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Looking at used Rangers


Aviator Guy

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If you have a later model 4.0 SOHC, you shouldn’t have to change the chains at 100K if the preventative maintenance is kept up and good oil is used. After 2004, the guide issue was fixed and if you change the tensioners ever 70K, you shouldn’t have any issues.
So if I just got mine with 320 k km on the clock and she is running good without any rattling should I have to think on changing the tensioners too? Or should I wait at least for any sign or noise to do it? I don’t have any records of her maintenance though
 


DILLARD000

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SportTracJob2
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...320 k km on the clock and she is running good without any rattling
...should I have to think on changing the tensioners too?
...don’t have any records of her maintenance
Umm, a little conversion math 320k Klicks = 200kMiles, should change these every 75k~100k Miles.
If no maintenance record, safely assume OilPressurzed TimingTensioners have never been changed.

If the Tensioners you now have are Ford\MotorCraft, they usually have a date code engraved on outer end.
I believe the last 2 digits are year made; not absolute proof but a hint as to when they were installed.
Clean any crud off, take a snapshot, then zoom in on your PC to get a better look.
Here's a RightRear Tensioner I installed this year 2020, engraved "607.19" which I'm assuming means made June 07 2019?
If yours are engraved "XXX.07" or earlier, they're likely FactoryOE & have never been changed.

Details of my adventure replacing the OilPressurized TimingTensioners on a 2001 V6~4.0L~SOHC.
 
Last edited:

sgtsandman

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So if I just got mine with 320 k km on the clock and she is running good without any rattling should I have to think on changing the tensioners too? Or should I wait at least for any sign or noise to do it? I don’t have any records of her maintenance though
I'm a big believer in preventative maintenance and preventing potential known problems where they are known to exist. Whether that is a right fit for you or not is up to you.

As an example, while not Ranger related, is a similar situation. The Honda 2.0 liter family of engines has a known issue with exhaust valves tightening over time and burning. Depending on the make of the vehicle, the recommended adjustment period varies but the solution remains the same. The Acura owners manual mentions the adjustment interval but the Honda one does not and only mentions that the valves get adjusted if noisy. That is very misleading since a properly adjusted valve train sounds like a sewing machine and the tighter the valve train gets, the quieter it gets. Many people have driven with this engine for a long time and never adjusted the valves and never had a problem. But when the problem occurs, it is at minimum, a $3,000 repair bill.

Looking at the timing chain issue on the SOHC and what is all potentially involved in a repair if things start to go wrong and if you don't have the ability to do the repair yourself, the repair could end up being a pretty high one as well. Would be $3,000? Probably not. It's more of a labor thing than a parts cost thing but there is a lot of work involved in the repair.

So, with all that being said, is $80 plus your time and some coolant replacement every 70,000 miles worth your time or would you rather just run with it? It's not a required or even listed maintenance item in the owner's manual. So, technically, you aren't wrong if you don't do it since Ford never mentioned anything about it. It comes down to you and what you feel you should do.
 

Aviator Guy

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I'm a big believer in preventative maintenance and preventing potential known problems where they are known to exist. Whether that is a right fit for you or not is up to you.

As an example, while not Ranger related, is a similar situation. The Honda 2.0 liter family of engines has a known issue with exhaust valves tightening over time and burning. Depending on the make of the vehicle, the recommended adjustment period varies but the solution remains the same. The Acura owners manual mentions the adjustment interval but the Honda one does not and only mentions that the valves get adjusted if noisy. That is very misleading since a properly adjusted valve train sounds like a sewing machine and the tighter the valve train gets, the quieter it gets. Many people have driven with this engine for a long time and never adjusted the valves and never had a problem. But when the problem occurs, it is at minimum, a $3,000 repair bill.

Looking at the timing chain issue on the SOHC and what is all potentially involved in a repair if things start to go wrong and if you don't have the ability to do the repair yourself, the repair could end up being a pretty high one as well. Would be $3,000? Probably not. It's more of a labor thing than a parts cost thing but there is a lot of work involved in the repair.

So, with all that being said, is $80 plus your time and some coolant replacement every 70,000 miles worth your time or would you rather just run with it? It's not a required or even listed maintenance item in the owner's manual. So, technically, you aren't wrong if you don't do it since Ford never mentioned anything about it. It comes down to you and what you feel you should do.
You’re right is better to do it I didn’t even know it was 80 dollars parts or even 150 dollars it is worth it to do it, at least I know what I have done to the truck.
 

Tavery

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I was in similar situation as OP, Looking for a decent daily driver, no commute.
I bought a 05 Ranger XLT 4.0 Auto, long bed ext. cab 2 door, 4x4 Stock truck 168k, it came with a stack of service records done at Ford Dealer, (Very OCD previous owner)
It runs great, shifts and sounds like new. It has a hard time starting (cranks for a while before catching), putting tires on it soon. fuel economy is poor. the interior is excellent, everything works well except the factory? remote start (iturns over from remote very weak and doesn't start).
I have searched the site for threads on tires to choose (daily driving in Missouri on gravel), fuel economy mods, slow starting on the 4.0. I didn't come up with much.
 

MikeG

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B4000
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2"
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235/75r15
Turn key on and off for about 2 seconds each time, for 3 or 4 cycles. If it fires right up, then the fuel system isn't holding pressure.
 

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