, took the key out, then stuck a small object in the bleeder valve in the engine bay next to the intake. After that I tried to crank it and it fired right up! :yahoo:

I still haven't figured out a permanent solution to the fuel lines being too short. I would like to avoid completely running new ones but it looks like that may end up being what I have to do. I also over the weekend hooked the radiator and tranny cooler back up, and was going to put the rear drive shaft on but realized I don't know where the bolts are. Also I noticed something weird. When the original 3.0 blew, I went to put the hazard lights on. For some reason they wouldn't work (despite having used them fine before) the lights and the indicators on the dash would come on but just stay solid. I had hoped that with all the stuff I had replaced to do this swap that this issue would be gone, but it is still happening. Not sure where to proceed on that. Also, it seems that as soon as I plug a battery in, all accessories get power even without a key in the ignition. Finally, my oil pressure gauge never moved. I have no reason to believe that I don't have oil pressure so I'm not alarmed, and I assume it's a wiring issue as are the last two things mentioned. Never the less, progress is coming along good and I really hope I can drive this thing, even if just for a few minutes around the yard, before it starts getting too cold to work on it. The truck is outside and gets worked on outside so not much if anything is going to get done over the winter time
 

Craig0320

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Glad you got it running .Hazard lights cuz because by main multifunction switch on the side of the steering wheel contacts could be where they are not supposed to I've had a problem before. Most likely you're just going to have to bite the bullet and extend the fuel lines or find some proper ones to fit.
 

malachipclover

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How would I go about extending fuel lines? I can't find the male quick connect fittings anywhere. If it was the female fittings I needed I could make do with some rubber line and hose clamps, but those are abundant. I need the male ones so I can "plug in" to the fittings on the end of the factory lines. I have spend several hours searching online every night so far this week and can't seem to find anything that will fit. Am I missing something here or what? The only thing I can find is quick-connect to -06 AN. I really don't want to go that route because I'd rather not spend $50 on 2 feet of line, especially for a setup that is probably never going to push much more than stock power numbers anyway.
 

Craig0320

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Yes you are missing something. The junkyard. Welcome to building a custom truck no matter how little or a lot of effort goes into it. Go to your local junkyard and you will find all the fuel line you need.

Anyone please chime in with a better idea.
 

6gun

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Yes you are missing something. The junkyard. Welcome to building a custom truck no matter how little or a lot of effort goes into it. Go to your local junkyard and you will find all the fuel line you need.

Anyone please chime in with a better idea.
Quoted for being one of the most truthful statements ever made!
 

Craig0320

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Break it right the first time. Fix it better the next time.

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