• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

looking to lower my 98 Ranger but im new to mini trucks


superj

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Oct 1, 2021
Messages
3,110
Reaction score
2,574
Points
113
Location
corpus christi, texas
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
ranger edge
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3 liters of tire smoking power
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
none
Total Drop
none
Tire Size
235s
My credo
Grew up in the 70s, 80s, and 90s
easy way to check is to stand back from the truck and look under the area where the seat is. if there is some big rectangular deals welded there, its torsion. if the under side looks smooth and normal, its coil.

or lay under and look in that spot. if there are some garden hose diameter bars running from under the seat area to the control arm, torsion bars it it
 

Attachments



98_RangerDanger

New Member
Joined
May 2, 2022
Messages
12
Reaction score
7
Points
3
Location
South Carolina
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
You have an XLT, so I'm pretty sure you have coil fronts.
Yes i do, sorry again for being a newbie but one last question. IF i went with the 3" / 4" kit without shocks, i couldnt keep my factory ones correct? i would have to end up getting new shocks anyways? just looking at budget and all
 

stmitch

March 2011 STOTM Winner
MTOTM Winner
2011 Truck of The Year
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
2,283
Reaction score
646
Points
113
Location
Central Indiana
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Manual
Just FYI, if you're getting more than 2" of lowering from the front springs alone, getting the truck aligned can be difficult or impossible. It's probably going to have too much negative camber.

I'd do some drop shocks with any lowering. It will ride better and have appropriate travel rather than constantly bottoming out the shocks and wearing them faster.

Cheap drop kits are fine, but you often end up paying more over the long term. If you run too much negative camber, you'll chew through tires much faster. If you don't buy some new drop shocks, you'll have much less dampening and likely blow your shocks out faster. It's kind of short sighted IMO.

If you're really strapped for cash, you can do a 2" front drop by cutting the stock coil springs, and a 2" rear drop by flipping the stock shackle hangers. It will cost you the price of some cutoff wheels and grade 8 hardware for the back. The stock shackle hangers are often rusted out anyway, so if you need to replace yours, then it's the perfect time to flip them. That would give you a bit of drop for super cheap while you save for a legitimate lowering kit.

If you're going to spring for an actual lowering kit, I'd avoid any 3" front drop spring. You could get 2" drop control arms from DJM, and then add cut factory springs for an additional 1-2" of drop, ending up with 3-4" of front drop, but with quality components that can still be aligned properly.

A small frame notch, or at least cutting down the factory bump stops will help the ride if you're doing an axle flip in the rear.
 

98_RangerDanger

New Member
Joined
May 2, 2022
Messages
12
Reaction score
7
Points
3
Location
South Carolina
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
Thanks so much! i appreciate it and I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR TRUCK! its def an inspiration!!
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Shran
April Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top