• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Looking for a few more HP on a 3.0 vulcan engine


cbxer55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
1,863
Reaction score
763
Points
113
Location
Midwest City, Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
Is your truck 2wd?

If youre looking for more acceleration the biggest bang for your buck is going to the junkyard and grabbing a 4.10 rear from a 4banger truck.

If its 4wd you're kinda outta luck you'll have to swap the front end too
I had a friend that has a shop put 4.10 gears in my 98 in 2021. Also had him put in one of his custom shift kits for the 4R44. The rear gears and the shift kit really livened it up, it bangs into gear with authority now. Also the 4.10 gears totally change the way it drives. There's some hills here, where it used to back out of OD going up them. Now, it shifts into OD if I have the OD OFF triggered.

I know people here don't go for the CAIs. But I've had a MAC CAI on mine since I bought it. Because the intake tube from the MAF to the TB is a full 3.0 inches, not necked down like the stock one, it revs to hell and gone now. That along with a no muffler exhaust, and I love this truck. Anyway, I have the area under the hood where the filter sits isolated using foam. And two scoops on the hood directly over the filter, with a three inch flex hose running from the grill to the area under the filter. And a scoop on the hood that has 25 1.5 inch holes under it. Drove it 100 miles the other day, non-stop. Opened the hood and the aluminum intake manifold was cold to the touch. Same with the metal
intake tube. Those two items used to get so hot, I swear you could fry an egg on them. Not anymore.

The truck was sitting at a friend's machine shop idling. His dad came in and asked me what size V-8 it had under the hood. When I told him it was just a 3.0, he said "sure sounds like a V-8.

The hood scoop is a Roush Mustang scoop. The side vents are 2013/14 Mustang items.

Going to do a face lift on it this year. Already have a new grill, just needs to be painted (ordered it black, came chrome. Idiots!). Then a new front and rear bumper, and have a friend that paints do the hood and wiper area.

Just turned 185,000 last week.

The CAI. I took it off a few years ago and put the stock intake back on. HATED IT! Where's the beef? Also tried running the open cone filter with the stock necked down intake tube. HATED IT! Where's the beef? Threw the entire stock intake in the Round-Open-Top-File, so I'd never be tempted to put it on again.



00026.JPG
 
Last edited:


2011Supercab

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2021
Messages
399
Reaction score
436
Points
63
Location
Washington
Vehicle Year
2011
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
was looking to relocate the O2 sensors to behind the new single cat location
Can't do that, the placement of the O2 sensors has to be close to the stock location for proper fuel/air mixture.
 

cbxer55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
1,863
Reaction score
763
Points
113
Location
Midwest City, Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
Can't do that, the placement of the O2 sensors has to be close to the stock location for proper fuel/air mixture.
I don't even know if mine work any longer. 25 years old, 185,000+ miles. Never been changed. EVAP and EGR deleted. Catalyst no longer works (can tell by the smell). Truck runs outstandingly awesome and gets over 20 mpg. It's never done better than 17 in all the years I've had it. No CEL either. Monitors are INC, but the CEL is off. Comes on with Key On Engine Off, but doesn't come on when running. Must be haunted or something!
 

superj

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Oct 1, 2021
Messages
3,026
Reaction score
2,500
Points
113
Location
corpus christi, texas
Vehicle Year
2004
Make / Model
ranger edge
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3 liters of tire smoking power
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
none
Total Drop
none
Tire Size
235s
My credo
Grew up in the 70s, 80s, and 90s
My 3.0 makes good power stock. It is a stick though and will spin the tires and is quick from a stop.

It no v8 but its plenty fine for a small truck in town and gets 18 in town
 

L0WnSL0W

New Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2023
Messages
25
Reaction score
15
Points
3
Location
ontario
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
1/2
Tire Size
17" with 235/65/17
My credo
Mild performance, smooth comfy ride
Can't do that, the placement of the O2 sensors has to be close to the stock location for proper fuel/air mixture.
It’s just the 2nd set of sensors that check after the cat to make sure it works to keep CEL off not the primary O2 that are right by the headers that actually make the truck run
 

stmitch

March 2011 STOTM Winner
MTOTM Winner
2011 Truck of The Year
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
2,259
Reaction score
615
Points
113
Location
Central Indiana
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Manual
Hey been on forums for awhile before creating an account and really like your truck and wanted your opinion/recommendations for my 3.0 build following the list you have posted here already unintentionally lol

i'm planning to put a m90 supercharger on my 3.0 (have started some mock ups) just plan to do 5-6lbs but i wanted to do the supporting mods for it prior.

Going to do full exhaust from block back JBA headers, Ypipe w/o cats into a single cat muffler and side exit in front of rear tire. 2.25 or 2.5 diameter. Finding stock replacement Y pipe has been a PITA so was looking to relocate the O2 sensors to behind the new single cat location.
I have a small leak in my Ypipe and i live in the snow belt, rust isnt fun.

Looking into changing the fuel system, mostly the fuel rails so allow for lower S/C mounting. wondering if you had recommendations on fuel rails? or just the the ones from morana. I've priced out all the parts/ hoses i need to go to a 6AN return system with a fuel cell just hung up on the rails.

I don't really want to pull the engine and change cams would you recommend the 1.8 roller rockers ? (my trucks a baby 108k km like 60-70k miles) My over all goal for the truck is comfort with some performance to make the drive feel better.
Besides being a pain, moving the O2's could impact their performance. If they're further from the exhaust ports, they'll take longer to heat up/read properly which will keep your truck in 'open loop' longer. I probably wouldn't mess with it if you can avoid it at all. It's just time, money and hassle that you don't really need to spend for gains that would be pretty limited.

No recommendations on fuel rails. The stock ones are the only ones that I've ever used. Looking at Morana's, I'm not sure they'd save much if any height. The stock rails aren't that much taller than the injectors themselves if you remove the fuel pressure regulator. That M90 will generate some heat if you spin it, so a small intake spacer (like Morana's phenolic piece) to clear the stock fuel rails might not be the worst compromise between simplicity, cost, and performance.
Honestly, the stock fuel system is more than adequate for your plans with a simple pump upgrade. I wouldn't spend the time or money on switching everything out. Drop a Walbro in the stock tank, amke sure you've got large enough injectors and move on to other stuff. Save that time and money for things that actually need to be upgraded, or tires.

I've been happy with the 1.8s. They were installed at the same time as the supercharger and manual transmission, so I can't say how much of an improvement they'd have on their own. But people used to love the 1.7 rockers, and these offer quite a bit more lift. I upgraded to Morana's valve springs at the same time for whatever that's worth. Maybe spending some of the fuel system or O2 money on better springs would be an option?
 

Lefty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
1,632
Reaction score
1,811
Points
113
Location
Saint Paul, MN
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ranger Edge
Transmission
Automatic
I did a number of small things.

1. K&N air filter
2. Dual exhausts
3. Performance chip
4. Seafoam in the gas to clean the injectors
5. Seafoam in the crankcase
6. Seafoam in the engine
7. Switched to all synthetic oil
8. E fan (already mentioned) BTW installed an uprated voltage regulator too
9. Stiffened rear leaf springs to minimize axle wrap

Also, I found some misfire due to old/cracked spark plug wires.

It's not a hot rod, but performance and mileage have been improved.

Twin pipes.jpg


Dual exhausts
 

Lefty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
1,632
Reaction score
1,811
Points
113
Location
Saint Paul, MN
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ranger Edge
Transmission
Automatic
The only one that's a bolt on is the kit made for 01-03 Rangers by Whipple/Ford Racing. They're super rare. Any other form of boost will be custom.

My order of operations for 3.0 performance starts with cheap/easy stuff and gets progressively more in depth and expensive:

1) Anybody looking to improve performance in a Ranger should start with the throttle cable mod/zip tie mod. There's usually some slack in the throttle cable that prevents it from fully opening. It's a super cheap and easy way to resolve that issue if it's present.

2) From there we start to get into Vulcan specific stuff. I always recommend a crank underdrive pulley and e-fan conversion. They're both fairly inexpensive, and both will free up some hp and you'll get improved fuel economy at the same time.

3) If that's not enough, you can start adding intake/exhaust components (depending on the year of your truck). Cost starts to go up with things like headers and quality catback exhaust systems.

4) Roller rockers

5) Port/polish work

6) Full engine builds/boost


http://www.moranav6racing.com/category.html?CategoryID=36 has some options. The hp claims seem pretty optimistic to me, but it's nice to have choices.
 

Lefty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
1,632
Reaction score
1,811
Points
113
Location
Saint Paul, MN
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ranger Edge
Transmission
Automatic
The only one that's a bolt on is the kit made for 01-03 Rangers by Whipple/Ford Racing. They're super rare. Any other form of boost will be custom.

My order of operations for 3.0 performance starts with cheap/easy stuff and gets progressively more in depth and expensive:

1) Anybody looking to improve performance in a Ranger should start with the throttle cable mod/zip tie mod. There's usually some slack in the throttle cable that prevents it from fully opening. It's a super cheap and easy way to resolve that issue if it's present.

2) From there we start to get into Vulcan specific stuff. I always recommend a crank underdrive pulley and e-fan conversion. They're both fairly inexpensive, and both will free up some hp and you'll get improved fuel economy at the same time.

3) If that's not enough, you can start adding intake/exhaust components (depending on the year of your truck). Cost starts to go up with things like headers and quality catback exhaust systems.

4) Roller rockers

5) Port/polish work

6) Full engine builds/boost


http://www.moranav6racing.com/category.html?CategoryID=36 has some options. The hp claims seem pretty optimistic to me, but it's nice to have choices.
Does anyone know of a tutorial on the throttle cable mod/zip tie mod?
 

00t444e

Active Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2018
Messages
317
Reaction score
217
Points
43
Location
Southern OH
Vehicle Year
2003
Make / Model
Ranger ext cab
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
It's called a 3 point slow for a reason. Swap a 4.0 in if you want more power.
 

L0WnSL0W

New Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2023
Messages
25
Reaction score
15
Points
3
Location
ontario
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
1/2
Tire Size
17" with 235/65/17
My credo
Mild performance, smooth comfy ride
Besides being a pain, moving the O2's could impact their performance. If they're further from the exhaust ports, they'll take longer to heat up/read properly which will keep your truck in 'open loop' longer. I probably wouldn't mess with it if you can avoid it at all. It's just time, money and hassle that you don't really need to spend for gains that would be pretty limited.

No recommendations on fuel rails. The stock ones are the only ones that I've ever used. Looking at Morana's, I'm not sure they'd save much if any height. The stock rails aren't that much taller than the injectors themselves if you remove the fuel pressure regulator. That M90 will generate some heat if you spin it, so a small intake spacer (like Morana's phenolic piece) to clear the stock fuel rails might not be the worst compromise between simplicity, cost, and performance.
Honestly, the stock fuel system is more than adequate for your plans with a simple pump upgrade. I wouldn't spend the time or money on switching everything out. Drop a Walbro in the stock tank, amke sure you've got large enough injectors and move on to other stuff. Save that time and money for things that actually need to be upgraded, or tires.

I've been happy with the 1.8s. They were installed at the same time as the supercharger and manual transmission, so I can't say how much of an improvement they'd have on their own. But people used to love the 1.7 rockers, and these offer quite a bit more lift. I upgraded to Morana's valve springs at the same time for whatever that's worth. Maybe spending some of the fuel system or O2 money on better springs would be an option?
The fuel rail has a hose that comes out 2ish inches to do with the returnless regulator. I was going to do a full switch fuel pressure regulator, plus dampener properly switch it to a returnless. already have a fuel cell from another project But if you’re saying not to bother I’ll check to see if I can offset the charger instead of having it centered over top. I was looking at the spacer was thinking of making my own water to air intercooler idk how efficient it would be but I’m guessing some better than none. I started to fab it up and figure it out with parts I had around.
As for injectors i just have the factory 14lbs currently so probably the 19lbs from a mustang a walbro with 1.8 rockers ?
Might wait on the super charger route another year though. Getting my hands on an IRS I want to lower the truck and go coil overs in all 4 corners. So want to spend fab time on that. Might still do the rockers and I’m probably doing the exhaust regardless. I’ll look in more to downstream O2 placement if it matters. Most my research lead me to believe they’re just cat working checks with is the voltage different. My upstream O2 would remain in factory location. Appreciate you taking the time to read through and respond I’ll be doing more reading before the spring.
 

stmitch

March 2011 STOTM Winner
MTOTM Winner
2011 Truck of The Year
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
2,259
Reaction score
615
Points
113
Location
Central Indiana
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Manual
The fuel rail has a hose that comes out 2ish inches to do with the returnless regulator. I was going to do a full switch fuel pressure regulator, plus dampener properly switch it to a returnless. already have a fuel cell from another project But if you’re saying not to bother I’ll check to see if I can offset the charger instead of having it centered over top. I was looking at the spacer was thinking of making my own water to air intercooler idk how efficient it would be but I’m guessing some better than none. I started to fab it up and figure it out with parts I had around.
As for injectors i just have the factory 14lbs currently so probably the 19lbs from a mustang a walbro with 1.8 rockers ?
Might wait on the super charger route another year though. Getting my hands on an IRS I want to lower the truck and go coil overs in all 4 corners. So want to spend fab time on that. Might still do the rockers and I’m probably doing the exhaust regardless. I’ll look in more to downstream O2 placement if it matters. Most my research lead me to believe they’re just cat working checks with is the voltage different. My upstream O2 would remain in factory location. Appreciate you taking the time to read through and respond I’ll be doing more reading before the spring.
Ahh, yeah the solid part of the fuel line that sticks up is actually part of the fuel supply line, and not the rail itself. This pic shows it fairly well, right in line with the intake ports and thermostat housing (which might also be an obstacle):


I can see how you'd want to change that to make supercharger installation easier, but I'd want to measure and check to see clearance on the thermostat housing/upper radiator hose too. No reason to bother with fuel supply line/rails if the thermostat/radiator hose are going to be an issue you can't easily do anything about. You may indeed be better off offsetting the charger than messing with the time and money needed to resolve both of those hurdles.


Is your truck flex fuel or standard? AFAIK, the standard Vulcan had 19lb injectors and the flex fuel had 24lb injectors. If your truck is standard fuel, the flex fuel options should be an easy plug and play solution (assuming you get a proper tune). The 1.8's and other stuff might be helped with larger injectors, and a subsequent tune but it's probably not required. It would be less money to keep the stock injectors/tune if you're just running the 1.8 rollers, and save the other upgrades for when you add boost and they're truly needed.
 

L0WnSL0W

New Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2023
Messages
25
Reaction score
15
Points
3
Location
ontario
Vehicle Year
2007
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
1/2
Tire Size
17" with 235/65/17
My credo
Mild performance, smooth comfy ride
Ahh, yeah the solid part of the fuel line that sticks up is actually part of the fuel supply line, and not the rail itself. This pic shows it fairly well, right in line with the intake ports and thermostat housing (which might also be an obstacle):


I can see how you'd want to change that to make supercharger installation easier, but I'd want to measure and check to see clearance on the thermostat housing/upper radiator hose too. No reason to bother with fuel supply line/rails if the thermostat/radiator hose are going to be an issue you can't easily do anything about. You may indeed be better off offsetting the charger than messing with the time and money needed to resolve both of those hurdles.


Is your truck flex fuel or standard? AFAIK, the standard Vulcan had 19lb injectors and the flex fuel had 24lb injectors. If your truck is standard fuel, the flex fuel options should be an easy plug and play solution (assuming you get a proper tune). The 1.8's and other stuff might be helped with larger injectors, and a subsequent tune but it's probably not required. It would be less money to keep the stock injectors/tune if you're just running the 1.8 rollers, and save the other upgrades for when you add boost and they're truly needed.
Yeah the whipple looks like it mounts upside down. and smaller than the m90 though it’s been awhile since I layed the m90 on top to look at positioning. Is it still running with all the same accessories or is it on a second belt?
the truck is non flex fuel. So it already has 19s? Hmmm most of my reading through said it was 14s and 25.3s for flex. I was looking at the ford racing 24s since those weren’t too expensive too.
But overall exhaust, 1.8s, tune Til boost. Then injectors, pump and retune. I’ll probably gasket match the lower intake as well when I have everything off in prep for a SC.
 

Eddo Rogue

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
3,952
Reaction score
2,472
Points
113
Location
Burbank,CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ranger 4x4
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
OHV
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
skyjacker front leveling kit
Tire Size
31-10.50R15
My credo
Crossed threads are tight threads.
I'd like to thank everybody for your comments and recommendations. I live in Mexico and the altitude where I live really hurts the performance on my Ranger, besides that the 3.0 by nature doesn't seem to develop satisfactory HP. Please excuse my English is not very good though.
Your english is good, just these engines are not. My honest recommendation is just build it
I did a number of small things.

1. K&N air filter
2. Dual exhausts
3. Performance chip
4. Seafoam in the gas to clean the injectors
5. Seafoam in the crankcase
6. Seafoam in the engine
7. Switched to all synthetic oil
8. E fan (already mentioned) BTW installed an uprated voltage regulator too
9. Stiffened rear leaf springs to minimize axle wrap

Also, I found some misfire due to old/cracked spark plug wires.

It's not a hot rod, but performance and mileage have been improved.

View attachment 87903

Dual exhausts
Around here they're called "pipes twice".
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Kirby N.
March Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top