Looking for a clutch. Guidance?


curtis73

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94 B4000.
I've decided that I'm done trying to fix my non-disengaging clutch from the outside. I have bled twice, once traditionally and once with vacuum, and two different shops tried - one did the inverted master cylinder thing, and one used that fancy reverse bleeder thing.

PO had receipts for clutch kit, slave, master, and pilot bushing, but in the 30k or so I've had it, it just keeps getting worse. I sometimes have to turn the engine off to get it in gear.

So if I'm pulling the trans anyway to diagnose things, I see no reason to put it back together with old parts since I can get new stuff cheap.

I use this truck like an F150. 70% of the time it is a DD with a little lumber in the back. The other 30% of the time it's towing 4000 lbs around town in the hills or on the highway always shifting (because 160 hp doesn't like 3500 lbs worth of boat behind it.)

What type and brand of clutch would you get and why? Kevlar? organic? metallic? ceramic?
 


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scotts90ranger

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I haven't looked at the 4.0L options but I really like what I have in my Ranger... I'm running a Centerforce stock replacement friction disc and a weighted pressure plate. On the small clutch I had to buy the two parts separately, there might be a kit for the 4.0L clutch but I've never looked... The weights make it hook hard and hold but the stock replacement disc gives you plenty of feel for drivability.

As for what is going on, sounds like a bad slave cylinder but these clutches don't bleed well... For giggles try something stupid if you haven't, put the pedal to the floor (not running is best, neutral if running) and slip your foot off a few times, if the air is in the master this could help... I've had this work several times for me... To help when assembling new parts, I'm assuming you are planning to replace the master and slave. While the master is out put the clutch line on with it disconnected from the slave, master cylinder in a vise with the reservoir high and the hose hanging low, press on the piston with a screwdriver until it is solid, it is now bled. Now install the master cylinder and if the trans is in push the quick connect into the slave, now bleed the slave, shouldn't be much air if any and all should be above the inlet port of the slave.
 

gaz

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Curtis:

I have used Centerpiece, OEM replacement and Zoom.

1) The Zoom was a Kevlar and it offered the most improvement but was a bear to work
2) an OEM replacement didn't improve anything but had very pleasant manners
3) the Centerforce wasn't an OEM replacement, it did offer more performance and maintained better manners

I would decide based on the trucks's job; if it's a daily moderate distance driver, I would get an OEM Centerforce. If I needed the most possible grip for towing or off road, the Zoom Kevlar would be in the basket.
 

curtis73

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Thank you all for the tips.
I'm also tempted (before I go ripping out a transfer case and transmission) to get a long piece of clear vinyl hose and attach it from the bleeder to the reservoir, keep filling the reservoir as it fills the hose, and just bleed for a half hour. I can watch the vinyl hose for any bubbles, but once I get fluid the whole way through the hose and below the level of the fluid in the reservoir, I can pump the pedal for three days if I want.
If that doesn't do it, sounds like I'll be looking for a centerforce with a weighted pressure plate.

And yes. If I'm going in, it's getting everything. No reason to spend all that time laying on my back in a driveway and then save $40 by not buying one or two parts. A new flywheel is $44. Heck I even have a rear main seal in my shopping cart

I'm not sure what's in it now, but it has a bit more pedal pressure than I think it needs, but this is my first manual B/Ranger so I have nothing to compare it to. The previous owner had the receipt from a shop, so it just said Labor: replace clutch, Parts: clutch kit, master, slave, pilot. It didn't say brand, so it was probably a $69 parts store thing. Pretty sure it said pilot... at least my brain is confident that the pilot was replaced, so I must have seen something.
 
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franklin2

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I suspect you have a problem with the clutch itself. These things over time will self bleed as you drive it. The difficult part is air gets trapped low in the slave, and it's difficult to bleed out the air down low, it wants to naturally rise. If you get most of the air out till you can sort of drive it, then over time the small amount of air left will slowly work it's way up backwards up the line to the master reservoir.

Not getting any better, and being stiff is a sign to me it has a mechanical issue. I don't think most people would have sprung for the more expensive hgh performance clutch that is naturally stiffer.
 

curtis73

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^^ especially if they did it to turn around and sell it
 

scotts90ranger

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The centerforce in my '90 doesn't have a hard pedal.

But if it is somewhat stiff it could just be a bad slave or master... My '97 F350 has a ZF trans with an external slave, I replaced the whole assembly with a new Dorman unit last weekend. The clutch before would barely disengage enough to shift, would grind shifting at times unless you pushed the brake too (shared pivots on those), had a hard pedal, etc. Changed everything now it shifts like a dream with a softer pedal...
 

North Idaho 5.oh

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Kind of late response but I have always had good luck with the LUK clutch kits.
 


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