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looking to lower my 98 Ranger but im new to mini trucks

98_RangerDanger

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Hey everyone, I’m looking to lower my 98 Ranger but not quite sure what to go with. I don’t want to slam it to the ground but also don’t want to lower it and it looks like nothing has changed. So I have a few questions and would appreciate any info or help since I’m new to the lowering game.

im looking at either 2”/3” , 3”/4” , 3”/5” or 3”/6” kits

1. do I need to smaller shocks for all these kits or just the bigger drops?

2. Some of these kits doesn’t come with drop shackles, do I need those for all or some kits?

3. what drop do these trucks have? This is kinda what I would like.

thanks so much in advance!!!
 

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Ranger850

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don4331

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Hey everyone, I’m looking to lower my 98 Ranger but not quite sure what to go with. I don’t want to slam it to the ground but also don’t want to lower it and it looks like nothing has changed. So I have a few questions and would appreciate any info or help since I’m new to the lowering game.

im looking at either 2”/3” , 3”/4” , 3”/5” or 3”/6” kits

1. do I need to smaller shocks for all these kits or just the bigger drops?

2. Some of these kits doesn’t come with drop shackles, do I need those for all or some kits?

3. what drop do these trucks have? This is kinda what I would like.

thanks so much in advance!!!
We'll look at it this way:
Changing to spring over axle (spring under is the OEM) would lower the rear by 5".​
So, if you:​
a. don't want to drop the rear by that much, you need shackles that actually raise the truck back up. Note: As the axle is in center of spring, and the kits only address the rear shackle, you have to raise the back 2X).​
b. want to drop the rear more, you need shorter shackles. Note: With shorter shackles, you get more "bump steer" (i.e. when you go over a bump in the curve and the back end decides to steer itself) as the axle moves more fore/aft.​
Then you want the front to match the rear:​
2-3" is about all you can lower with just shorter springs - anymore and there isn't enough spring to any travel. You can also do lowering A-arms for 2-3" but it tends to be more expensive, so most kit just swap springs.​
3+ is done with both springs and lower a-arms.​
For most of the kits, you are not changing the bump stops (or at least not a significant amount), so you don't really need shorter shocks. On other hand, you might want shocks with different rates as you have less travel.​
On other hand, if you "c" notch the rear frame to give yourself decent travel, you will need shorter shocks.​
@stmitch 's build: https://www.therangerstation.com/stmitchs-supercharged-3-0l-2000-ford-ranger/
 

98_RangerDanger

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We'll look at it this way:
Changing to spring over axle (spring under is the OEM) would lower the rear by 5".​
So, if you:​
a. don't want to drop the rear by that much, you need shackles that actually raise the truck back up. Note: As the axle is in center of spring, and the kits only address the rear shackle, you have to raise the back 2X).​
b. want to drop the rear more, you need shorter shackles. Note: With shorter shackles, you get more "bump steer" (i.e. when you go over a bump in the curve and the back end decides to steer itself) as the axle moves more fore/aft.​
Then you want the front to match the rear:​
2-3" is about all you can lower with just shorter springs - anymore and there isn't enough spring to any travel. You can also do lowering A-arms for 2-3" but it tends to be more expensive, so most kit just swap springs.​
3+ is done with both springs and lower a-arms.​
For most of the kits, you are not changing the bump stops (or at least not a significant amount), so you don't really need shorter shocks. On other hand, you might want shocks with different rates as you have less travel.​
On other hand, if you "c" notch the rear frame to give yourself decent travel, you will need shorter shocks.​
@stmitch 's build: https://www.therangerstation.com/stmitchs-supercharged-3-0l-2000-ford-ranger/

Thanks so much for the info! Truly Grateful. Here are the kits im looking at:
3" / 4" Drop
It says i need shocks, so that is what confuses me... Then there is this kit that has everything:
3" / 4" Drop with Shocks
And This one without Shackles (which from what you stated would really drop the back lower):
3" / 5" Drop without Shackles

Again thanks so much for your help and also which of these kits you think i should go with?
 

don4331

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I went with option 2*: I still need my truck to do truck stuff, so option 3 was too much of a compromise and I needed new shocks anyways (the originals had been on since '98).

*I took advantage of doing the drop to install an Explorer rear axle with disc brakes, and like @stmitch upgraded to Mustang rotors on the front. (Mustang calipers on the front is significant amount of work, involving a machine shop).
 

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Being this is more of a help type post... I moved it to the 2wd suspension forum.

When you decide to make a build thread for your truck... go ahead and use the mini truck forum.

Carry on gentlemen...
 

98_RangerDanger

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awesome thanks so much for your input. Major Help!
 

superj

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and just to support what is said above, don't go so low that its not comfortable and still able to be used a driver. i made that mistake on a previous car i had and cut and removed some of the strut housing, got shorter struts, coil overs, the whole 9 yards. than the car was so low it couldn't drive over a cigarette pack laying flat. it was so low i couldn't drive it to work anymore or to anywhere that had any kind of driveway ramp. i go caught up in how low could i go that it was not longer fun to drive
 

98_RangerDanger

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Yeah I don’t want to go so low since this is my daily driver to and from work now. Just to give it a little lower stance. So 3” / 4” is prob my lowest I go after researching and looking at others
 

Isk Stark

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Since yours is a 98 I’m not sure if you have the torsion bar fronts or not.

I did the DJM flip kit and DJM shocks, with Belltech 3” springs and Belltech shocks. It was 3/3, but I still wanted it lower. Added 2” lowering blocks and DJM lowering arms. Now sitting at 5/5 and I like it a lot. It’s still driveable, but now my splash guards briefly rub going up my driveway.

I don’t know about your capabilities or equipment availability, but the flip kit would’ve been a lot easier with a lift. If possible, remove the bed as well. Your bed bolts might even snap off due to rust, so be ready if you go that route.

Do you have to have shorter shocks for a 3/3? Probably not, but since I had the front end apart I went ahead and did them because they were still inexpensive back in the good ol’ Trump era.

If you get just the flip kit without shackles it’ll slam you down to 5” and a 3/5 stance will make you look like a gasser which isn’t a bad thing either. Gassers are sweet, but that’s not the look you’re going for.
1D77719D-7720-46DD-B0F1-4AE80D2B76B1.jpeg


Opt for the drop shackles if you want it 3/3.

Here’s mine at 3/3:
02C2512D-A99E-4BF2-AD70-3E2F24FBB34D.jpeg
 
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98_RangerDanger

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Great looking to truck! looks very similar to what i want to do. so prob. going with a 3" F / 4" R
 

superj

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Nice! To bad mine has torsion bars
 

pjtoledo

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what does it mean if you have torsion bars? Are you unable to use those lowering kits?
Rangers 1998-2011 have a choice of coil springs or torsion bars for front suspension. all 4wd have torsion bars. most 2wd have coil springs but some models, like the Edge, have torsion bars.
those kits are for coil spring front suspension Rangers. they do not fit a torsion bar front system.
 

Isk Stark

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